Ride plate and shoe tuning.
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 19

Thread:
Ride plate and shoe tuning.

  1. #1
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default Ride plate and shoe tuning.

    I havent messed with this kind of setup before.
    Which should i adjust first?
    What is the propper reaction of the boat?
    I understand to make small changes at a time, then run it, adjust it, run it....etc
    for example if the boat runs too wet, adjust what?
    if it porpoises, adjust what?

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Junior Member sangnbang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Norco, CA
    Posts
    9

    Default

    the ride plate should never be angled down below the keel of the boat. If the boat is porpoising, use the place diverter (if you have one installed) to control that.

  4. #3
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sangnbang View Post
    the ride plate should never be angled down below the keel of the boat. If the boat is porpoising, use the place diverter (if you have one installed) to control that.
    Thanks, I guess this must be a touchy topic

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    i'm back!! 1QuickCP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    687

    Default

    Ok... the function of the shoe it to keep the pump loaded and to some extent in some designs to add lift and help during shutdown. Add shims to increase pump pressure,ie,deeper shoe in relation to keel line. Add a pressure guage to your pump suction side, pickup pressure about 1 1/2 inches in front of the wear ring area at 3 or 9 o'clock. I usually drill and tap a 1/8 pipe plug and just hook up a temporary guage when tuning,otherwise just leave a pipe plug in there. Use a 0-100 lb or higher guage btw. It varies widely but U want about 30-50 lbs pressure at wide open throttle in smooth water. Id start at like 1/4" ABOVE keel line. You will learn a lot from watching pressure and boat speed.
    The shoe adds drag to the hull so you dont want to hang it down there anymore than is needed, it can also make it really nasty at shutdown so in 99% of cases above the keel line is a good idea. Shoes can also be back-cut,flat,angled ect...I think ive made about 50 different designes over the years, most are in the scrap pile...lol. One for my cp19 is in a velvet box...jk..lmao it should be.

    The ride plate is usually set so at WOT it is laylin flat on the waters surface, or a tad up. Ie if the boat rides 3 deg nose up,plate should be flat at this point. Now this is assuming the boat bottom is done right with no hook or little rocker. In theory if you have a tad bit of upward bow in the plate it would cause nose lift, this bow is put in by cutting the area where the plate bolts to the shoe at a small negative angle thus to allow the plate to bow a tad. But again 99% of the time the plate and angles should be dead flat.You can add small angle stock to the sides to keep her flat.
    If the boat porposes with the nozzel at the best speed position, drop the plate a bit, it nose lift is needed raise it.
    A problem is seen with these adjustments in heavy slower boats , often times the boat does not have the power to get up on the plate so your changes dont really work very well. There I would set the plate flat at the desired ride angle and leave it. you move the plate/shoe 1/32 in a 130mph tunnel thats a huge change, in a 60 mph deal you will notice nothing at all. But a 1/4 inch may work well in that case.

    The best thing I can say about tuning is that you dont want anything "fighting" each other, ie, using the plate shoe as a crutch to solve a problem with the hull. Somesmes you have to. For example 'bowing the plate for nose lift when the boat hull has 1/8 inch of hook to it, yes in may help but having the plate flat and sanding out the hook is the way to go. all I can add is test,test,test,test and take good notes as well....

    I will also add that the first thing is gettin the bottom nice and straight...
    Last edited by 1QuickCP; 05-28-2010 at 06:45 AM.

  7. #5
    "BOATLESS" blender over's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Wildomar/Big River/OcotilloWells
    Posts
    3,468

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1QuickCP View Post
    Ok... the function of the shoe it to keep the pump loaded and to some extent in some designs to add lift and help during shutdown. Add shims to increase pump pressure,ie,deeper shoe in relation to keel line. Add a pressure guage to your pump suction side, pickup pressure about 1 1/2 inches in front of the wear ring area at 3 or 9 o'clock. I usually drill and tap a 1/8 pipe plug and just hook up a temporary guage when tuning,otherwise just leave a pipe plug in there. Use a 0-100 lb or higher guage btw. It varies widely but U want about 30-50 lbs pressure at wide open throttle in smooth water. Id start at like 1/4" ABOVE keel line. You will learn a lot from watching pressure and boat speed.
    The shoe adds drag to the hull so you dont want to hang it down there anymore than is needed, it can also make it really nasty at shutdown so in 99% of cases above the keel line is a good idea. Shoes can also be back-cut,flat,angled ect...I think ive made about 50 different designes over the years, most are in the scrap pile...lol. One for my cp19 is in a velvet box...jk..lmao it should be.

