water valve installed in cooling system??
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water valve installed in cooling system??

  1. #1

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    Default water valve installed in cooling system??

    hello all, I have a 455 olds in my Jet boat,
    I mentioned this a few times, but maybe someone can figure this out for me,
    the previous owner installed what looks like a Home depot type water valve in-line with the what I think is the return of the water out of the engine,
    the strange thing is that the guy I bought the boat from , says not to touch it , because it was "set up" when I took the valve out to replace the clamps that was holding it in place I looked through it and it was completely open, not half way or anything,? any thoughts on this, what the heck is that there for? can I deep six that valve, being that its open, My guess its there to restrict the water from exiting the engine to warm it up ???? who knows

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    OK, we are about to get into the "regulator or not" argument, there are a dozen threads on it, just sayin'. The debate about "a better mousetrap" will not be settled any time soon, as both ways work just fine, some people think one or the other is better, no actual testing of theories really supports either.

    First, do NOT restrict water LEAVING the block, or you run the great risk of blowing out the intake gasket corners and filling the block up (the oiled-part) with water, not good.

    Now, what type of exhaust setup do you have?

    Old style log manifolds or fully jacketed headers like mine plumb very similarly and you also do not restrict water out in any manner, you do restrict inflow to allow the engine to warm up some, but not to overheat, and a jet pump, you wind up restricting it pretty heavilly. I really prefer gate valves for this, as it can be (is on my boat) a very fine adjustment, very hard IMO with a ball valve.

    INJECTED headers, are generally water-controlled by a (often) spring loaded valve, and this requires some ammount of back-pressure to function, thus some manner of out-flow restriction overboard. Plus there is a valve to regulate how much water feeds the headers, they need very little. This setup can be a bit touchy to get set up, but works just fine, can be sensetive to FOD (foreign object debris) clogging valves.

    What do you have exactly???
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
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    hi, thanks for the responce,
    I have the water injected headers, I believe made by Bassett?
    there is a valve in line, which I believes opens at a certain pressure.
    I m not sure what that valve does that I removed, but it was open, completely ,
    this is how I checke, I removed the valve and looked directly into it, (its nothing more than a water valve you can buy from your local hardware store) maybe 1 mm of the gate valve was showing , otherwise it was open. if you click on the thumbnail below, you can barely see the valve at the front of the engine, just to the right of the tunnel air ram, its a regular water valve,
    it was open,
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    Last edited by Sunkisst6160; 10-04-2009 at 05:36 AM.

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    "Try it Now!" Tahiti Boss21's Avatar
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    Sunkist, like smokinglowriders said..on my bbo i have nothing on the outlets..and a gate valve on the inlet from the jet pump. I run it damn near closed..just open about three turns or so..but that adjusts with water temp etc. Mine likes to idle around 160-170'ish and drops down a little while driving..hope this helps. I'd rather not have that pressure building up in the motor IMO, because there is no bypass or anything when you get on the RPM's. This setup has worked for 30 years in my motor, just my .02
    1992 Eliminator Daytona 21'

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    E-7 Sheepdog (ret) SmokinLowriderSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sunkisst6160 View Post
    hi, thanks for the responce,
    I have the water injected headers, I believe made by Bassett?
    there is a valve in line, which I believes opens at a certain pressure.
    I m not sure what that valve does that I removed, but it was open, completely ,
    this is how I checke, I removed the valve and looked directly into it, (its nothing more than a water valve you can buy from your local hardware store) maybe 1 mm of the gate valve was showing , otherwise it was open. if you click on the thumbnail below, you can barely see the valve at the front of the engine, just to the right of the tunnel air ram, its a regular water valve,
    it was open,
    OK, Basset headers, fairly comon, many folks here run them (for now, noise regs will eventually kill them IMO. The folks running them are the best source of setup info, not me.

    That in-line valve that opens under pressure is often a "Basset 'T' valve" and I think there is another maker as well, as well as other ways to accomplish the same thing ("Banderlog" brand electronic valve). It splits the header cooling water to go to both headers, and shuts it off near idle, made by Basset.

    After that "T", there is often a manual controll valve to regulate the maximum water volume allowed to the headers, they don't need a lot to cool them. this valve could potentially be in front of the "T" valve tho.

    In this setup, there needs to be a valve of some sort restricting the overboard cooling water flow, in order to produce enough pressure to operate the "Bassett "T"". You want water from something approaching 2,000rpm on up, not anywhere arround idle.

    Where do the 2 ends of the line that you removed the questioned valve from, go to? The "thermostat" housing/cover and the header "T" valve, or the t-stat housing and a line overboard (dump line)??
    This determines the purpose of the valve, adjusting water volume to the headers, or adjusting system presssure by controlling overflow water over-board.

    I would advise on any setup where you are trying to pressurize the block, a pressure gauge be installed in the cooling system, a 0-30psi gauge, so you can see what is happening. IMO anything over 25psi is hazardous to your engine, look at the pressures of factory cooling systems, most are under 20psi.

    My setup is different, running thru transom fully jacketed headers, my engine cooling water is limited, as Boss' is, by a valve at the pump, while there is nothing keeping water from leaving the block, flowing into the header jackets, and flooding out the exhausts, I do not use an overboard dump line in any manner.

    Best of luck to ya, we'll help ya get this thing figured out.
    "As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron."
    H.L. Mencken

    OBAMA: Some people deserve this.
    The rest of us are being dragged along kicking and screaming.

  8. #6

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    the water valve Im talking about is placed in the outlet water that goes overboard, its located in line at the right side of what is the thermo housing. I believe it was used for slowing down the outlet of water to the engine,
    the interesting thing is that it was basically wide open, so Im wondering how important it is. Im pretty sure I understand how the Bassett vlave that supplies water to the headers works, but now Im wondering will not having this valve in place affect the water going into the headers?

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    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    It could. You will just have to try it and see. If your headers have trouble getting water around 2000 rpm, you might have to put it back in. If you do, I'd suggest putting a water pressure gauge in your thermostat housing, like mentioned above, to make sure that you don't create too much pressure in your engine.
    Last edited by DuaneHTP; 10-06-2009 at 06:33 AM. Reason: punctuation

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DuaneHTP View Post
    It could. You will just have to try it and see. If your headers have trouble getting water around 2000 rpm, you might have to put it back in. If you do, I'd suggest putting a water pressure gauge in your thermostat housing, like mentioned above, to make sure that you don't create too much pressure in your engine.
    Exactly. If you aren't getting any water to your headers, you will NEED this exit valve to supply enough pressure to open the Bassett valve. Like Duane said, I drilled and tapped my water neck for a pressure gauge just to verify that i won't blow any gaskets with excessive pressure. It looks pretty good to boot.

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