wiring gurus help needed
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread:
wiring gurus help needed

  1. #1
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default wiring gurus help needed

    This is my first time wiring a boat. please tell me if i have any errors.
    I already have the wire size figured out and there was only 9 wires in the boat previously. (should be easy, i know)

    • The hot lead goes from the alt (1wire) to one post of the ammeter and the other post, to the battery.
    • should the ammeter post be the one i use to jumper the hots to the other gauges?
    • The distributor has a pertronix in it with red and black wires coming out. these go to the coil.
    • I still have to figure out how to wire up the msd box.
    • for the bilge pump, its an auto and has the 3 wires. do i connect the 2 positives together to wire it to a 2 pole push pull switch? Also the IGN. switch is a 3 pole, so how would i wire the bilge to be on even if the key is off?
    Last edited by sandeggo; 05-25-2010 at 07:42 AM.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Glendale Arizona Squirtcha?'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Glendale Arizona
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    This is my first time wiring a boat. please tell me if i have any errors.
    I already have the wire size figured out and there was only 9 wires in the boat previously. (should be easy, i know)

    I'm no guru, but maybe this will help.

    The hot lead goes from the alt (1wire) to one post of the ammeter and the other post, to the battery. Should the ammeter post be the one i use to jumper the hots to the other gauges?

    First off the gauges should be wired up to key'd 12 volts (not always hot) so they only work when the key is on. When it comes to jumpering, it's jumpered, and doesn't matter where it starts or ends at. It's going to be keyed 12 volts everywhere it's hooked up. Personally I'd dump the ampmeter and go with a voltage gauge.


    The distributor has a pertronix in it with red and black wires coming out. these go to the coil.

    That part is incorrect. See the photo below.

    Here's a link on how to hook up an MSD to...........well anything just about.

    http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedF...DTN_pn9615.pdf

    I still have to figure out how to wire up the msd box.

    There's a wiring diagram on the back of the box. Or you can follow the link I put up. Basically the heavy black goes to ground (engine block or battery). Heavy red goes to + post on battery. Light weight red is key on power (+12 volts when key is in run position) usually purple wire from dash). Tach connects to the end of the box (where it's marked tach). The short two wire connector is for the distributor. Light weight orange and black go to the coil + and - respectively..

    for the bilge pump, its an auto and has the 3 wires. do i connect the 2 positives together to wire it to a 2 pole push pull switch? Also the IGN. switch is a 3 pole, so how would i wire the bilge to be on even if the key is off?

    Also a wiring diagram that comes with the pump. If it's a Rule, here's the way I do mine though. Disregard the brown wire with the white stripe. Connect the black wire to engine block or battery negative (ground). The only wire left (brown) goes to a switch on the dash that has 12 volts on it all the time (not keyed, but always hot) usually will be a heavy red wire at the dash. When you're on the water leave that switch on all the time. The pump will kick on only when needed (flipper switch), or every 5 minutes (electronic) depending on what kind of automatic pump you bought. When you get off the water, turn the switch off.

    You can accidentally leave it on for days literally and it won't drain the battery. Automatic Bilge pumps use very little power. I've left mine on in the garage for a whole week once and it didn't drain the battery.



    Did you use the correct wire colors, or just pick some out? There might be some color descrepancies in the information above if you didn't use the right ones in your wiring.


    This is for a Pertronix module, not the distributor, but it should be the same. Page 41 in the manual link I put above.

    Last edited by Squirtcha?; 05-25-2010 at 09:13 AM.

  4. #3
    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orange CA, Big River
    Posts
    4,549

    Default

    That about covers it......

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member slow67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    DFW
    Posts
    310

    Default

    If the Bilge is a 3 wire, it probably has an internal float switch (will come on if the water is too high whether the key is on or not) and a manual over-ride (force it to come on, key on only)

  7. #5
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    When you see me this weekend Dan, flag me down, I owe u a beer margarita or jäger bomb

  8. #6
    Glendale Arizona Squirtcha?'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Glendale Arizona
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by slow67 View Post
    If the Bilge is a 3 wire, it probably has an internal float switch (will come on if the water is too high whether the key is on or not) and a manual over-ride (force it to come on, key on only)
    This what I assumed he had. They're pretty freaking cool and work better than the float switch ones IMO.

    Rule Pumps 12 Volt DC Automatic Bilge Pumps 500 GPH - 2000 GPH feature computerized operation on the principle of impeller resistance. Float switches are not required. The pump will turn on every 2-1/2 minutes to sense for water. If water is present, the pump will sense resistance and continue to run until all the water is removed. Thereafter, it will check for water every 2-1/2 minutes.Power use in the checking mode is minimal.

    Quote Originally Posted by sandeggo View Post
    When you see me this weekend Dan, flag me down, I owe u a beer margarita or jäger bomb
    You might want to wait until it's all running.

