Trailor help ideas and pics
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Trailor help ideas and pics

  1. #1
    Member Project Bahner's Avatar
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    Default Trailor help ideas and pics

    My first question is how do you make sure your boat fits well on the trailor my bunks look to be the right ones but one needs to be raised up if the front to fit boat but how the hell do i make sure with the boat on it.If its off you dont know were to fix . i hear so guys talk about the sides of the boat warping if its not sittin right .Whats the trick ...
    Also my trailor has a bunch of sh$% weilded to it and i want to clean it up so id like to see some pics of trailors to get some ideas....Grasias

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    Classic Hotboater! GasGuzzler's Avatar
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    You need to post some pics of yours and take it from there.......(Some of us do better with pictures than reading)

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    Member Project Bahner's Avatar
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    Here u go as u can see they hacked it preety good
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    Classic Hotboater! GasGuzzler's Avatar
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    I would cut all the junk metal off it, clean it up for sure with some dent remover. The outside bunks need to be raised up (taller brace) to help support the bottom.

  7. #5
    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    hey, hold off on the cutting what were the attachemnts for side bunks? help you keep it straight on the trailer? and fuel tank holder? may be there use full. on mine i have the wheel wells carpeted to act as side bunks to get it on the trailer in wind/ fast moving water woorks great. with my bunks they set them up with square stock so you can adjust them very easly, this way you just jack under each mount till it contact the boat enough tighten down locking boat and check the rest, you can keep it like that or weld them solidwhat ever you want. p.s. take the boat off do all the work set bunks in approx the same position do the set up with a ajustable supports. rember when you get the weight in the boat it could sit diffrently on the bunks not the much but it could be a factor (bends wood a little more) good luck. my trailer was a custom build from g&m trailers in b.c. im pulling my boat out tomoro if you replay back tonight or tomoro morining i'll take pics of all features, give you an idea for yours
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    Last edited by lefty's pride; 12-05-2009 at 07:02 PM.
    "Horsepower sells Engines but torque wins races."
    "winners never quit, quitters never win
    those who never win and never quit are idiots"
    "if at first you don't succeed redefine success"
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    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Project Bahner View Post
    My first question is how do you make sure your boat fits well on the trailor my bunks look to be the right ones but one needs to be raised up if the front to fit boat but how the hell do i make sure with the boat on it.If its off you dont know were to fix . i hear so guys talk about the sides of the boat warping if its not sittin right .Whats the trick ...
    Also my trailor has a bunch of sh$% weilded to it and i want to clean it up so id like to see some pics of trailors to get some ideas....Grasias
    Make sure they fit well between the strakes, they push up evenly on the hull, and insure that it will be impossible for the boat to contact anything on the trailer except the bunks, rollers, and bow stop while towing
    Now my OPINIONS: Make sure the bunks are just below the stringers, that is the "frame" for the hull. Also be sure that the bunks extend past the rear of the tramsom, as this is another "frame member". If the stringers and transom are supported you should not have to worry about the hull warping. Dont just cut all that stuff off either. Make sure there is a place for a spare tire on the trailer, and a platform to carry gas cans on isnt a bad idea either, leaves more room in the bed of the truck for beer, camping supplies, beer, food, beer, fishin stuff, beer, sand toys, beer, tools, and did I mention beer?
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

  9. #7
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Heres a before and after of a recent resto we did that included some trailer work . The trailer had some annsulary "accutaments" on it for a jet ski rack the owner no longer wanted ..




  10. #8
    Senior Member flat screwd's Avatar
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    OK heres how you do it . Take the boat off the trailer and cut off every thing you dont want and all the bunk mounts . Get 3 1/2 X 3/16 flat and cut 10 pcs. 9 inches long. Drill two holes 1/4 inch holes 1/2 inch from the sides and 3/4 inch from the end . Measure back off the same end 3 inches and bend 90 degrees . Now you have now you have 10 bunk mounts . At this point you should have your new wood and carpet as well. Roll the trailer back under the boat and level it side to side front to back " hopefully its not twisted" . Using four jack stands place them as close to the spring mounts as possible, this will help simulate the true weighted condition of the trailer. Set the boat down lightly using blocks under the keel at the front cross member and back cross member and level it side to side under the chines . At this point its just cosmetics on how high or low you want it to sit on the trailer . Once that is done apply full weight of the boat to the trailer . Now cut a foot long piece of lumber you plan on using for the bunks and rap them with the carpet you plan on using . If you are doing this by yourself then I suggest screwing each bunk mount to the 1 foot piece as you go "Just makes it easier " . Go under the trailer and position the bunk and mount assembly close to but not touching the strake 1/4 to 1/2 inch should be fine. Reach around and mark the angle that the mount is to be cut and mark the location that the mount is to be welded to the cross member. Label the mount with its location . Unscrew that mount , screw on a new mount and move on . After all mounts and locations have been marked , compare mount angles and locations from side to side . If boats straight and trailer is straight than every thing should be reasonably close. If for some reason one mount is considerably taller or its position on the cross member is considerably different from one side to the next than double check it .If everything check out OK than its all down hill from here . Cut and weld as necessary. By starting from scratch you KNOW its going to be right. If you decide to save any thing it should only be the rear four mounts.

