Manual Diverter Vs Hydraulic Pump Diverter
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Manual Diverter Vs Hydraulic Pump Diverter

  1. #1
    chilli-doggin
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    Default Manual Diverter Vs Hydraulic Pump Diverter

    What are some of the pros and cons?

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chilli-doggin View Post
    What are some of the pros and cons?
    Seems in our experience to run the Gammut from personal preference ,budget,application, allowable space (for controller & hardware ), how fast you want reaction , if you want to keep both hands on the wheel , "knowledge of trim position ", We sell about equal numbers of Hydraulics vs Manual. Folks with CruiserS seem to trend to Hydraulics ,a lot of smaller boats end up with manual Hydrualic setups take a little more time to install Manuals have less parts Have always said one of the single best "bang fo buck" additions you can make to your Jet boat is to add adjustable nozzle trim Tom

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    This has been hashed quite a bit in the past. I like my manual diverter. I like how it's easy to find the "sweet spot". I haven't figured out how the hyd. guys know how/when to stop. I think some of them have some kind of "trim" gauge. I dunno?? If I'm not mistaken the manual unit is less money also...
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    I like the hydraulic, but then again I'm not racing.
    it is a pain to look back at the roost to see where its at
    without a trim indicator.
    #55

  7. #5
    chilli-doggin
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    Thanks for the input so far!

    I currently run a hydraulic with the switch on the steering wheel with that sloppy coiled wire deal. I don't really like looking back all the time. I wish I could just set it and forget it. I do cruise it long distances sometimes but I rarely feel the need to play with it once I'm up and moving.

    Well my pump took a dump and before replacing it I thought about just switching over to a manual set up. I really don't want another gauge in the dash.

    So am I looking at just buying a cable and handle for the swap, or is their more needed?

  8. #6
    Senior Member GAWnCA's Avatar
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    I'm getting use to my hydraulic PD and can almost tell by how the boat is riding in the water where the conbination is best. All the way down for the hole shot will get you up on plane faster and then trim out for ride.
    Wags

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    Quote Originally Posted by chilli-doggin View Post
    Thanks for the input so far!

    I currently run a hydraulic with the switch on the steering wheel with that sloppy coiled wire deal. I don't really like looking back all the time. I wish I could just set it and forget it. I do cruise it long distances sometimes but I rarely feel the need to play with it once I'm up and moving.

    Well my pump took a dump and before replacing it I thought about just switching over to a manual set up. I really don't want another gauge in the dash.

    So am I looking at just buying a cable and handle for the swap, or is their more needed?
    yes, the cable with a cable seal, and the handle should be all the parts that are needed. you will have to drill out the diverter arm for the 43 bc cable to go thru where the upper tang of the hyd cyclinder is now. also you will need a heim cable end for the new cable as it is 1/4-28 threads and the cyclinder heim is larger.

  10. #8
    Screamin SeaMonkees Schi-502's Avatar
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    Default PD hydraulic controls

    Cruiser with hydraulic control and gauge.
    LaST GAUGE ON RIGHT IS A MERCURY STYLE TRIM INDICATOR.
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    Last edited by Schi-502; 10-19-2009 at 04:36 PM.
    Loose, the Dogs of War!

  11. #9
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    A manual cable is another item that needs replacement after a few seasons. If racing, make an up stop for the nozzle, perfect trim every time.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


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    Junior Member dboy1k's Avatar
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    i have a hardin marine electric set up on mine and it works awsome

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    Senior Member IRRebel's Avatar
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    Tom nailed it on the preference. I have both on different boats.

    Personally, I like the manual. With a few checks behind you at first to know what notch does what in your particular boat, you're good to go. IE I know the Moo at 4 clicks from top is where her sweet spot is for max speed.(Cables last much longer if maintained, but how many of us are running 20-30 year old f/r or steering cables? same cable fwiw!)

    Without a guage, the hydraulic is impossible to know without taking your eyes off where you're going to turn and guage your 'wake'. A guage is yet another thing to look at and set up properly IMO. You also have another fluid to check, maintain, and worry about leaking.

    Ray

  14. #12
    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    I've had both. I prefer the Hydraulic. But again I'm not racing. The manual is much quicker.

