floor replacement
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floor replacement

  1. #1
    Senior Member CK7684's Avatar
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    Default floor replacement

    Any pointers?? I've got my floor cut out and ready for a new one to go in. Anything I should know?

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  3. #2
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    I replaced mine in my CVX...They had used 4x8x1/2 ply crosswise; I had cut out only 7 feet and Marine grade is $$$ so I used one sheet, length-wise. The crosswise measurement was 51" so I made "Mini Stringers" that fit into the outer strakes; I shaped them to fit the inside of the strakes, then cut a notch for the floor to fit into, and angled the inside so that when I taped it the cloth made a gentle bend. I also made doublers at each end of the floor to tie it in with the parts of the original floor at each end. When I bonded the floor down I used some clothe between the stringers and the floor to hold some resin. I also used some stainless screws to hold it down. My Dad stood on it because the floor bowed down in the middle(For drainage). I layered the side edges with progressively wider strips of clothe to fill in and blend the angle between the floor and the V. I then coated the top of the floor with resin and clothe. Been good for 7 years... If you can possibly get some, get some Isothropic(spelling?) FLEXIBLE resin; It stays flexible after curing and is really good for bonding 'cuz it won't crack.

  4. #3
    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
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    Default my tip

    1. coat the bottom of the floor with thinned resin, then full strenth resin before laying it in the boat.

    2. use the resin with glass pieces in it to fill in any gaps where the new floor doesnt fit tight.

    3. I used mat for the first layer, it is higher strength i believe, thin the hek out of the resin and it wont come apart as much and you wont wind up with "cotton candy".

    4. after the mat dries sand out any imperfections with a disc or air sander.

    5. I cut my cloth into 2x2 sections, wet the section you want to lay with the brush, lay the cloth down, then press it down with an adhesive roller and then wet it out, repeat with next section. The roller really helps the cloth lay ultra flat.
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

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    Senior Member CK7684's Avatar
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    Will the glass/resin stick to the roller? I have done a small amount of fiberglassing when I had to custom fit my stringers to the oil pan, and I went through a few sets of rubber gloves. I used body filler spreaders to dab the air bubbles out and I went through a few of those also.
    Do you think 3/4" plywood would be overkill??

  7. #5
    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CK7684 View Post
    Will the glass/resin stick to the roller? I have done a small amount of fiberglassing when I had to custom fit my stringers to the oil pan, and I went through a few sets of rubber gloves. I used body filler spreaders to dab the air bubbles out and I went through a few of those also.
    Do you think 3/4" plywood would be overkill??
    You cant use the roller on the mat (the stuff that goes every which way), it will stick. You might be able to use a roller that was all plastic, like one of those trim rolllers with no cover on it, but I just used a 4" brush, and then sanded out anything I did not like before pulling the next layer on, dont sand on the "joint" unless you put on a "patch" of mat over the area that had been sanded. The cloth does not come apart like the mat, and that is why you can use the roller with 1/8 or less nap, just make sure to thin the resin. The best thing about the roller is it wont move the fibers around like a spreader, but press the fibers together tighter. manufacturers use vacum to press the fibers together for higher strength.

    Check out the fiberglass repair section for more tips, one more time, thin the resin with acetone, you will thank yourself.
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

  8. #6
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Default

    Get your self a Bristle Roller, for the glass and mat. Using these rollers keeps the resin build up to a minimum, allowing your product to go farther between batches, keep the surface flat, and more important disperse the trapped air. They clean up real easy with acetone, and are just a few bucks.

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    Here in Cali we have a plastic supply chain called Tap; They have some aluminum rollers, but I have to say they never worked for me...I lay down some resin, let it dry(sticky), then lay some cloth, get it positioned, and then coat it with more resin- if done right you will rarely touch the resin...in theory...I think...

    The thickness of the plywood is up to you; I have a CVX and the floor was originaly 1/2- the longest span is between the stringers and is 2 feet, so it's pretty well supported. Wider spans or a lot of power might warrant 3/4...

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