O.k. as a prelude I'll say I'm no motor guy. I have managed to keep
my BBF running all this time, but probably just because It's been oil
and spark plug changes primarily.
Last time at the river I made a pass probably just 1/8 mile at WOT.
I could tell something wasn't right and it sounded like it was running
on 7 cylinders. No back firing or anything, but definitely not hitting on
all 8. Managed to limp it back to the trailer and didn't touch it again
till I got it home. Pulled the plugs and all 8 are black and fuel fouled.
Even after 3 days of sitting you could still smell fuel on them real strong.
I pulled a cold compression check and all cylinders came back at 165
psi which is about what they've been since the motor was built 7+
years ago. It took a while for the readings to come up, but again......
the motor hadn't been started and was cold.
Pulled the oil filter and cut it open and found no metal in the pleats.
Just a few little pieces of silicone from the valve covers. No metal at
all. I had just changed oil and filter and only run it twice since then.
I pulled the rocker covers and checked the play on all the rockers. It's
a flat tappet hydraulic cam and I know there's going to be a little play,
but it seemed excessive. Again no motorhead by any means, but I can
follow instructions (I think) and went about adjusting the valves.
Possibly first mistake I did it cold. Here's the method used.
Hydraulic Valve Adjustment
Pick a cylinder.
Bump the motor until the Exhaust valve starts up. Intake is now on
base circle. Loosen the intake lock nut.
WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax. Twirl intake pushrod
between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) and tighten the lock nut
until you feel the pushrod stop turning. This is zero lash.
Tighten locknut 1/2~3/4 turn. Bump the motor until the Intake is
almost down. Exhaust is now on base circle. Loosen the exhaust lock
nut. WAIT a minute or so, to let the plunger relax. Twirl exhaust
pushrod between thumb and forefinger (hold gently) , etc... Tighten
locknut 1/2~3/4 turn.
They were so loose that I found myself having to put a full turn 360
degrees on the adjuster nuts before I hit zero lash. Although I thought
this seemed like an awful lot, I kept going until I had them all done.
I used the 1/2 turn after zero lash as opposed to the 3/4.
After finishing I noticed that the valve spring retainers were making
physical contact with the rocker arms. (Don't worry I wasn't stupid
enough to start it like that). Obviously something is F'd up here.
I might've screwed up the adjustment, but I don't think so. Photos are
below. Any ideas what might cause this, or am I just a dumbass? All
the polylocks ended up being the same depth within the adjuster nuts
so it's not like I screwed up a cylinder. If I did something wrong, I did
em all wrong, but once again I don't think that's the case.
Should I have started it prior to making the adjustments so ensure the
lifters were all pumped up?
The only thing I could figure out is that the lifters had bled off and it
screwed up my adjustments. However I could feel the lifters compress
and the plungers give way when going through and adjusting them.
If I did F it up, how would I get back to square one so I can give it another
Poly locks all match
Oil filter pleats