Foamy Oil
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 38

Thread:
Foamy Oil

  1. #1
    Member Powerstroke W/smoke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    88

    Default Foamy Oil

    so the last time we were at the lake the boat sucked some water in through the headers into the exhaust valves (because of the water injection into the headers). I believe this happened because i had very low oil pressure so i checked the oil and it was foamy. i drained all the oil and replaced the filter and stuff and everything seems okay but i haven't had it on the water since though. could i have messed anything up?
    Southwind Jet, Ford 460, Berkeley Jet W/A impeller.
    Eliminator Jet, Ford 466, Berkeley Jet W/A impeller, msd, etc...
    All towing courtsey of the 7.3L Powerstroke

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    5,180

    Default

    Doubt it.
    No Fool Like A Old Fool is there?

  4. #3
    Senior Member Boat 405's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    3,736

    Default

    Your condensation in the oil could possibly from running too cold and not getting the oil hot enough to evaporate the moisture in the motor. Some boats run very cold and never get the oil temp high enough to do this. Some boats can benefit from a thermostat style bypass system like rex marine sells. DO NOT INSTALL A THERMOSTAT INTO THE BLOCK WITHOUT A BYPASS!

    A bypass thermostat system will help increase temperature in the block without interferring with water flow through the cooling system and headers.

    Another thing you don't want to do is start closing the valve that supplies water to the engine from the pump. Here is the kit from rex.

    http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...ode=thermokits

    Unlikely that you ingested water throught exhaust valves. It is possible but probably would break something before getting that much water into the motor.

    Do a compression test on each cylinder and check to see that they are all within an acceptable range. Also check the spark plugs for rust marks. Unlikely but worth checking.

    Also make sure that your valve that controls water to the headers is functioning properly, that no water goes through the headers at idle. and that it comes in around 1500-2000 rpm.

    Hope this helps.
    Boat 405.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    hugo,okla
    Posts
    11,733

    Default

    prob not but i'd check anyways pull all the spark plugs outta it, block off the water leaving the motor(if you've got a valve on the outgoin water, just close it) , take the ingoin water hose off at the pump that goes to the motor and hook it to your home water hose. turn on the water at house barely on, walk away from it for 5minutes, 5minutes later just crank the motor over and look for signs of water shooting out any of the plug holes. if it doesn't, put it all back together and call it good

    if water shoots outta plug hole, you've prob pushed a head gasket and need to replace it. i hardly ever see any local friends reverb and not hurt at least something water doesn't compress

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

  7. #5
    Member Powerstroke W/smoke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    88

    Default

    thanks for the info. I think the problem is that it is running too cold because i don't have a thermostat. also i do not have a pressure valve controlling how much water goes into the headers. I only have a garden hose like valve that has to be manually adjusted.
    Southwind Jet, Ford 460, Berkeley Jet W/A impeller.
    Eliminator Jet, Ford 466, Berkeley Jet W/A impeller, msd, etc...
    All towing courtsey of the 7.3L Powerstroke

  8. #6
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    hugo,okla
    Posts
    11,733

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Powerstroke W/smoke View Post
    thanks for the info. I think the problem is that it is running too cold because i don't have a thermostat. also i do not have a pressure valve controlling how much water goes into the headers. I only have a garden hose like valve that has to be manually adjusted.
    that's called a redflag if i've ever seen 1 do the lil check i mentioned, it only takes 10minutes to know for sure don't forget to check the oil for signs of clean water being introduced into the oil pan as well. i had a friend compress water a few yrs back and it split a cylinder, leaked water into the block.ran fine otherwise
    Last edited by IMPATIENT 1; 11-21-2009 at 01:17 PM.

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

  9. #7
    Member Powerstroke W/smoke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    88

    Default

    thanks a ton for your help. i'll get back to you after i get it checked this weekend. thanks again.
    Southwind Jet, Ford 460, Berkeley Jet W/A impeller.
    Eliminator Jet, Ford 466, Berkeley Jet W/A impeller, msd, etc...
    All towing courtsey of the 7.3L Powerstroke

  10. #8
    Senior Member Boat 405's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    3,736

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Powerstroke W/smoke View Post
    thanks for the info. I think the problem is that it is running too cold because i don't have a thermostat. also i do not have a pressure valve controlling how much water goes into the headers. I only have a garden hose like valve that has to be manually adjusted.
    Yes you need to have a bassett tee valve or other shutoff to close water to the headers below 1500 rpm.
    Boat 405.

