Anyone experiment with WJ's?
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 15

Thread:
Anyone experiment with WJ's?

  1. #1
    Seriously off center slowride's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Anaheim/BHC- the Shack
    Posts
    2,439

    Default Anyone experiment with WJ's?

    My 21 has a Jacuzzi WJ with a Place diverter and while looking at it, it appears a few mods would help performance. Has anyone milled the extension off the end of the bowl and/or opened up the exit? Anyone make a ride plate for it or a droop that doesn't require converting it to a Berk style?

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Alamogordo NM
    Posts
    582

    Default

    Tom at jet boat perfor. would be a good source for info. He has a new impy out that i am going to try to throw in my wj this winter. I would think a ride plate fot the wj would be easy. We made one for a panther once and it looks like it would be way easier for the jacuzzi, especially with the bolts that attatch the nozzle to the bowl.
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

  4. #3
    What the Hell is That? 72Hondo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Denton, TX
    Posts
    1,633

    Default

    only mod I have is a 4* wedge.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Log off and go float, hang in the party coves, Show and shine on the trailer, fill up the boat, wax it, v-drive, jet, outdrive, and if you got a canoe and your reading this, you sir, need to phucking upgrade.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,464

    Default

    Josh and I have done pretty extensive work and research on the WJ , both with the energizers and working with not only the WJs and HJs but also with the PJX Impellers (short lived NAMJ production) . In spring we'll have a new Impeller and stainless wear Ring combo kit for this jet too after the final testing of the protos .I'm currently running a modified Wj in my 18' Miller /440 Mopar (Ran 80 with the BBC) . We currently build several parts and pieces to repair, strengthen and Improve this jet as well as to allow attachment of Berk bolts ons Heres some "Blog" info from a post on our site and socal that Josh wrote that might be of help Tom
    .................................................. .................................................. .......................

    "In general a 5 blade impeller works best for hole shot and 4 blade impeller is better for max top end (you can liken these to propeller design ie 3 vs 2 blade). There's a billet 5 blade impeller available for Berk but there again top speed is scrubbed off a bit in favor of low end performance. Heres a curve, A Drake pump has a three blade impeller, and when Turbine was developing their SD-312 they also experimented with a 3 blade design and found it wouldn't produce acceptable PSI.

    The look, shape, feel, inlet angle and approximate size of the intake up to the 6 3/4±" impeller mouth is uncanny between the two jets(STD berk and jac WJ).

    Compared to a Berkeley, the WJ impeller has a similar inlet blade angle. The WJ blades are slightly longer, but flatten out and narrow slightly more toward the exit. The flatter exit angle of the blades brings the outer shroud and the exit hub closer together, but the difference appears to be made up in overall larger exit diameters when compared to it's Berkeley equovolent.

    The Bowl is the weakest link compared to a Berkeley, I don't have any actual numbers, but the bowl has less potential for volume. The exit side of the Bowl is actually the true nozzle of the pump, often refered to as the cone. Inside the cone is supposed to be a 1.5" round piece of aluminum with a bolt attaching it to the end of the bronze shaft support bushing. The Round Aluminum piece subtracts area from the nozzle exit which is 3.350", giving it the same cross sectioninal area of a 3" nozzle. It seems to be popular to remove this piece, but keep in mind, removing this piece makes the nozzle 20% large in area which is like changing a Berkeley nozzle insert from 3.125" to 3.49" nozzle insert.

    In the end, in stock form they perform approximatley the same. The Jacuzzi seems to require less maintance, no rope packing to leak or go bad, no gaskets (except for the intake), the plastic wear ring takes the brunt of the wear, Solid Bronze bowl support bushing rarely needs replacing or shows any real signs of wear, Thust bearing is sealed on both ends of shaft and doesn't require drive line yoke to seal front, inspection cover is large enough to throw a cat through and is build very strong.... Josh @ JBP"

  7. #5
    Seriously off center slowride's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Anaheim/BHC- the Shack
    Posts
    2,439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post

    The Bowl is the weakest link compared to a Berkeley, I don't have any actual numbers, but the bowl has less potential for volume. The exit side of the Bowl is actually the true nozzle of the pump, often refered to as the cone. Inside the cone is supposed to be a 1.5" round piece of aluminum with a bolt attaching it to the end of the bronze shaft support bushing. The Round Aluminum piece subtracts area from the nozzle exit which is 3.350", giving it the same cross sectioninal area of a 3" nozzle. It seems to be popular to remove this piece, but keep in mind, removing this piece makes the nozzle 20% large in area which is like changing a Berkeley nozzle insert from 3.125" to 3.49" nozzle insert.
    This is where I was going. Smooth the exit from the bowl, open it up by removing the cone and tuning it with FTN inserts.

  8. #6
    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Alamogordo NM
    Posts
    582

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Josh and I have done pretty extensive work and research on the WJ , both with the energizers and working with not only the WJs and HJs but also with the PJX Impellers (short lived NAMJ production) . In spring we'll have a new Impeller and stainless wear Ring combo kit for this jet too after the final testing of the protos .I'm currently running a modified Wj in my 18' Miller /440 Mopar (Ran 80 with the BBC) . We currently build several parts and pieces to repair, strengthen and Improve this jet as well as to allow attachment of Berk bolts ons Heres some "Blog" info from a post on our site and socal that Josh wrote that might be of help Tom
    .................................................. .................................................. .......................