    The ride plate is usually set so at WOT it is laylin flat on the waters surface, or a tad up. Ie if the boat rides 3 deg nose up,plate should be flat at this point. Now this is assuming the boat bottom is done right with no hook or little rocker. In theory if you have a tad bit of upward bow in the plate it would cause nose lift, this bow is put in by cutting the area where the plate bolts to the shoe at a small negative angle thus to allow the plate to bow a tad. But again 99% of the time the plate and angles should be dead flat.You can add small angle stock to the sides to keep her flat.
    If the boat porposes with the nozzel at the best speed position, drop the plate a bit, it nose lift is needed raise it.
    A problem is seen with these adjustments in heavy slower boats , often times the boat does not have the power to get up on the plate so your changes dont really work very well. There I would set the plate flat at the desired ride angle and leave it. you move the plate/shoe 1/32 in a 130mph tunnel thats a huge change, in a 60 mph deal you will notice nothing at all. But a 1/4 inch may work well in that case.

    The best thing I can say about tuning is that you dont want anything "fighting" each other, ie, using the plate shoe as a crutch to solve a problem with the hull. Somesmes you have to. For example 'bowing the plate for nose lift when the boat hull has 1/8 inch of hook to it, yes in may help but having the plate flat and sanding out the hook is the way to go. all I can add is test,test,test,test and take good notes as well....

    I will also add that the first thing is gettin the bottom nice and straight...


    great post!

  8. #6
    i'm back!! 1QuickCP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    687

    Default

    thanks there is so many combos it has driven me to drink over the years...lmao

  9. #7
    "BOATLESS" blender over's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Wildomar/Big River/OcotilloWells
    Posts
    3,468

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1QuickCP View Post
    thanks there is so many combos it has driven me to drink over the years...lmao

    i think i will be asking you alot of questions in the near future regarding my avatar, ok.... here is the first, is setting up a american turbine pump the same as a berkley?

    the man i bought my CP from is 65yrs old, boat has 6hrs on it, NOTHING has been touched "set up wise" to the boat ever!!

  10. #8
    Sophomore Member UltraRS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Riverside/B.R.
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blender over View Post
    great post!
    1QuickCP, that really is an XLNT post. You should write a book!!! I'll have to try some of the things you suggested...
    BTW, good luck Kev...
    Last edited by UltraRS; 05-28-2010 at 05:17 PM.

  11. #9
    i'm back!! 1QuickCP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    687

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blender over View Post
    i think i will be asking you alot of questions in the near future regarding my avatar, ok.... here is the first, is setting up a american turbine pump the same as a berkley?

    the man i bought my CP from is 65yrs old, boat has 6hrs on it, NOTHING has been touched "set up wise" to the boat ever!!
    yup they all are basicly the same. Its probably pretty darn close depending what you have for motor...

    Think about this one small tuning area, nozzel size..from 3" to 3.4" in 1/8 steps, every time you change it the pressure changes so the shoe changes....well to find the perfect setup for a boat, lol...thats about 1 years testing just think of how many possible combos there are for that alone...5 diameters with 5 shoe depths each, or 125 combinations...arghhhhhhhhhhhh !!!
    Last edited by 1QuickCP; 05-28-2010 at 06:40 PM.

  12. #10
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    Thanks for the great post 1quick
    Last edited by sandeggo; 05-29-2010 at 06:35 AM.

  13. #11
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    I have a mid speed porpoise now that isn't extremely horrible. It starts around 2800 and goes to about 4000ish. When I hammer it, the bow bounces twice and it takes a pretty decent set. Should I get a diverter for the low speed bounce?

  14. #12
    classic hot boater Orange Peel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Mt. Island NC
    Posts
    1,174

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sandeggo View Post
    I have a mid speed porpoise now that isn't extremely horrible. It starts around 2800 and goes to about 4000ish. When I hammer it, the bow bounces twice and it takes a pretty decent set. Should I get a diverter for the low speed bounce?
    I would!
    They are great, not only will this help with problem you have, it will also let you trim for better top speed.When I put mine about 3-4ft off the water the boat really seems to come alive at any RPM. Also I would go with the hydraulic set up if you pocket can handle it.
    Never forget where you come from,no matter where you are going.

  15. #13
    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orange CA, Big River
    Posts
    4,549

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sandeggo View Post
    I have a mid speed porpoise now that isn't extremely horrible. It starts around 2800 and goes to about 4000ish. When I hammer it, the bow bounces twice and it takes a pretty decent set. Should I get a diverter for the low speed bounce?
    After watching you run the snot out of that thing, i would say to invest in a P/D. It will help your launch and you can tune the attitude of the boat as well. Boat looked really good out there in that crap water... and it runs really good for ther power it has. Good job so far, keep up the good work bud.

  16. #14
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    After watching you run the snot out of that thing, i would say to invest in a P/D. It will help your launch and you can tune the attitude of the boat as well. Boat looked really good out there in that crap water... and it runs really good for ther power it has. Good job so far, keep up the good work bud.
    Thanks, I was able to get some good water last night and this afternoon and she really runs good. I got a little oil leak to address but so far I'm very happy with the new tunnelram and bottom setup. I am anxious to gps it next time out

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95