Motor Angle
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Motor Angle

  1. #1
    Senior Member Rain Maker MN's Avatar
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    Default Motor Angle

    Just want someone to verify my thinking or understanding...... Installing a rail kit...

    1. Place a level on the stringers and make the boat level, so stringers are level

    2. Put a angle finder on the flat part of the intake where the pump bolts to, this should be at 4 degrees ( or how close should it be?) in relation to the level stringers

    3. Install motor rails level with the stringer, slightly below the top of the stringer or even ( personal choice from my understanding)

    4. Trim motor plates to allow for about 1 degree in different betwen the pump and motor, for u-joint operation ,,,,,,, the angle of the motor in this step can be found by placing the angle finder on the top of the intake where the carb bolts up ?

    Sorry for starting another thread on this but want to make sure I am on the right path before I start drilling holes

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  3. #2
    Senior Member tahitijet's Avatar
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    there is a thread on here where a few of us went into good detail about our own ways of doing it. I tihnk it was started by holorinhal or something like that.. Might be tilted rigging school.

    I think it will give you all the info you need but generaly I take measurements for the pump to the boat from the keel not the stringers. measurements from pump to motor i take from the pump and the flywheel/flex plate.

  4. #3
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    #4 depends on intake used. pan rail would be more correct.
    #55

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    Amber Racing Services BUSBY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tahitijet View Post
    there is a thread on here where a few of us went into good detail about our own ways of doing it. I tihnk it was started by holorinhal or something like that.. Might be tilted rigging school.
    The thread was "Rail Kit installation":
    click here to view it

  7. #5
    Senior Member Rain Maker MN's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info on the thread but no one really mentions what to level? Nor what the intake should be set at?

    As far as measuring the motor angle. I have an Edelbrock RPM intake...sound like the top of the intake might not be level and I should meaure off the lip of the pan

  8. #6
    Senior Member flat screwd's Avatar
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    OK with everything, but degree off the valve cover and not the carb mounting pad . You will see that the carb pad is tapered aprox 4 degrees also.

  9. #7
    Amber Racing Services BUSBY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Maker MN View Post
    Thanks for the info on the thread but no one really mentions what to level? Nor what the intake should be set at?

    As far as measuring the motor angle. I have an Edelbrock RPM intake...sound like the top of the intake might not be level and I should meaure off the lip of the pan
    If you set your intake level with the boat, the pump mounting surface should be at 4* if you have a std intake ... you should set the engine as close to the same angle of degree.

    If you have a digital level, you can zero it on the intake and then use it on the pan rail mounting surface to make your plates.

    There is a lot of talk about how much difference should be from pump to engine, some say 1* some say 2*, Shoemaker says to eyeball it, etc.

    As long as it's real close, your u-joints will take care of any difference. I wouldn't make it more than 1.5*

  10. #8
    Senior Member earlbrown's Avatar
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    I try to get mine as straight as I can........



    ....and hope I'm only off a degree or two

  11. #9
    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    It has always bothered me that the nose of my engine is pointing up so much. Combine that with it's weight in the boat (on the water) exaggerating the problem and no wonder so many have problems with oil hitting the rear of the crank.
    With my 3-point mount my bell housing is sitting on the nose of the pump, I lowered the front of my engine a few degrees, been fine for years > wish I could drop it more!

    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

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    Senior Member GAWnCA's Avatar
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    Just a quick question... If the pump intake is installed with the recommended 4* that Berkeley instrucks, and the motor is mounted level to the oil pan lip, wouldn't that cause an offset of about 4* at the U joint?
    Wags

  13. #11
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GAWnCA View Post
    Just a quick question... If the pump intake is installed with the recommended 4* that Berkeley instrucks, and the motor is mounted level to the oil pan lip, wouldn't that cause an offset of about 4* at the U joint?
    I don't think anyone said to do that. If you are referring to Busby's post #7, he said to zero a digital level on the top of the pump intake and then set the engine pan rail to the same zero degrees. This puts the engine centerline parallel to the pump centerline. A digital level makes this a breeze.

  14. #12
    Senior Member GAWnCA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldsquirt View Post
    I don't think anyone said to do that. If you are referring to Busby's post #7, he said to zero a digital level on the top of the pump intake and then set the engine pan rail to the same zero degrees. This puts the engine centerline parallel to the pump centerline. A digital level makes this a breeze.
    Said to do what? I know there needs to be some angle in the drive line. What would be the point in making everything parallel? I'm just asking.
    Wags

  15. #13
    Senior Member Oldsquirt's Avatar
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    You asked about putting the intake at 4* and then the engine pan rail at 0*, causing a 4* angle between the centerlines.

    You start by getting them mocked-up parallel. From there you move the motor any way you want to get to whatever angle you choose in the drive line. Which way and how much is up to you.

  16. #14
    Senior Member GAWnCA's Avatar
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    So what angle do you suggest?
    Wags

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