So I broke a push rod.....
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So I broke a push rod.....

  1. #1
    Member Jethro Jugbottom's Avatar
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    Default So I broke a push rod.....

    Upon inspection I need to replace my cam shaft, lifters and push rods....

    The problem is that one of the lobes on my cam shaft has been ground down and there is metal shavings in my engine...

    What should I do to make sure I've removed all of the metal?

    Will an oil bath due? Or should I take it to a shop to have them take a look at it?

    I would hate to do all this work just to have my motor seize.

    Thanks,

    ~J

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    Senior Member Xtreme 1's Avatar
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    Do yourself a favor..... pull that engine and go through it.. a little now will save alot later.. The damage has already been done theres use crying about it. If you fix it right this time she most likely wont let you down this summer just my .02... You may only need Bearings, gaskets and time at this point..If you run it and she pops, you will be going Bigger on the next one. The fact that you most likely will need a crank and pistons possibly heads and that is not cheap... Check it out and dont let your friends down on that River trip this year...
    Last edited by Xtreme 1; 03-30-2010 at 11:18 PM.

  4. #3
    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jethro Jugbottom View Post
    Upon inspection I need to replace my cam shaft, lifters and push rods....

    The problem is that one of the lobes on my cam shaft has been ground down and there is metal shavings in my engine...

    What should I do to make sure I've removed all of the metal?

    Will an oil bath due? Or should I take it to a shop to have them take a look at it?

    I would hate to do all this work just to have my motor seize.

    Thanks,

    ~J
    I pulled one apart for a board member last summer and found metal throughout the entire engine. Spent about three hours picking metal out of the piston skirts, replaced the bearings (which had only been run one hour), including the cam bearings, and also the oil pump had significant damage.

    You should plan on taking it apart and cleaning it very carefully.

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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    What they said. Don't try flushing it, it won't work.

    I lost a lobe on my Hyd. cam 2 years ago on break in. Replaced it in boat with new cam and lifters, blew oil lines, ran and dumped oil and filter THREE times on trailer.
    Put about 5 hours on it and ruined entire short block.

    (New short, including block, Eagle steely, H-beams, Hyd. ROLLER, lifters , pistons, gaskets, rings, and balance job = $5200.00 and a LOT of labor and lost time)

    Pull it, don't short cut it.
    Last edited by thatguy; 03-31-2010 at 05:47 AM.
    Tommy
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
    "So as through a glass, and darkly
    The age long strife I see
    Where I fought in many guises,
    Many names, but always me."

    Gen. George S Patton

  7. #5
    classic hot boater Orange Peel's Avatar
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    Default cam

    I lost the cam and lifters in a 454 I had a few years ago,6 lifters and lobes
    and also broke a push rod and bent others....

    I pulled the engine,left it on the picker,droped the pan, flushed her out, put new cam ,lifters and push rods, put it back it the boat and ran it for 2 years and the only problem I had was when I pulled it out to do my blower engine the oil screen was coverd in RTV....I guess I went a little crazy with it??

    When all this happed the engine filled with water and we didn't even change the cam or any bearings?

    But I have grown a little now and would say take it and have it done right,
    it will last longer and make you fell better about layin into!

    Good Luck

  8. #6
    Member Jethro Jugbottom's Avatar
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    So my plan was to take it completely apart flush it with some marvel mystery oil, and then put it back together with the new cam shaft, lifters, and push rods. Do you think I should replace my bearings also for good measure?

    How can you tell if a bearing's gone bad?

    ~J

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    This is what I found in mine...


    These will not be used again in my mill.
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  10. #8
    Member Jethro Jugbottom's Avatar
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    This is my first time rebuilding a motor....

    (I have experienced help)

    What am I looking at in this pic?

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    J J,

    You are looking at the crank shaft main cap bearings.

  12. #10
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    Here is a pic of my #4 cam bearing. The oil hole is filled with metal shavings. I would say I was living on barrowed time. Luckily I caught this prior to a real bad failure.


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  13. #11
    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jethro Jugbottom View Post
    So my plan was to take it completely apart flush it with some marvel mystery oil, and then put it back together with the new cam shaft, lifters, and push rods. Do you think I should replace my bearings also for good measure?

    How can you tell if a bearing's gone bad?

    ~J
    Quote Originally Posted by Jethro Jugbottom View Post
    This is my first time rebuilding a motor....

    (I have experienced help)

    What am I looking at in this pic?

    You are going to need to tear the engine down completely. The block needs to be carefully washed with proper brushes for the oil passages, and you should probably plan on doing that with the cam bearings removed. Make sure you pull all of the pipe plugs as well. I usually do a three step wash, first with solvent, then with a strong soap and water solution, then a third time with a milder soap solution, using the brushes each step, and a high pressure water nozzle rinse in between each step.

    Don't forget to use a brush to clean the passages in the crankshaft since that would immediately contaminate new bearings. As I mentioned before, look the pistons over carefully, any steel embedded in the skirts will be tearing up the cylinder walls.

    Open the oil pump up, any loose metal would have passed through it before going to the oil filter.

    As long as you are going to take the time to tear it down, may as well make sure it's right before putting it back together, it won't get any cheaper or easier the 2nd time around.

  14. #12
    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by obnoxious001 View Post

    As long as you are going to take the time to tear it down, may as well make sure it's right before putting it back together, it won't get any cheaper or easier the 2nd time around.
    Amen! Truer words were never spoken!
    Tommy
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
    "So as through a glass, and darkly
    The age long strife I see
    Where I fought in many guises,
    Many names, but always me."

    Gen. George S Patton

  15. #13
    Ralphs club member LSXINDUSTRIES's Avatar
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    Take it apart, clean it, check bearings and clearances, reassemble with a ROLLER camshaft and hit the lake! I wont run a flat tappet camshaft anymore, ive seen waaay to many cams fail for no apparent reason lately. Some say newer oils lack additives necessary, some say lifter MFG's are putting out a crappy product. All i know is that BBC motors are notorious for eating cams, and i'd spend the extra couple hundred $$ on a roller and not worry about doing it again. And AGAIN. AND AGAIN!
    “I am on a drug. It’s called Charlie Sheen. It’s not available because if you try it, you will die. Your face will melt off, and your children will weep over your exploded body.”



  16. #14
    Senior Member Texgo's Avatar
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    Those bearing shells should be nearly solid gray. All of the copper colored patches are where the bearing surface has been ground off by something abrasive. If you have a clean garage and you can't make a mess, I would strip that block and go get the thing hot tanked and cleaned at a shop. Yeah, it might cost a little, but when you get it back it will be clean for sure.

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