steering arm connection question
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread:
steering arm connection question

  1. #1
    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Beach
    Posts
    1,617

    Default steering arm connection question

    So..trying to get the my POS running for this weekend. I'm a bit concerned about my steering cable connection to the pump tiller arm. I see lots of pictures where the eye on the end of the cable is bolted to a little clevis adapter thing, which is then bolted to the tiller arm. I had no such piece, so I simply used a good quality 3/8-24 bolt with about 1/2" of non-threaded shank (fits nicely in the eye at the end of the cable)...and along with a nut on each side of the tiller arm and a few stainless washers as shims, assembled everything. I'm thinking that the reason I didn't have one is because there was not diverter on this boat when I got it. Will the steer tube bushing take up the flex from the diverter sufficiently or should I machine up one one of these little clevis adapter things?

    Is 6061 T-6 good enough or should I make it out of steel?...or, whats the real name for it so I can order one?

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Choking my ....... beerjet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rancho Cucamonga
    Posts
    355

    Default

    This clevis piece you speak of is about $30 and the "right " way to do things.
    Stainless, sleeved, nylocked, the whole gig.
    Buy it . Dont okie doke yourself on your steering
    Love aint nothing but a four letter word, just like f*ck and sh!t .

  4. #3
    LP-25.com Infomaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    New Port Richey, FL
    Posts
    16,855

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beerjet View Post
    This clevis piece you speak of is about $30 and the "right " way to do things.
    Stainless, sleeved, nylocked, the whole gig.
    Buy it . Dont okie doke yourself on your steering
    You mean like an ARP rocker stud and a stud girdle poly lock?


  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    979

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    I had no such piece, so I simply used a good quality 3/8-24 bolt with about 1/2" of non-threaded shank (fits nicely in the eye at the end of the cable)...and along with a nut on each side of the tiller arm and a few stainless washers as shims, assembled everything.
    That's about the way they were done back in the day.........

    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    .....or, whats the real name for it so I can order one?
    Rex Marine Swivel connection kit

  7. #5
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Artesia, N.M.
    Posts
    5,291

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    You mean like an ARP rocker stud and a stud girdle poly lock?

    Well at least you didn't use a lug bolt off that old ford out back
    #55

  8. #6
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Pat ,you want to throw one of these in your "cart" ? Tom

  9. #7
    Senior Member GAWnCA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sacramento, CA, USA
    Posts
    2,510

    Default

    How do you determine the length of the extension? I'll be adding a droop and I know I'll need a longer steering hook up.
    Wags

  10. #8
    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Beach
    Posts
    1,617

    Default

    So....WTF is the point? When I made the post, I was thinking that the steering tiller tilted with the diverter, but after looking at it, thats not the case......so...I can have the steering cable end pivoting on a bolt...or have another piece in there that pivots on a bolt.

    No thanks Tom...I don't need anything else in my cart right now. I can machine one up as soon as I understand the point.

    I don't want to half ass anything, but it seems that the regardless of which way it's done, the shear point strength will be the same. I imagine if the steer tube is positioned higher in the transom so that it isn't on the same horizontal plane as the tiller arm, the extra pivot would be necessary, but I drilled my transom plate perfectly level with the tiller arm, so there isn't any up and down movement, just the side to side.
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 06-08-2009 at 09:59 PM.

  11. #9
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Pat ,The "active" steer tube bushing will take care of the "side to side" Greg most times the 4.5 " billet extension , when used with a "swivel" (shown above) will work well with a Diverter and droop combo ! Tom

  12. #10
    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Beach
    Posts
    1,617

    Default

    OK, I understand the necessity with a droop...but I ain't got one (and I'm runnin' outta money so don't throw one in my cart...yet )

    Cool, we'll run it and see. With my luck, it'll probably sink before I get a chance to try and make it turn, so its probably a moot point anyway.

    Did you get my cable out today? I'm hoping to have this thing out at elsinore on Sat or Sun. to make sure it floats before I drag it out the river for father's day.

  13. #11
    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Long Beach
    Posts
    1,617

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Infomaniac View Post
    You mean like an ARP rocker stud and a stud girdle poly lock?

    Hack J/K

    I've got half my boat held together with old SBC head bolts. They were in junk drawer...might as well use 'em.

  14. #12
    Senior Member YumaJet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Yuma, Az
    Posts
    829

    Default

    I had mine set-up like that and after loosing my steering and almost crashing directly into a cliff last month, I "upgraded" to the tube and swivel kit. Good thing for the tullies! Having it half-assed rigged will put a lot of stress and tension on the steering, sometimes feeling like your loosing steering. It made a big difference when I added the steering kit and droop, which I bought from Tom @ JBP.


    I had to use a 2 1/2" bolt and 1 1/2" extra spacer to make it work.
    boatless....

+ Reply to Thread

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95