Ignition....
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Ignition....

  1. #1
    Senior Member bajadad's Avatar
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    Default Ignition....

    I have a Mallory Voltmaster Mark 2 ignition, my question is I wired the following way.

    12v ign source, to ballast 5 ohm just what I had, out the ballast to pos side of coil, this is where my power loss is. nothing to the other side of ballast, I can't get power out of ballast, to the coil, ballast is brand new!

    If there's an easier, better way, school me.....all ears. Its a 460 Ford very mild.....THANKS
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  3. #2
    Cas
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    Here's the Mallory wiring diagram-
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    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bajadad View Post
    I have a Mallory Voltmaster Mark 2 ignition, my question is I wired the following way.

    12v ign source, to ballast 5 ohm just what I had, out the ballast to pos side of coil, this is where my power loss is. nothing to the other side of ballast, I can't get power out of ballast, to the coil, ballast is brand new!

    If there's an easier, better way, school me.....all ears. Its a 460 Ford very mild.....THANKS
    What distributor are you running? That will determine the correct wiring.

    Even though you say the ballast is new, doesn't mean it isn't defective. Disconnect it and measure the resistance.

    Here's Mallory's PDF for the Voltmaster II coil
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    Senior Member bajadad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    What distributor are you running? That will determine the correct wiring.

    Even though you say the ballast is new, doesn't mean it isn't defective. Disconnect it and measure the resistance.

    Here's Mallory's PDF for the Voltmaster II coil
    I believe its a stock distributor, nothing fancy.....I have also wired it the same way as this chart....maybe to much ballast at 5 ohms?
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    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Point ignition or electronic?

    Which diagram from the Mallory page?

    Go through the Mallory info and find out what they want for ballast. I know that when I ran a Unilite (I also used that same coil) it required a Mallory ballast that had a different resistance than the stock one.

    Regardless of what the ballast is supposed to be, you need to measure it to be sure it isn't "open". Your description of "I can't get power out of ballast, to the coil" makes it sound like a bad ballast.

    Edit: Did some research and found that your 5 ohm ballast is way too high. The Part #700, that Mallory recommends is .75-1.5ohms. There was an entry in their tech forums that indicated that the total resistance of ballast and coil should be between 1.5 and 3 ohms.
    Last edited by Oldsquirt; 05-23-2009 at 07:47 PM.
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  8. #6
    Senior Member bajadad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    Point ignition or electronic?

    Which diagram from the Mallory page?

    Go through the Mallory info and find out what they want for ballast. I know that when I ran a Unilite (I also used that same coil) it required a Mallory ballast that had a different resistance than the stock one.

    Regardless of what the ballast is supposed to be, you need to measure it to be sure it isn't "open". Your description of "I can't get power out of ballast, to the coil" makes it sound like a bad ballast.

    Edit: Did some research and found that your 5 ohm ballast is way too high. The Part #700, that Mallory recommends is .75-1.5ohms. There was an entry in their tech forums that indicated that the total resistance of ballast and coil should be between 1.5 and 3 ohms.
    I appreciate your help first off, its a point system, i'll try a different ballast and see what happens...
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    Senior Member bajadad's Avatar
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    Tried a new ballast 1.6 ohms still nothing. I'm not getting power out the other side of ballast still. Is there a system that can eliminate the ballast? I'm not in magnito catagory, mabye an alternative.
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    Seriously off center slowride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bajadad View Post
    Tried a new ballast 1.6 ohms still nothing. I'm not getting power out the other side of ballast still. Is there a system that can eliminate the ballast? I'm not in magnito catagory, mabye an alternative.
    You need the ballast for the module in the dist, not the coil. First, disconnect the red wire to the dist at the ballast. Turn the key on and check for voltage on both terminals of the ballast. Keep in mind that depending upon how your ignition switch is wired and what starter relay you have, you may have power with the key on, but not while cranking.
    To eliminate the ballast, Pertronix has a replacement for the Mallory ignition module. It does not require a ballast resistor.
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    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Let's go back to the beginning for a moment. Was this coil new? If not, did it come off a running vehicle or have you measured the coil's primary and secondary resistance and compared to Mallory's specs? Primary resistance plays an important role in determining the voltage measured at the "coil" end of ballast. What is the condition of the distributor?

