Rotted floor......
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Rotted floor......

  1. #1
    Member TrynPas's Avatar
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    Default Rotted floor......

    Well, a buddy of mine was in a pretty bad financial bind so I bought his boat (he never used it anymore anyway). Upon removing the motor, seats and carpet, I see that the floor in the back is rotted out. I plan to cut/grind out the bad stuff and replace/reglass with new. My question is regarding the narrow 'openings' next to the runners. Can I run the new wood all the way to the runners without a problem? I would obvisously have to leave access where the motor mounts are, but right now those areas are full of grease, dirt and water. I think this is where the original problem started because it's the most rotted out. I've never done this type of work before so any tips would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawaiianJet View Post
    You done got my kentucky ass all confused!!!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Rain Maker MN's Avatar
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    First, how much did you pay for the boat?

    Second, how much are you willing to spend to get it on the water?

    The answer to those two questions will determine what you should do

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    Member The Chaz's Avatar
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    I left out all together. http://www.socaljetboats.com/projects/what-did-i-do/

    An I still get quite a bit of grime and water that will pool up back there.

    "The Constitution only gives people the right to pursue happiness. You have to catch it yourself ."
    - BENJAMIN FRANKLIN.



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    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    When I did the floor in my sleekcraft 23' daycruiser, My floor stopped at the stringers. I added drains thru the stringers at the back, then added plywood floor, from the inside of the stringer to the hull. It was just short from touching the transom, wanted it to breathe. I used 5/8" plywood. coated with 20% acetone thinned resin. coated both sides, sanded and recoated with regular resin, and carpeted. I used three screw per side, screwing the wood down to the stringers. Battery trays, engine cover, and seats kept the outer flooring in place. This whole deal was removable if needed, and really cleaned up the back of the boat.
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  7. #5
    Member TrynPas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rain Maker MN View Post
    First, how much did you pay for the boat?

    Second, how much are you willing to spend to get it on the water?

    The answer to those two questions will determine what you should do
    Paid $2k for running boat w/460 and Berkley jet. At this point guess I'll have to spend what's needed. Doesn't seem like it would cost alot, just looks like alot of work. Only the back 24" need's to be replaced, the rest seems to be good. I planned to replace everything up to the front of the stringers (at least, more if neccesary).

    Quote Originally Posted by The Chaz View Post
    I left out all together. http://www.socaljetboats.com/projects/what-did-i-do/

    An I still get quite a bit of grime and water that will pool up back there.

    Looked at this thread breifly, I'm going to read the whole thing after work. I like having a 'level' surface to walk on to get to back of boat though.

    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    When I did the floor in my sleekcraft 23' daycruiser, My floor stopped at the stringers. I added drains thru the stringers at the back, then added plywood floor, from the inside of the stringer to the hull. It was just short from touching the transom, wanted it to breathe. I used 5/8" plywood. coated with 20% acetone thinned resin. coated both sides, sanded and recoated with regular resin, and carpeted. I used three screw per side, screwing the wood down to the stringers. Battery trays, engine cover, and seats kept the outer flooring in place. This whole deal was removable if needed, and really cleaned up the back of the boat.
    Do you have any pics of this after you did it?
    Quote Originally Posted by HawaiianJet View Post
    You done got my kentucky ass all confused!!!

  8. #6
    Member TrynPas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    When I did the floor in my sleekcraft 23' daycruiser, My floor stopped at the stringers. I added drains thru the stringers at the back, then added plywood floor, from the inside of the stringer to the hull. It was just short from touching the transom, wanted it to breathe. I used 5/8" plywood. coated with 20% acetone thinned resin. coated both sides, sanded and recoated with regular resin, and carpeted. I used three screw per side, screwing the wood down to the stringers. Battery trays, engine cover, and seats kept the outer flooring in place. This whole deal was removable if needed, and really cleaned up the back of the boat.
    So you drilled through the stringers? Will this affect anything, especially on a 1/4 stringer boat? What size hole did you drill? Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by HawaiianJet View Post
    You done got my kentucky ass all confused!!!