  11. #9
    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    okie, lake Texoma
    Posts
    6,278

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    prob not but i'd check anyways pull all the spark plugs outta it, block off the water leaving the motor(if you've got a valve on the outgoin water, just close it) , take the ingoin water hose off at the pump that goes to the motor and hook it to your home water hose. turn on the water at house barely on, walk away from it for 5minutes, 5minutes later just crank the motor over and look for signs of water shooting out any of the plug holes. if it doesn't, put it all back together and call it good

    if water shoots outta plug hole, you've prob pushed a head gasket and need to replace it. i hardly ever see any local friends reverb and not hurt at least something water doesn't compress
    I wouldnt do that, you have at least 50 psi of water press from the house and I(Plumbing contractor) have seen as high as 120psi, I wouldnt put more than 20 on it if it were mine.
    And I know Tom, you said to barely open it at the house, but that wouldnt change sh-t. You'd still end up with the full pressure on it after a minute or two.

  12. #10
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    hugo,okla
    Posts
    11,733

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    I wouldnt do that, you have at least 50 psi of water press from the house and I(Plumbing contractor) have seen as high as 120psi, I wouldnt put more than 20 on it if it were mine.
    And I know Tom, you said to barely open it at the house, but that wouldnt change sh-t. You'd still end up with the full pressure on it after a minute or two.
    i've done it 100's of times hass never once blew a gasket doin it, if they can't handle 50-60psi from the house, they'll never hold up in a jetboat

    i'm no plumber, but if there's more than 60psi on a house i'd be shit scared to own that house. anyone that's ever used sch 60 pvc to run air lines around the shop know what 90psi can do,lol. i'd recommend that you put a regulator on that house, but i'm a mechanic,lmao
    Last edited by IMPATIENT 1; 11-21-2009 at 01:55 PM.

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

  13. #11
    Senior Member 2002CP19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lake Arrowhead/Lost Lake
    Posts
    692

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    i've done it 100's of times hass never once blew a gasket doin it, if they can't handle 50-60psi from the house, they'll never hold up in a jetboat

    i'm no plumber, but if there's more than 60psi on a house i'd be shit scared to own that house. anyone that's ever used sch 60 pvc to run air lines around the shop know what 90psi can do,lol. i'd recommend that you put a regulator on that house, but i'm a mechanic,lmao
    Well I deal with different kinds of systems, but its still pipe. I perform hydraulic calculations to show the effects of the inside surfaces of the fittings pipe and every valve known to man.
    Static water pressure is what the plumber is speaking of, residual psi is a different ball game. It all depends how much water is moving(flowing). If its still then it is static, if its flowing its residual. To understand the true pressure in any given situation both must be taken into consideration.
    Quote Originally Posted by schick View Post
    Hold it firmly on the ground, a few pelvic thrusts should do the trick. If not repeat till satisfied!

  14. #12
    TRG
    TRG is offline
    Senior Member TRG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    5,717

    Default

    "Jesus Cristo!" you are bored huh? Dont think I have ever seen you subscribe to so many threads!
    Quote Originally Posted by widowmaker View Post
    Your condensation in the oil could possibly from running too cold and not getting the oil hot enough to evaporate the moisture in the motor. Some boats run very cold and never get the oil temp high enough to do this. Some boats can benefit from a thermostat style bypass system like rex marine sells. DO NOT INSTALL A THERMOSTAT INTO THE BLOCK WITHOUT A BYPASS!

    A bypass thermostat system will help increase temperature in the block without interferring with water flow through the cooling system and headers.

    Another thing you don't want to do is start closing the valve that supplies water to the engine from the pump. Here is the kit from rex.

    http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...ode=thermokits

    Unlikely that you ingested water throught exhaust valves. It is possible but probably would break something before getting that much water into the motor.

    Do a compression test on each cylinder and check to see that they are all within an acceptable range. Also check the spark plugs for rust marks. Unlikely but worth checking.

    Also make sure that your valve that controls water to the headers is functioning properly, that no water goes through the headers at idle. and that it comes in around 1500-2000 rpm.

    Hope this helps.

  15. #13
    Senior Member Boat 405's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    3,736

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by toddnjuzz View Post
    "Jesus Cristo!" you are bored huh? Dont think I have ever seen you subscribe to so many threads!
    LOL... After having back surgery two weeks ago, I'm kinda restricted on the amount of stuff I can do for like 6 months....
    Boat 405.

  16. #14
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    hugo,okla
    Posts
    11,733

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wanna_be_CP View Post
    Well I deal with different kinds of systems, but its still pipe. I perform hydraulic calculations to show the effects of the inside surfaces of the fittings pipe and every valve known to man.
    Static water pressure is what the plumber is speaking of, residual psi is a different ball game. It all depends how much water is moving(flowing). If its still then it is static, if its flowing its residual. To understand the true pressure in any given situation both must be taken into consideration.
    lol can we just all agree that jetboats WITHOUT any kinda pressure relief bypass at all installed will see at least 60psi from a hard wack of the throttle the point of barely turning on the watertap had absolutely nothing to do with pressure of any kind, be it air or water, the point was to slowly let it build, not shock it like a jetpump will

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95