    "In general a 5 blade impeller works best for hole shot and 4 blade impeller is better for max top end (you can liken these to propeller design ie 3 vs 2 blade). There's a billet 5 blade impeller available for Berk but there again top speed is scrubbed off a bit in favor of low end performance. Heres a curve, A Drake pump has a three blade impeller, and when Turbine was developing their SD-312 they also experimented with a 3 blade design and found it wouldn't produce acceptable PSI.

    The look, shape, feel, inlet angle and approximate size of the intake up to the 6 3/4±" impeller mouth is uncanny between the two jets(STD berk and jac WJ).
    Compared to a Berkeley, the WJ impeller has a similar inlet blade angle. The WJ blades are slightly longer, but flatten out and narrow slightly more toward the exit. The flatter exit angle of the blades brings the outer shroud and the exit hub closer together, but the difference appears to be made up in overall larger exit diameters when compared to it's Berkeley equovolent.

    The Bowl is the weakest link compared to a Berkeley, I don't have any actual numbers, but the bowl has less potential for volume. The exit side of the Bowl is actually the true nozzle of the pump, often refered to as the cone. Inside the cone is supposed to be a 1.5" round piece of aluminum with a bolt attaching it to the end of the bronze shaft support bushing. The Round Aluminum piece subtracts area from the nozzle exit which is 3.350", giving it the same cross sectioninal area of a 3" nozzle. It seems to be popular to remove this piece, but keep in mind, removing this piece makes the nozzle 20% large in area which is like changing a Berkeley nozzle insert from 3.125" to 3.49" nozzle insert.

    In the end, in stock form they perform approximatley the same. The Jacuzzi seems to require less maintance, no rope packing to leak or go bad, no gaskets (except for the intake), the plastic wear ring takes the brunt of the wear, Solid Bronze bowl support bushing rarely needs replacing or shows any real signs of wear, Thust bearing is sealed on both ends of shaft and doesn't require drive line yoke to seal front, inspection cover is large enough to throw a cat through and is build very strong.... Josh @ JBP"
    NIce info Tom, or I guess I really should thank Josh.
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

  9. #7
    Senior Member Josh@JBP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    388

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by slowride View Post
    This is where I was going. Smooth the exit from the bowl, open it up by removing the cone and tuning it with FTN inserts.
    When i typed that up i decided not to dive in to the place diverter aspect of it because the original question was more or less directed at stock configuration. If you have a late model place diverter, the sealing type, it becomes almost necessary to enlarge or remove the cone entirely. I would suggest starting out with a 3" insert to approximate the jacuzzi and tune from their. If need be, smaller inserts than 3" shouldn't be hard to make if that's the direction you need to go.

    just for example, this is a piece i was playing around with for a bowl that had been completely milled on the end, you could actually open it up a bit further before you hit the O-ring groove.

  10. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    546

    Default

    recall an article in the old hb mag where someone did a tech article of installing a berk impellor in the wj, and using a berk wear ring, i dont recall whether they turned down the shaft of the wj or bored out the impellor or both. also if someone will answer, can you not rebore the bolt pattern on a berk or other brand bowl and make it fit the wj also?

  11. #9
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    hugo,okla
    Posts
    11,733

    Default

    we've got a real weird race nozzle that works like a place divertor for a jacuzzi pump. i gotta get a pic of it posted pretty neat looking piece.

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

  12. #10
    Senior Member Josh@JBP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    388

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    we've got a real weird race nozzle that works like a place divertor for a jacuzzi pump. i gotta get a pic of it posted pretty neat looking piece.
    Was it made by Super Jet? We got one of those, we also have a droop drilled for a Berkeley that takes a WJ deflector and a YJ trim plate on top.

  13. #11
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    hugo,okla
    Posts
    11,733

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Was it made by Super Jet? We got one of those, we also have a droop drilled for a Berkeley that takes a WJ deflector and a YJ trim plate on top.
    i guess so josh, i'm not sure. its fully polished, and i think it has a ftn in it. very odd looking divertor nozzle fo sho. they worth anything? bill held onto it thinking we could sell it

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

  14. #12
    Senior Member Josh@JBP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    388

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by IMPATIENT 1 View Post
    i guess so josh, i'm not sure. its fully polished, and i think it has a ftn in it. very odd looking divertor nozzle fo sho. they worth anything? bill held onto it thinking we could sell it
    Not sure, we could probably sell ours but I like having it on the shelf as a conversational piece.

  15. #13
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,464

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by johnray069 View Post
    recall an article in the old hb mag where someone did a tech article of installing a berk impellor in the wj, and using a berk wear ring, i dont recall whether they turned down the shaft of the wj or bored out the impellor or both. also if someone will answer, can you not rebore the bolt pattern on a berk or other brand bowl and make it fit the wj also?
    Johnny this is something similar to what our WJ replacement parts will be , with the exception of the impeller "positioning" (vs bowl and suction) and we are actually producing a replacement wear ring vs trying to adapt the Berk style Tom

  16. #14
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    hugo,okla
    Posts
    11,733

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Not sure, we could probably sell ours but I like having it on the shelf as a conversational piece.
    yeah, they're odd lookin. i'll go by there after work and snag it up, get a pic posted tonite if i can.hell someone may wanna buy it, he's saving for bigger turbos

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

    Jetboatperformance.com

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95