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    wow what you have is a messsss. 2 ways i look at it. 1. do you like the boat and willing to put the time and money into it not matter how much and do this stuff for the love of boats. or 2. they boat is Worth more in parts at this point. motor, jet and trailer should get you your 2 k back. for me. i do boats like this for the challenge and to learn more. also if you dip into this once you open the glass up grind and expose some of the transom wood and let it sit in the sun and dry out. it it were my project and weather. id cut out the bad and let it sit. this sumer will make it nice and dry . otherwise moisture behind glass is baaaad. if you drill for drains in the stringers be sure to put some resin in the hole otherwise the wood will wick over time and your back to the drawing board.

  10. #8
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrynPas View Post
    So you drilled through the stringers? Will this affect anything, especially on a 1/4 stringer boat? What size hole did you drill? Thanks.

    3/4 inch drain holes, back of the stringer at the botom of the transom, resined the wood afterwards. Water had alway wanted to sit there, was no place for it to go. Water and oil always seemed to make a journey around the stringer, at least til I put the new floors in.
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  11. #9
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    A box fan really helps dry stuff out, set one up and let it run for a few days once you have it cleaned out.
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    Senior Member Uminchu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrynPas View Post
    Can I run the new wood all the way to the runners without a problem? I would obvisously have to leave access where the motor mounts are, but right now those areas are full of grease, dirt and water. I think this is where the original problem started because it's the most rotted out. I've never done this type of work before so any tips would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help.
    Disclaimer: I am a complete amature and a DIY'er.

    My boat was in the same condition. Once I removed the rear deck, I discovered the stringers were also rotten in many places. I ended up replacing every last piece of wood on the boat.

    I drilled a 1" hole in the aft of both stringers after glassing. Then I epoxied in PVC pipe and trimmed it. My aim was to keep the water off of the wood. It's stout and water proof.

    I also did not reinstall the back deck. I left the stringers completely open. This may be something you want to consider as it weighs less, and provides a cleaner look. (IMO) Just have to refigure tank and/or battery mounts.

    Good luck and rent a dumpster.

  13. #11
    Member TrynPas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uminchu View Post
    Disclaimer: I am a complete amature and a DIY'er.

    My boat was in the same condition. Once I removed the rear deck, I discovered the stringers were also rotten in many places. I ended up replacing every last piece of wood on the boat.

    I drilled a 1" hole in the aft of both stringers after glassing. Then I epoxied in PVC pipe and trimmed it. My aim was to keep the water off of the wood. It's stout and water proof.

    I also did not reinstall the back deck. I left the stringers completely open. This may be something you want to consider as it weighs less, and provides a cleaner look. (IMO) Just have to refigure tank and/or battery mounts.

    Good luck and rent a dumpster.
    I actually considered the pvc pipe inside the hole, that's what prompted my question about what size I could drill. The stringers seem solid, and so does the rest of the floor, but would it be better for stability purposes to replace the entire floor with marine grade plywood? Don't want to bite off more than I can chew, but maybe it would just be easier/better in the long run. I can only really see myself in this boat for 3 years at the most, so maybe I should stick to fixing what is bad and keep costs down. By the way, can you get marine grade plywood anywhere? Haven't looked yet. Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by HawaiianJet View Post
    You done got my kentucky ass all confused!!!

  14. #12
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    IMO marine grade is way over kill, and probly less effective at absorbing resin to seal it up. Pressure treated plywood is useless, no strength, and nothing sticks to it. Regular ac or bc plywood is up to the task, and 5/8" thickness if coated with resin on both sides and glassed with mat over the top.
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  15. #13
    Senior Member Uminchu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    IMO marine grade is way over kill, and probly less effective at absorbing resin to seal it up. Pressure treated plywood is useless, no strength, and nothing sticks to it. Regular ac or bc plywood is up to the task, and 5/8" thickness if coated with resin on both sides and glassed with mat over the top.
    That's what I used. (A-C regular 5/8) I painted the "inside" with a few coats of poly U paint, and glassed it in on top. Since it's a quarter stringer boat, I wanted to ensure the deck forward of the athwartship piece (just fwd of the engine) had a solid structure.

  16. #14
    Senior Member Rain Maker MN's Avatar
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    Don't be afraid to price the marine plywood just see how much more it will cost....it has come down a bit in price over the last few years. Might not be much more to go marine

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