Engine work or Pump work?
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Engine work or Pump work?

  1. #1
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    Default Engine work or Pump work?

    I'm looking for a little more top speed! I was wondering if i could play with the pump enough to gain what i'm looking for. I'm running a slightly built 350 with a agressor C impeller at 5000rpm. Right now i'm pushing low 60's for speed. I know my impeller to wear ring clearance is .074". I was thinking converting my berk JE to a split bowl and adding a droop. My boat is only 16ft, i heard they work well on the smaller boats... Any recomondations? I would like to hit 70mph someday. My friend does have a smaller Wiand blower for a decent price too, just kind of seeing what direction i should head. here are a couple pics of the berk.



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    classic hot boater Orange Peel's Avatar
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    Default just my 2c worth

    I have a 18ft with split bowl droop,Bronze A, and place diverter as well as shoe and ride plate ran a 454 with 2 4s around 450-500HP and ran 80MPH with me alone. This year I built a 461ci BBC with cast 781 heads and a big 420 mega blower. I am turnin my A 5800 RPM and I think I lost speed? I think the first thing to do is all the pump work you can then start on the engine.

    I have a friend here with a 16' with 383 stroker with 144 blower and he is running 74MPH after the snoot, shoe and ride plate. Not sure what he was running before but I do know it was not 74.

    I thank .74 is a little much on the impeller but I could be wrong, not sure about a C
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    Senior Member LuckyDaze's Avatar
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    A jet boat's speed comes from the efficiency hull and pump first then engine to back up a good setup. Check out your hull and freshin up your pump, then start saving to do the engine. You're not gonna be able to just plop that blower down on your engine, its going to have to be built to be blown. $$

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    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyDaze View Post
    A jet boat's speed comes from the efficiency hull and pump first then engine to back up a good setup. Check out your hull and freshin up your pump, then start saving to do the engine. You're not gonna be able to just plop that blower down on your engine, its going to have to be built to be blown. $$
    What all needs to be done for a blower? Mine has roller rockers, 7/16 head studs, heads are ported. Still need to figure out the duration of the 500 lift cam from the previous owner. My friend said the blower would work on the stock compression pistons. But i was thinking too it would be better to first get the pump efficient and then worry about the engine later.

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    Senior Member LuckyDaze's Avatar
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    Depending on what kind of boost you want to put through that engine is going to dictate what kind of setup you'll need. Cam duration, lift, lobe centers, heads, and bottom end all come into play for a blower motor.

    Sure you could plop a blower on just about any engine, but that doesn't mean its gonna run well.

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    classic hot boater Orange Peel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyDaze View Post
    A jet boat's speed comes from the efficiency hull and pump first then engine to back up a good setup. Check out your hull and freshin up your pump, then start saving to do the engine. You're not gonna be able to just plop that blower down on your engine, its going to have to be built to be blown. $$
    I can second that.. I just spent over 6000 to add the blower, 1300 in machine work to the block and another 500 on the heads
    over 3000 on crank,rods,cam,liffters,roller rockers....
    AN fittings and lines who knows, also rebuit carbs for the blower app$$$$
    Then I had to buy the damn blower??
    But it was worth it if I can get the pump to pump the water we will be doin somthing, The engine is eaten and when the blower makes boost she screams



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    MLC - Mid Life Crisis probablecause's Avatar
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    I was once told that all the HP in the world isn't going to help a pump that is only running at 50% efficiency.

    Just my opinion, but maybe it's time for the government to take down the bird feeder!


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    Quote Originally Posted by probablecause View Post
    I was once told that all the HP in the world isn't going to help a pump that is only running at 50% efficiency.
    I talked to a couple people and i think i'm on the right track with the pump now! I'll start with that stuff and see where it takes me

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    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda92 View Post
    I talked to a couple people and i think i'm on the right track with the pump now! I'll start with that stuff and see where it takes me
    Speaking from experience with a good hull (rogers copy) and a berkley e pump, transition from keel into pump is crucial. I went from running gps 70-72 mph (depending on water conditions) with a mild bbf and no issues to breaking bowls and finally exploding the pump from the back of the boat with a 540" bbc and 640 hp. Now with a full custom adjustable intake and good pump I gps @ mid 90's. Hull and pump efficiency is crutial. The "E" pump wasn't built for speed. Good luck, have fun, prepair your wallet, and be safe.l

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    alright here is one i dont understand yet.. I have .074" wall clearance from wear ring to impeller and it spins 5K rpms. If i tighten this up to .025" how much will it effect my rpms roughly? And furthermore if i cut my impeller down to regain my 5K rpm, I'm pretty much back to where i started right? To have any gain I would have to build more power in the engine to regain the 5K rpm.. Or am I way off?

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    You also need a good ramp loader and smooth up the inside the pump intake. Looks like the rideplate is hanging down where it should hook to a shoe and you have to be getting all kinds of cavitation with all those ruff edges. If the pump don't hook up HP don't help.

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    Senior Member Delemorte's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GasGuzzler View Post
    Looks like the rideplate is hanging down where it should hook to a shoe

    I think thats an optical illusion. Mine looks real similar to that but from the angle he took the pic it makes it look destorted. Im not sure i can put a shoe on my E pump since that ride plate is built into the pump it self.. However ive never pulled that bad boy out so i could be totally off.

    I simply thought with a E pump the only mods you could do is a split bowl and a droop and the rest you could not.. Not saying a droop or new bowl would help just saying i think its the only things you can change.

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    the ensueing fire would likely be extinguished by the sinking however

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    I might be a little slant eyed, you probably are right.....I have a JG anyways

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    Quote Originally Posted by Honda92 View Post
    What all needs to be done for a blower? Mine has roller rockers, 7/16 head studs, heads are ported. Still need to figure out the duration of the 500 lift cam from the previous owner. My friend said the blower would work on the stock compression pistons. But i was thinking too it would be better to first get the pump efficient and then worry about the engine later.
    forged pistons and crank?

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