? on flate transom cover(Biesemeyer project)
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? on flate transom cover(Biesemeyer project)

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    Default ? on flate transom cover(Biesemeyer project)

    I have a few questions I would like too ask. I did a jetset back to the transom. Made a 1/4 inch aluminum plate transom cover. I made mine two piece horizonal seam. Most boats I have seen do this veritcal. Is there a reason or just preferance? Also I would like to know with the pump set back should I use external pump braces? I have a intake brace with my rails. Thanks Z Racing

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    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    Depending on how much of the pump is hanging out of the boat and what contours you have to match the plate too....one way will generally work better than the other. I've got a vertical seem because it would be almost impossible to install the plates if I'd put the seem horizontally.

    The objective is to end up with a ridgid plate...no flex at the seams, that fits nicely to the pump and makes a seal. There is more than one way to skin the cat, so do whatever work best for you and your boat.

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    Ok so one more question, how do you guys get the lower screws to attach the transom plate with the pump located against the transom on the inside? I have 4 inchs from center of my plate left to right that I can not get at any nut on the inside. I want to make sure it seals good I want no leeks as leeks are bad. Z Racing

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    My hand hole cover is located just out side the boat, I am running a berkley pump. I have a nice contore to the pump. My seam is located just above where the suction housing bolts to intake running horizonal. What I can't figure out is how to get to the lower transom plate screws with the pump being against the transom. There is an 8 inch wide area that I can't get at a nut for the housing plate.

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    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    pictures might help here...

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    Senior Member tahitijet's Avatar
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    in that area on mine for the first few years i just put a bolt as close as i could on each side. My transom plates are really rigid so it was enough to keep that center area from leaking. this past year when i pulled them off i went ahead and drilled 2 holes near the center and screwed threadserts into the transom then used short 1/4" bolts for the ones you can't get to. I didn't have any issues and didn't really need to put the 2 extra bolts in but it works and holds stronger now.

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    Here are a couple of pics. The horizonal seam is located almost half way between the two pieces.
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    Thanks this answered my question on mounting my transom plate. But is there any difference between vertical or horzonal seam on the transom plate. I also have a post about using external pump braces to strenghten things up. Good idea or not? Thanks Z Racing

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    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    Since I'm lazy and don't like doing the contortionist act with fasteners in the transom, I used these guys...

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...ct.do?pid=1746

    I cut down the tangs a bit though.

    Drill all your holes in the plate and the transom, then pull the plates off, use some washers or spacers on the bolts and tighted to pull in the Tee Nut, then I put a couple layers of glass over the Tee nut to hold it in. I like captive threads rather than using a separate nut...which you'll undoubtedly drop a couple times and spend time looking for.

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z Racing View Post
    Thanks this answered my question on mounting my transom plate. But is there any difference between vertical or horzonal seam on the transom plate. I also have a post about using external pump braces to strenghten things up. Good idea or not? Thanks Z Racing
    I don't see how the external pump braces could possibly hurt anything, I just added some to my junk....
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    is you set back like this? I welded in tabs between the mount flange and the suction flange. The transom plate then overlays this and is sealed.

    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


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