Is this too much angle?
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Is this too much angle?

  1. #1
    Wet
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    Default Is this too much angle?


    I hope not.

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  3. #2
    i'm back!! 1QuickCP's Avatar
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    yes...thats not good at all

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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Gonna have to drop the engine just a little, keep an eye on the oil pan.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
    H8-2-W8
    [email protected] first pass

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  6. #4
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Yea..way too much angle. Hope you have room to drop the motor some without changing oil pans.


    1984 Youngblood TX-19 SOLD

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    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
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    Yes. You only want 2*.
    No Fool Like A Old Fool is there?

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    Super Moderator HammerDown's Avatar
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    Bill, this appears to be what you have now >just opposite. The pump shaft and crank 'may be parallel' but not in line


    For longevity, the below is where you should be. The very bottom example is a 'exaggerated' 2 degrees down on the engine crank > or it could be 2 degrees up too ^
    <img src=http://www.performanceboats.com/gallery/data/500/medium/06-30-11_1234.jpg border=0 alt= />

  9. #7
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Yea you want just enough angle to allow the needle bearings to roll.


    1984 Youngblood TX-19 SOLD

  10. #8
    Wet
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    Shit! Well, I have at least an inch clearance under the pan, so in theory, I should be able to lower it, but I have two options for doing so. Neither one if them are pretty, so which is the lesser of two evils? The rear plates have plenty of material for me to drop the rear. The front plates do not have enough material for me to drop, and still be able to support the front of the engine. As it stands now, there is appx 3/8" material between the fuel pump cutout, and the leg. The plates are 1/2".

    Option 1:
    Pull all 12 rail bolts, dowel the holes, and drill 12 more (offset)
    and lower the package.

    Option 2:
    Cut the rear plates to clearance. Shorten the rails.
    (I have a lot of rail material).
    Use a second, yet short rail system for the front mount? It would be 6 less holes. It would be a stepped rail.

  11. #9
    Senior Member cyclone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wet Dream View Post
    Shit! Well, I have at least an inch clearance under the pan, so in theory, I should be able to lower it, but I have two options for doing so. Neither one if them are pretty, so which is the lesser of two evils? The rear plates have plenty of material for me to drop the rear. The front plates do not have enough material for me to drop, and still be able to support the front of the engine. As it stands now, there is appx 3/8" material between the fuel pump cutout, and the leg. The plates are 1/2".

    Option 1:
    Pull all 12 rail bolts, dowel the holes, and drill 12 more (offset)
    and lower the package.

    Option 2:
    Cut the rear plates to clearance. Shorten the rails.
    (I have a lot of rail material).
    Use a second, yet short rail system for the front mount? It would be 6 less holes. It would be a stepped rail.

    I'd do whatever I could so that I didn't drill more holes in the boat.
    Cut the rear plate down and build a new front one. It will look much better that way.

  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclone View Post
    I'd do whatever I could so that I didn't drill more holes in the boat.
    Cut the rear plate down and build a new front one. It will look much better that way.
    X2 The motor and pump should be at approx 4 degrees each with driveshaft offset 1-2 degrees. Is your engine at 4 degrees now. May be you can cut the rear plate down enough to get the driveline angle better. That way you don't drill anymore holes in stringers. I'd remove the rear motor plate, install the driveline , and lower rear of engine and check angle before cutting anything.
    Last edited by Wicked Performance Boats; 05-17-2010 at 09:08 AM. Reason: bad spelling

  13. #11
    Senior Member sleekcraft137's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wet Dream View Post
    Shit! Well, I have at least an inch clearance under the pan, so in theory, I should be able to lower it, but I have two options for doing so. Neither one if them are pretty, so which is the lesser of two evils? The rear plates have plenty of material for me to drop the rear. The front plates do not have enough material for me to drop, and still be able to support the front of the engine. As it stands now, there is appx 3/8" material between the fuel pump cutout, and the leg. The plates are 1/2".

    Option 1:
    Pull all 12 rail bolts, dowel the holes, and drill 12 more (offset)
    and lower the package.

    Option 2:
    Cut the rear plates to clearance. Shorten the rails.
    (I have a lot of rail material).
    Use a second, yet short rail system for the front mount? It would be 6 less holes. It would be a stepped rail.
    does the front of the motor even need to drop? if you drop the rear and not the front the angle would probably be right where you need it.

  14. #12
    Wet
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    The pump cl and crank cl are 1* apart. The elevation is the issue. I suppose I could try to remove the rear plate and see how the motor angle looks to the boat. The OTs have plenty of room.

  15. #13
    Senior Member Josh@JBP's Avatar
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    As a last resort you might be able to flip the rails, would be a better alternative to drilling more holes.
    Last edited by [email protected]; 05-17-2010 at 10:59 AM.

  16. #14
    Wet
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    As a last resort you might be able to flip the rails, would be a better alternative to drilling more holes.
    Good idea, but the holes are staggered.

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