    As for the sweet spot, I can feel it when I'm running I dont need to look back. As soon as the hull frees up I stop. If its that big of a deal you can add a stop to the rise side. Kinda what the racers add.

    Manuals don't have a bunch of parts that can fail like Lines that can leak or break, Pumps that can stop working or have the res crack and leak all inside the boat. Solenoids that stick. Diodes that fail or electrical that may short out the pump system.

    Not much to go wrong with a manual system. Loose nuts and bolts. Routine maintenance can eliminate that. Frozen cable is about the only drawback. Them suckers are expensive.

    If you stay with Hydraulic, here are a few things that will make your pump and boating a better experience.

    1. Make sure you have a perfect ground!
    2. Add a Bosch relay or Banderlog relay to get 12 full volts
    3. Keep the res full. When a line kinda leaks, fluid goes by by quick.
    4. Replace the lines every few years, Kinda like the frozen cable deal.
    5. Keep a few 1/4 x 1/4 unions in the boat just in case a line blows.
    6. Add stainless nylon lines and forget about replacing the plastic ones
    7. Routine maintenance, Check fluid level, check the ground wire, Inspect the plastic lines for leaks and or bends that will become a leak & tighten all the connections.

    I guess it all comes down to maintenance on both accounts. I've been through pumps all warranted by Bennett on both boats. 3 on the Kachina (in 10 years) and none on on the Liberator. All except the cracked res was my failure to inspect the grounds or add the relay. Now if I could just break out 400 bux for the length of SS nylon line I require. That 400 bux is gas money.
    Takin it home

  15. #13
    " Live Laterally " Dominator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    I've had both. I prefer the Hydraulic. But again I'm not racing. The manual is much quicker.

    As for the sweet spot, I can feel it when I'm running I dont need to look back. As soon as the hull frees up I stop. If its that big of a deal you can add a stop to the rise side. Kinda what the racers add.

    Manuals don't have a bunch of parts that can fail like Lines that can leak or break, Pumps that can stop working or have the res crack and leak all inside the boat. Solenoids that stick. Diodes that fail or electrical that may short out the pump system.

    Not much to go wrong with a manual system. Loose nuts and bolts. Routine maintenance can eliminate that. Frozen cable is about the only drawback. Them suckers are expensive.

    If you stay with Hydraulic, here are a few things that will make your pump and boating a better experience.

    1. Make sure you have a perfect ground!
    2. Add a Bosch relay or Banderlog relay to get 12 full volts
    3. Keep the res full. When a line kinda leaks, fluid goes by by quick.
    4. Replace the lines every few years, Kinda like the frozen cable deal.
    5. Keep a few 1/4 x 1/4 unions in the boat just in case a line blows.
    6. Add stainless nylon lines and forget about replacing the plastic ones
    7. Routine maintenance, Check fluid level, check the ground wire, Inspect the plastic lines for leaks and or bends that will become a leak & tighten all the connections.

    I guess it all comes down to maintenance on both accounts. I've been through pumps all warranted by Bennett on both boats. 3 on the Kachina (in 10 years) and none on on the Liberator. All except the cracked res was my failure to inspect the grounds or add the relay. Now if I could just break out 400 bux for the length of SS nylon line I require. That 400 bux is gas money.
    X2! What Cave said. I myself have had both. I prefer the manual diverter. THe hydraulic diverter is bulky within your hardware, its SLOW, its more mechanical which means more to go wrong and the roost does not get the height that a manual does. A manual you can find you sweet spot which for me in the past is 3-4 slots/clicks from the bottom and you dont have to wait for it you just put it there and ta da there it is. THats my .02 Good luck
    " NO MOTOR NO BOATER "

    " I'd rather be riding in my boat thinking about God, than in church thinking about my boat ".


  16. #14
    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dominator View Post
    X2! What Cave said. I myself have had both. I prefer the manual diverter. THe hydraulic diverter is bulky within your hardware, its SLOW, its more mechanical which means more to go wrong and the roost does not get the height that a manual does. A manual you can find you sweet spot which for me in the past is 3-4 slots/clicks from the bottom and you dont have to wait for it you just put it there and ta da there it is. THats my .02 Good luck
    Excuse me???

    Hopdaddy took this at apache
    Hydraulic place diverter all the way up for a show
    Takin it home

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