heat problem with bassett??!!
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heat problem with bassett??!!

  1. #1

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    Default heat problem with bassett??!!

    i bought a set of basset on ebay to put on my 24 ft glastron with a 496 stroker whit a close engine compartment, they are water injected but not water jacket, and they are supose to be dry under 2000 rpm as far as i know. The problem is that i have about 30'' long of heavy duty rober exhaust hose to connect the headers to the tips that are above the swiming bord. the guy from the performance shop that dyno the engine said that they gonna melt right off, even at idle , i dont plan to let it idle for long period of time anyway, and he sait that the weep hole will leak fume in the compartment to, what do you guy's think?? is that true??

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    Senior Member crf311's Avatar
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    BIg Big mistake. Injected headers must only be used in OPEN engine bays. Before you go out on the boat REMOVE the engine cover, or prepair for liftoff.

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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    1 word, boom
    Takin it home

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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    You have to lose the cover. At idle though as long as the exhaust tips are submerged, there should be enough water in the rubber exhaust tubes to keep them cool.

    You may want to fabricate a length of stainless tube to take up the majority of the length of rubber hose, and just use the rubber hose to join the stanless extensions to the tips and to the headers themselves.

    If you want to keep the lid, you need a set of high performance manifolds(ie Imco's) or some Lightning Headers.
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

  7. #5
    Senior Member BGMAN's Avatar
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    X3. Remove engine cover. Bassett's thru transom headers have water inlet bungs in the collectors. Your engine discharge water should be entering the pipes through those bungs. With all the engine discharge water going through there it will keep your exhaust hose nice and cool at an idle.

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    if weld shut the weep hole, and i rap them all up with the special fabric to keep the heat down, would it do it?? i'm desperate.. anybody got a set of water jacket headers for sale????

  9. #7
    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BGMAN View Post
    X3. Remove engine cover. Bassett's thru transom headers have water inlet bungs in the collectors. Your engine discharge water should be entering the pipes through those bungs. With all the engine discharge water going through there it will keep your exhaust hose nice and cool at an idle.
    Only if he has the JACKETED Tri-Y headers.

    The standard headers are INJECTED, and, water in them @ idle is asking for reversion, water getting sucked into the cylinders.

    Injected headers will get VERY HOT at idle, especially if idling for an extended time.
    If the exhaust tips are under water at idle, the rubber hoses will be fine, but the rest of the boat is asking for a fire.

    Ditch the hood, or go with JACKETED headers, and they will NOT be cheap.
    Mine were $1200 USED ($1900 or so new). Stainless steel, add almost another Thousand $$.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
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    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Although this would'nt have been my choice and I would recommend against it. If your going to try to run/use these headers in an uncovered/open engine bay and assuming they are water injected thru hull headers they should be plumbed with exit two water sources :#1 to supply water to the injection lines (via a T valve) on acceleration and #2 a "tail pipe" constant water source to keep the tail pipes cool . This (#2) can be accomplished by "splitting" your overboard dump water and regulating a small amount to the tailpipes ahead of the rubber hose connection. If by chance you have a camshaft with duration at *50 exceeding 240 or so you still run the risk of "water reversion" causing a littany of engine issues (water in oil). Do not weld up the "pee holes" there present to allow water drain at low rpm and after shut off. If you need a thru hull plumbing diagram call or email Tom

    ** If you run it without cooling to the Rubber hoses its only a matter of a very short time to burn up the rubber hoses , the ensueing fire would likely be extinguished by the sinking however
    (just pickin Glastron call if we can help )

    This is the "hot" ticket ,can be used in covered or uncovered they dont get hot and they'll handle a lot of HP

  11. #9
    Senior Member moneysucker's Avatar
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    You will have to either go go with the cheapest method and remove your engine cover, or next cheapest, pick up a set of logs here or on Ebay, or get some imco manifolds or the most expensive, pick up a set of jacketed headers.

    Cy
    Vinyl Graphics, Magnetic signs, Reg #s, Boat names, Banners, Boat decals, Etc. Please contact me Via facebook or e-mail [email protected].

  12. #10
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinLowriderSS View Post
    Only if he has the JACKETED Tri-Y headers.

    The standard headers are INJECTED, and, water in them @ idle is asking for reversion, water getting sucked into the cylinders.

    Injected headers will get VERY HOT at idle, especially if idling for an extended time.
    If the exhaust tips are under water at idle, the rubber hoses will be fine, but the rest of the boat is asking for a fire.

    Ditch the hood, or go with JACKETED headers, and they will NOT be cheap.
    Mine were $1200 USED ($1900 or so new). Stainless steel, add almost another Thousand $$.
    Fwiw BGMAN is right(at least as far as my bassetts go) they are injected, plus dump water goes into the collectors. And yes the exaust hose will go south if you don't run water to the collectors. Don't ask me how I know.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    ok, if i run my dump line at the end of the headers to cool the rubber hose down, at that point can i run it with the hatch close or there is still a fire problem, is there a lot of fume comming out of those pee hole?

  14. #12
    Senior Member sleekvino's Avatar
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    Running that type of header under an engine compartment is not a smart choice, you are asking for trouble.
    PORNO RACING INC WHERE ITS "HARD" TO WIN

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    in simple terms, you CANNOT run those headers in an enclosed hatch safely. all the tips mentioned were to use them in an open engine compartment, not a closed. either remove the hatch, or get differant exhaust. its that simple. lives may depend on it.
    Fallbrook, Ca.

  16. #14
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glastron24css View Post
    ok, if i run my dump line at the end of the headers to cool the rubber hose down, at that point can i run it with the hatch closed ,or there is still a fire problem , is there a lot of fume comming out of those pee hole?
    never !

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