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???????? newbie

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    Senior Member Deweydaddy's Avatar
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    Default ???????? newbie

    Is there a way to run your engine in your driveway without hurting pump/engine? Just got my boat yesterday and want to change the oil and filter. Would like to warm the oil before doing so. Drove almost 14 hrs yesterday( total) and cant wait to go over the boat today. I want to see what makes this thing tick. My first jet boat, dont want to burn it up. Thanks guys.

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    Senior Member 2savage4you's Avatar
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    Disconnect your driveline and your set.........

    Congrats on the boat

    Pics are always good

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    Senior Member Deweydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2savage4you View Post
    Disconnect your driveline and your set.........

    Congrats on the boat

    Pics are always good
    Not so sure what you mean. I didn't have much time to go over it last night. I'll pop the cover today and get a good look see.
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  6. #4
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deweydaddy View Post
    Is there a way to run your engine in your driveway without hurting pump/engine? Just got my boat yesterday and want to change the oil and filter. Would like to warm the oil before doing so. Drove almost 14 hrs yesterday( total) and cant wait to go over the boat today. I want to see what makes this thing tick. My first jet boat, dont want to burn it up. Thanks guys.

    In short No you should not, I know peeps post up they've done it for years, but this is how the pump performace degrades. Running in real shallow water, power beaching, and running on the trailer, are all bad habits with the jet. When the jet is blue printed, clearances are tightened up, making this rule 10 X for critical, less room between moving parts, and less room for thermal expansion. If you don't mind a 1/4 mile to get on plane when loaded down, or pull tubes at full throttle, run it on the trailer. If you want snappy accelleration, get on plane quickly, and decent cruise rpm's, follow the rules. You may not notice it the first time, but it starts degrading the very first time, and every time.

    Congrads on the new purchase
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


  7. #5
    Senior Member 2savage4you's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deweydaddy View Post
    Not so sure what you mean. I didn't have much time to go over it last night. I'll pop the cover today and get a good look see.

    If you take out the drive shaft it will stop the pump from getting ruined while running on the trailer.. think of the pump as a bearing that needs constant lubrication (water)

    Sleekcrafter posted up some good info

  8. #6
    Senior Member Deweydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    In short No you should not, I know peeps post up they've done it for years, but this is how the pump performace degrades. Running in real shallow water, power beaching, and running on the trailer, are all bad habits with the jet. When the jet is blue printed, clearances are tightened up, making this rule 10 X for critical, less room between moving parts, and less room for thermal expansion. If you don't mind a 1/4 mile to get on plane when loaded down, or pull tubes at full throttle, run it on the trailer. If you want snappy accelleration, get on plane quickly, and decent cruise rpm's, follow the rules. You may not notice it the first time, but it starts degrading the very first time, and every time.

    Congrads on the new purchase
    Thanks sleekcrafter. I asked about you yesterday. Was hoping to meet you. Met Mike for the first time and talked a little about your boat. Nice guy that Mike. I didn't know he was that big. I have to move the gas pedal, cant reach it all the way. You know the saying " born tall with short legs" thats me.

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    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    Good advice here. Its a pain to pull the driveline, but once you do it a few times you will become more efficient at it-I can have mine off in 10 minutes or less. Keep the pump tight and you will out accelerate the guys who run their boat on the trailer with the driveline attached.

    On some drive-lines you will have to pull the bell housing to really get at the bolts-in which case you will want a rail kit. as 2 bolts & the block dowels remain in the rear mount when the bell housing is removed-there fore the engine is still supported allowing complete access to drive-line.(this is on a BBC)
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

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    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    Being that you are a newbe, probably no one has told you to cover the pump intake opening on the bottom of the boat when towing it yet. On your 14 hour trip home, if you did not cover the pump intake, you filled the gap between the wear ring and the impeller with road gravel and road trash. If you fire it up on the trailer that way, it just grinds the components to pieces in time. Look at the front of your trailer axel. The debris that caused that damage to the paint on the axel is also now in your pump between the W/R and Imp. Take it to the boat ramp, put it in and out of the water two or three times to help wash out some of the trash, (With the shifter in forward position). Then put it back in the water, wait about 1 minute to make sure the pump has had time to fill, and fire it up with the pump in the water. Cover the intake on the way home or build a cover that fits on the bottom of the bunks of your trailer. Hope this little bit of info saves some parts for you. Enjoy your boat!! This is a great place to get help with your boating issues.
    Last edited by DuaneHTP; 05-31-2009 at 09:44 AM.

  11. #9
    Senior Member Deweydaddy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuaneHTP View Post
    Being that you are a newbe, probably no one has told you to cover the pump intake opening on the bottom of the boat when towing it yet. On your 14 hour trip home, if you did not cover the pump intake, you filled the gap between the wear ring and the impeller with road gravel and road trash. If you fire it up on the trailer that way, it just grinds the components to pieces in time. Look at the front of your trailer axel. The debris that caused that damage to the paint on the axel is also now in your pump between the W/R and Imp. Take it to the boat ramp, put it in and out of the water two or three times to help wash out some of the trash, (With the shifter in forward position). Then put it back in the water, wait about 1 minute to make sure the pump has had time to fill, and fire it up with the pump in the water. Cover the intake on the way home or build a cover that fits on the bottom of the bunks of your trailer. Hope this little bit of info saves some parts for you. Enjoy your boat!! This is a great place to get help with your boating issues.
    That sucks. I am surprised the owner didn't tell me that as I left. Thanks

  12. #10
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deweydaddy View Post
    That sucks. I am surprised the owner didn't tell me that as I left. Thanks

    I put on over 4K miles a year between here, there and Michigan, I've never had anything inside the pump. I must be a territorial thing, my friends also never have this happen.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


  13. #11
    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    I put on over 4K miles a year between here, there and Michigan, I've never had anything inside the pump. I must be a territorial thing, my friends also never have this happen.
    You would be amazed at how much crap gets in there, we normally have the problem right when pulling out of the river, the pump is wet, then you drive through dusty dirt roads to get to the pavement..

    Instant pump killing dirt...I try to get the pressure washer into the pump intake when we get home, the dirt that comes out is actually visible when the water comes out.

    GT
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

  14. #12
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Like I say it's territorial, I've had my pump apart in the after the long tows many times, set back makes inspection easy for me. GT..I think that your right, though maybe it's happening when loading.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


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