    The basic circuit for points could not be simpler. Ign SW----> one end of ballast, other end of ballast----> coil positive, coil negative ----> distributor, distributor housing to ground. Confirm that, and make sure, for the purpose of testing, that there is nothing else connected to coil or ballast. You will note that Mallory diagram #2 shows 2 ballast resistors. You should be able to get the system fired on just one, but should obtain a second and wire as shown for proper point and coil life.

    Are you using a voltmeter for testing or a test light?
    Last edited by Oldsquirt; 05-24-2009 at 11:03 AM.
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    Senior Member bajadad's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Oldsquirt;678348]Let's go back to the beginning for a moment. Was this coil new? If not, did it come off a running vehicle or have you measured the coil's primary and secondary resistance and compared to Mallory's specs? Primary resistance plays an important role in determining the voltage measured at the "coil" end of ballast. What is the condition of the distributor?

    The basic circuit for points could not be simpler. Ign SW----> one end of ballast, other end of ballast----> coil positive, coil negative ----> distributor, distributor housing to ground. Confirm that, and make sure, for the purpose of testing, that there is nothing else connected to coil or ballast. You will note that Mallory diagram #2 shows 2 ballast resistors. You should be able to get the system fired on just one, but should obtain a second and wire as shown for proper point and coil life.

    The coil was good, I rebuilt the engine last summer and was doing the wiring to the coil to break in the cam, I did the wiring exactly the same as chart, nothing out the other side of ballast, no power. Mallory recommends .75 ohm ballast this is the only thing I haven't tried. Test light im using. My question is the distributor needs a ground? because i've fired this way without a ground from the housing? same system.
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  13. #11
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bajadad View Post
    The coil was good, I rebuilt the engine last summer and was doing the wiring to the coil to break in the cam, I did the wiring exactly the same as chart, nothing out the other side of ballast, no power. Mallory recommends .75 ohm ballast this is the only thing I haven't tried. Test light im using. My question is the distributor needs a ground? because i've fired this way without a ground from the housing? same system.
    The housing is the ground path for a points distributor is all I was trying to point out.

    You really should have a volt/ohm meter for detailed testing. Nothing fancy. I use a $400 Fluke at work and a $5 Harbor Freight special at home. Not all test lights will light properly at the lower voltages found in ignitions beyond the ballast. The test light I keep at work is a 6volt for just that reason.

    Disconnect the distributor from the coil and check for voltage at coil negative. If it shows OK, check your distributor. Points may be closed(means current will be flowing and you will see a voltage drop across each resistance) or condensor shorted to ground(also causing current to flow, but circuit will never "break" when points open). If no voltage at coil negative, go backwards in the circuit, point by point, until you do find voltage.
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    Senior Member bajadad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    The housing is the ground path for a points distributor is all I was trying to point out.

    You really should have a volt/ohm meter for detailed testing. Nothing fancy. I use a $400 Fluke at work and a $5 Harbor Freight special at home. Not all test lights will light properly at the lower voltages found in ignitions beyond the ballast. The test light I keep at work is a 6volt for just that reason.

    Disconnect the distributor from the coil and check for voltage at coil negative. If it shows OK, check your distributor. Points may be closed(means current will be flowing and you will see a voltage drop across each resistance) or condensor shorted to ground(also causing current to flow, but circuit will never "break" when points open). If no voltage at coil negative, go backwards in the circuit, point by point, until you do find voltage.
    Volt, ohm meter haven't tried, you said the test light sometimes wont show low voltage, i'm thinking it the coil is bad, but will check current. also i've takin the distributor cap off points have been set, turned over and no spark at the points, so Its narrowing down to a coil...I really appreciate your time OldSquirt.
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  15. #13
    Senior Member bajadad's Avatar
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    I'm just gonna switch out the whole ignition, any suggestions 460 with mild cam 750 holley performer rpm intake. I was thinking Pertronix, Msd blaster ss coil, .8 ohm ballast...
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