  9. #7
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Squirtcha? View Post
    This what I assumed he had. They're pretty freaking cool and work better than the float switch ones IMO.

    Rule Pumps 12 Volt DC Automatic Bilge Pumps 500 GPH - 2000 GPH feature computerized operation on the principle of impeller resistance. Float switches are not required. The pump will turn on every 2-1/2 minutes to sense for water. If water is present, the pump will sense resistance and continue to run until all the water is removed. Thereafter, it will check for water every 2-1/2 minutes.Power use in the checking mode is minimal.



    You might want to wait until it's all running.
    it is the full auto new rule 750.


    I am leaving tomorrow morning if it's ready or not. I can't figure out how to hook up the ammeter

  10. #8
    Member Rogers daycruiser fan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Orange County,CA
    Posts
    68

    Default Bilge Pump..

    The BROWN wire goes to the switch up front.
    The BRN w/ WHT goes top a constant 12 volt hot from the battery
    The BLACK is to Ground
    !!

  11. #9
    Glendale Arizona Squirtcha?'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Glendale Arizona
    Posts
    2,368

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogers daycruiser fan View Post
    The BROWN wire goes to the switch up front.
    The BRN w/ WHT goes top a constant 12 volt hot from the battery
    The BLACK is to Ground
    The way I use my pump, I don't need the brown w/white stripe. It's so you can turn the pump on manually.
    I just let the automatic feature do it's thing. It's never let me down yet. I don't get a lot of water in my boat anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by sandeggo View Post
    it is the full auto new rule 750.

    I am leaving tomorrow morning if it's ready or not. I can't figure out how to hook up the ammeter
    I've never run one before, but if I remember right, you have to break the circuit and the ammeter goes in the middle.
    It's like it's a part of the circuit. Kind of think of the ammeter like it's a piece of wire.

    Once again.........I'd ditch that thing and run a volt gauge.





    Or this if it's easier.


    Last edited by Squirtcha?; 05-25-2010 at 08:10 PM.

  12. #10
    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Langley, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    402

    Default

    and remember pull your power for every thing but the starter from the alt side of the amp meter this way you see how much is going to the batt and if the alt fails it will read in to the negative to tell you your using more power than the alt is putting out. i will agree ditch the alt for a volt meter. way more effective especially if your sitting around the lake listing to music you wont know till its to late that your out of juice to start the boat. you can still tell if your not charging
    "Horsepower sells Engines but torque wins races."
    "winners never quit, quitters never win
    those who never win and never quit are idiots"
    "if at first you don't succeed redefine success"
    "why is there never time to do it right, but there is aways time to do it twice"

  13. #11
    What the Hell is That? 72Hondo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Denton, TX
    Posts
    1,633

    Default

    Here take a look at this....

    http://www.performanceboats.com//sho...illidie&page=2



    An ammeter is a shunt of sorts. (Quoted by some one else) It's telling you what’s happening between the battery and the Ammeter. The Alt will charge through the Ammeter hence the needle going to the charge side. The ammeter is just connecting the circuit between the two and telling you what’s going on. The Ammeter is ALWAYS HOT, if you piggy back off the Hot post to your other gauges they will be on 24/7. Best way to do it is have the other gauges piggy back off a 12V switched source like the key switch.

    As far as the bilge, I have a Float Activated one. Its 100% automatic (One day that will most likely bite me in the ass) it has three wires, one to ground the other wired up hot and a third Which I don’t use, Brown with white strip if I remember correctly.
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Log off and go float, hang in the party coves, Show and shine on the trailer, fill up the boat, wax it, v-drive, jet, outdrive, and if you got a canoe and your reading this, you sir, need to phucking upgrade.

  14. #12
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Vista, Big River California, United States
    Posts
    1,676

    Default

    Well a buddy helped me get it all wired and we fired it up and were tuning it, hit the key to shut it off, it keeps running. Pull off both battery cable and it still runs. Then pulled off one lead of the ammeter. It finally shut down. Something isn't run right I just haven't figured it out yet

  15. #13
    Sophomore Member UltraRS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Riverside/B.R.
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sandeggo View Post
    Well a buddy helped me get it all wired and we fired it up and were tuning it, hit the key to shut it off, it keeps running. Pull off both battery cable and it still runs. Then pulled off one lead of the ammeter. It finally shut down. Something isn't run right I just haven't figured it out yet
    See if this helps Kevin. The boxes with 50a or 60a are just fuses. Dont worry about those. Double check the connections at the ignition switch. Seems like thats your problem. It kept running cause the alternator kept it running. From what it sounds like it is not wired like this diagram since disconnecting the ammeter would not have shut the motor off. Good luck!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wiring.jpg 
Views:	314 
Size:	158.3 KB 
ID:	76494  

+ Reply to Thread

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95