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logs to OT headers

  1. #1
    Senior Member 1975sleekcraft's Avatar
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    Default logs to OT headers

    so what all do i need to do???

    what does the plumbing look like??

    just read something about a water turn off under 1500 rpms??? what is this?? do i need this with my setup??

    what is a bassett ball check T valve??

    i have ran logs forever!! i need all the help i can get!!!
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    Senior Member CK7684's Avatar
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    Plumbing isnt much different. You could do it like mine and use your old TT exhaust tips as water dumps. What you need is the T-valve and a gate valve. You just adjust the gate valve so that the water just starts to mist out at 1500 rpm. The T valve should close it off below that so no water runs to them. Mine work great. I plumbed off the incoming water line, to the gate valve, to the T-valve, to the headers. The outgoing water from the engine I just plumbed into the old exhaust tips (had to make some plugs for them with a tapped hole for a hose barb). This way I can easily switch back if need be...

  4. #3
    Senior Member 1975sleekcraft's Avatar
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    Default motor plumbing?

    does anybody have any pics??

    any help will be great!!

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    Senior Member IRRebel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1975sleekcraft View Post
    does anybody have any pics??

    any help will be great!!
    I'm diggin mine up! Could be awhile. But basically, heres what you're gonna do. Dunno if it's BBC of Ferd or what, but all are basically the same.

    Generally, you have two water outlets plumbed back to the snails (Or O/T pipes) on your exhaust, and two inlets to the engine that feed pre heated water in from the logs. The two inlet lines from the pump will be hooked directly to the inlets on the engine instead of where they were on the logs. Pretty simple there.

    The outlets, 1 will run directly to an Overboard dump, the other to a gate or ball valve, then to the header T which feeds the header water.

    The reason for the valve before the header T is that the T has a ball and spring to limit water at or near idle, but does not work, in my experience, with todays engines (cam profiles, efficency, whatever, they don't work without a restrictive device in any example I've seen, and most run them dam near closed).

    Hope this helps.

    Ray

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    Member TrynPas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1975sleekcraft View Post
    does anybody have any pics??

    any help will be great!!
    Here's a couple of drawings that I collected from this website awhile back. At least one of them is for logs, I didn't look real close at the others, but I'm sure one of them should work.
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawaiianJet View Post
    You done got my kentucky ass all confused!!!

  8. #6
    Senior Member 1975sleekcraft's Avatar
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    Default pics

    Quote Originally Posted by CK7684 View Post
    Plumbing isnt much different. You could do it like mine and use your old TT exhaust tips as water dumps. What you need is the T-valve and a gate valve. You just adjust the gate valve so that the water just starts to mist out at 1500 rpm. The T valve should close it off below that so no water runs to them. Mine work great. I plumbed off the incoming water line, to the gate valve, to the T-valve, to the headers. The outgoing water from the engine I just plumbed into the old exhaust tips (had to make some plugs for them with a tapped hole for a hose barb). This way I can easily switch back if need be...
    how about a pic of your adapter on old exhaust tips??

    thanx for the help!!

    any pis are welcome, thanx again

  9. #7
    Senior Member lowgear351's Avatar
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    try going to www.bassettracing.com click on the FAQ bar if you need any more help all the info on install and care for OT headders is thear with pics.

  10. #8
    Senior Member Boat 405's Avatar
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    Default Plumbing

    I would say this is the best overall way to plumb headers for a boat without having to worry about restricting the water to your engine.
    Boat 405.

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrynPas View Post
    Here's a couple of drawings that I collected from this website awhile back. At least one of them is for logs, I didn't look real close at the others, but I'm sure one of them should work.
    Although Classic Hot Rod Boats went by the way side, I'm glad to see my drawings are being put to good use!

    I did this set-up a couple of years ago and it works great-


    here's a pic of what mine looks like right off the pump but I have made some small changes since this picture was taken. You can see the size of the valves and the 1/4" refrigeration ss line I used-

  12. #10
    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
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    Default same but different

    Mine is plumbed very similar, but I teed off the engine block feed and used a gate valve to feed the basset tee right behind the seat so you can adjust it without having to climb back into the engine bay with the skin blistering headers.
    here is a diagram I made a while back
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    The basset valve is just a tee fitting with a ball bearing that is pressed against the inlet of the tee by a spring, when the water pressure reaches a certain level (somewhere around 1500 rpm) the spring is compressed and water is allowed to pass through the tee.
    Last edited by 74glencoe; 01-16-2010 at 03:35 PM.
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

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    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Just curious why all you guys run "cold" lake water through the headers?

    I have always used the water from out of the tee stat housing so the super cold water does not enter the exhaust...

    Just the way I have been doing it since I got into jets (20 years), I also like to run heated water through the risers on a log deal, but use the logs to preheat the block...

    Any Pro's/Con's?

    GT
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

  14. #12
    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
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    This has been hashed over atleast 10 times since I joined the forum, and always winds up a fight.

    I think running the tee off the t-stat housing is a bad idea because you then are feeding the block with two lines, and only allowing it to exit with one. jets put out some serious pressure, and closing down the exit to half the size of the entry makes for high pressures and leaky gaskets.

    The guy I have the most respect for on here runs it off the t-stat housing though, so maybe I am wrong. end result= to each his own.
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

  15. #13
    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 74glencoe View Post
    This has been hashed over atleast 10 times since I joined the forum, and always winds up a fight.

    I think running the tee off the t-stat housing is a bad idea because you then are feeding the block with two lines, and only allowing it to exit with one. jets put out some serious pressure, and closing down the exit to half the size of the entry makes for high pressures and leaky gaskets.

    The guy I have the most respect for on here runs it off the t-stat housing though, so maybe I am wrong. end result= to each his own.
    I don't understand your comment. If you run the bassett t off the t-stat. That's one dump line, and in my case the other outboard line comes off the intake manifold below the t-stat. 1 line in...2 lines out.
    Last edited by H20MOFO; 01-16-2010 at 04:08 PM.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

  16. #14
    Senior Member GT Jets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 74glencoe View Post
    This has been hashed over atleast 10 times since I joined the forum, and always winds up a fight.

    I think running the tee off the t-stat housing is a bad idea because you then are feeding the block with two lines, and only allowing it to exit with one. jets put out some serious pressure, and closing down the exit to half the size of the entry makes for high pressures and leaky gaskets.

    The guy I have the most respect for on here runs it off the t-stat housing though, so maybe I am wrong. end result= to each his own.
    Not trying to start a pissing match at all, I am thinking in this way...

    If the lake water is say 60*F (we boat in rivers and see temps in the high 40's) that cold water is very subcooled (the temp below boiling which is 212*F), but if run through the motor first, it will be at least over 120*F, getting it more than half way to the flash point...Just seems to make more sense being is it has to flash off before it will leave the pipes anyway...

    The pressure thing is moot because you can always install a larger dump line, but doubt it would be necessary because the header valve should release it's pressure while the pump makes more pressure anyways.

    There are a number of ways to plumb a jet boat, some are more right than others, definitely do what works for you...

    I was just curious why all the debate...I have found by putting the heated water through the headers, the temperatures fluctuate on the temp gauge a lot less...
    GT


    Quote Originally Posted by Quickjet View Post
    Put a 300 on the back of it, Flywheel it and a nosecone. $15,000 later you'll have a 65 mph pile of shit......

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