  11. #9
    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    well that just sounds like to much work, just build them like the pic i sent it leaves you with so much adjustability, witht he single bolt at the top acts like a pivot you don't have to worrie about the angle of the hull it will sit as it wants to. then you can set the pressure of each mount as you please. cut out a board for the inside tire well carpet it so you dont hit the wells with the boat. are you running the steel strap to the bow hook, or a winch style. master craft's trailers have an auto latching block for the bow hook it's a cool unit im going to adapt one to mine. makes thigs really fast.
    "Horsepower sells Engines but torque wins races."
    "winners never quit, quitters never win
    those who never win and never quit are idiots"
    "if at first you don't succeed redefine success"
    "why is there never time to do it right, but there is aways time to do it twice"

  12. #10
    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by flat screwd View Post
    OK heres how you do it . Take the boat off the trailer and cut off every thing you dont want and all the bunk mounts . Get 3 1/2 X 3/16 flat and cut 10 pcs. 9 inches long. Drill two holes 1/4 inch holes 1/2 inch from the sides and 3/4 inch from the end . Measure back off the same end 3 inches and bend 90 degrees . Now you have now you have 10 bunk mounts . At this point you should have your new wood and carpet as well. Roll the trailer back under the boat and level it side to side front to back " hopefully its not twisted" . Using four jack stands place them as close to the spring mounts as possible, this will help simulate the true weighted condition of the trailer. Set the boat down lightly using blocks under the keel at the front cross member and back cross member and level it side to side under the chines . At this point its just cosmetics on how high or low you want it to sit on the trailer . Once that is done apply full weight of the boat to the trailer . Now cut a foot long piece of lumber you plan on using for the bunks and rap them with the carpet you plan on using . If you are doing this by yourself then I suggest screwing each bunk mount to the 1 foot piece as you go "Just makes it easier " . Go under the trailer and position the bunk and mount assembly close to but not touching the strake 1/4 to 1/2 inch should be fine. Reach around and mark the angle that the mount is to be cut and mark the location that the mount is to be welded to the cross member. Label the mount with its location . Unscrew that mount , screw on a new mount and move on . After all mounts and locations have been marked , compare mount angles and locations from side to side . If boats straight and trailer is straight than every thing should be reasonably close. If for some reason one mount is considerably taller or its position on the cross member is considerably different from one side to the next than double check it .If everything check out OK than its all down hill from here . Cut and weld as necessary. By starting from scratch you KNOW its going to be right. If you decide to save any thing it should only be the rear four mounts.
    This may be the "right way" but too ambitious IMHO...

    I would cut the tops off of the bunk brackets and make new L pieces of the same width.

    Once that is done, block the hull on the trailer in the rear corners, at the middle crossmember and in the keel area at the very front Xmember about an 1-1/2" above the frame making sure the hull is straight on the trailer.

    Then you can make small blocks out of the old bunks and mount them (temporarily) to the new brackets and with some C-clamps, clamp them to the cut off brackets firm up against the hull in the desired location.

    Then you can either weld or bolt the brackets in place, if you really want to get trick, have someone slot a 1/2" hole vertically in the new brackets so they will be adjustable, I would say not more than about an inch long though...

    I have done several of these, converting from either adjustable Erector set brackets or lowering cookie cutter trailers to fit better. It takes about 16 hours without paint...Use strips of paperboard (like posterboard) accross the bunks in a few locations to check and see where the bunks fit "light", you will not get it dead nuts, but should be able to get close.

    I always try and make sure the hull fits aon the trailer parallel at the outside edge from the rear of the hull forward, they just look better.

    BTW, the lower the better.

    GT
    GT


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  13. #11
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    The straight beam crossing the mid section, needs to go. The trailer seems to fllow the boat shape some what, so buy a couple 4" X 6" X 10' landscape timbers. Jack the boat up off the back of the trailer, about 8-10".....now slide the timbers on the outer frame of the trailer, this will support the hull, parallel to the trailer. Use the 4 X 6 to set the height of the boat, sufficient to clear the jet intake. The existing bunks can be removed once boat is resting on the supporting timbers. You may have to support one side at a time to get the bunks out. Remove all unwanted metal, and position boat carfully, checking final position is correct.

    New bunks can be positioned as needed, brackets fabricated, and welded. Start at the back and work forward, the wood will follow the hull, if there is enough weight remaining in the hull, you can do the front bracket second, and then do the rest. Repeat this process for each of the stringers, work from center out or outside to center, to keep the boat evenly supported.

    Not sure if you can manage a drive on out fo this with fenders , but extended center bunks, help center a boat as it drives on the trailer. A third set of bunks on the outer hull, also helps the boat find center, as the boat approaches the trailer.

    The more support you can give your boat the less it will buck, and bounce down the road. Try and find the were the boat needs to be on the trailer, so the tounge weight will be correct, do this first before any mods.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


  14. #12
    Member Project Bahner's Avatar
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    All this sounds good i can fallow most advice adjusting as i go
    i would love to see pics of other poeples set up and trick thing on there trailor
    i would like to do this once and for all and make it nice
    and i do want to use a wench rather then bar boat seems to tow tighter and dont need the hassel in the ruff water or when argueing with the guy at the ramp. thamks for the pics tom thats what im looking for i like the frnder and step set up looks clean and u can step on the fender and we all know thats gonna happen so why fight it. Besides never yell at a girl that weres a bikini, and stlletos..

  15. #13
    Member Project Bahner's Avatar
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    Default Pictures please

    Love to see pic of tralor with the boats off to get some good ideas

  16. #14
    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    sorrey about that bud it's to cold for me up in bc to take the boat off but i can send a bunch of pics around the trailer
    "Horsepower sells Engines but torque wins races."
    "winners never quit, quitters never win
    those who never win and never quit are idiots"
    "if at first you don't succeed redefine success"
    "why is there never time to do it right, but there is aways time to do it twice"

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