455 Olds wiring help....
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455 Olds wiring help....

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    Default 455 Olds wiring help....

    So, I went way past my skill level, and bought the standard wiring harness and Terminal Block from CP performance for my 73 Tahiti with a 455 olds. All is well except Im running a proform 2wire distributor, and the terminal block is set up for the stock engine. I downloaded the wiring diagrams from CP Performance, and they are about as clear as mudd. Has anyone used this set up that can help? Where does this terminal block get its power? ALso, I only see one post on the starter, but several on the solenoid....do i need to connect anything to the starter, or just the soleniod? Sooo confused....thanks for any help.

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    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    no i have not used the harness or know any thing about it a copy of the diagram would help. but is there not a tac input for the harness? the other is key power. can't tell you where it gets its power the diagram will help me tell you. When you’re talking about the solenoid and the starter are you talking about a separate solenoid or the one on the top of the starter. If it is separate one there could be a resister by pass post, or it may also be a insolated ground depending on the model if it is separate yes your going to need a activation wire to the start term on the starter. Send the diagram and we can walk you through it, and a list of items you don’t know how to hook up and terminals on them with abbreviations, please separate the items so you don’t confuse us as well
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    "Mad" Member Jet Mad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by My73Tahiti View Post
    So, I went way past my skill level, and bought the standard wiring harness and Terminal Block from CP performance for my 73 Tahiti with a 455 olds. All is well except Im running a proform 2wire distributor, and the terminal block is set up for the stock engine. I downloaded the wiring diagrams from CP Performance, and they are about as clear as mudd. Has anyone used this set up that can help? Where does this terminal block get its power? ALso, I only see one post on the starter, but several on the solenoid....do i need to connect anything to the starter, or just the soleniod? Sooo confused....thanks for any help.
    Have a look at this link, they explain everything very easy. I used it to re-wire my entire boat harness.


    http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10140.pdf


    Wikus


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    Quote Originally Posted by My73Tahiti View Post
    So, I went way past my skill level, and bought the standard wiring harness and Terminal Block from CP performance for my 73 Tahiti with a 455 olds. All is well except Im running a proform 2wire distributor, and the terminal block is set up for the stock engine. I downloaded the wiring diagrams from CP Performance, and they are about as clear as mudd. Has anyone used this set up that can help? Where does this terminal block get its power? ALso, I only see one post on the starter, but several on the solenoid....do i need to connect anything to the starter, or just the soleniod? Sooo confused....thanks for any help.
    You wuz a little short on info..pro form 2 wire dizzy...looks like GM HEI?

    No external coil right?

    Looking at the cap, rotate it towards you until the that square extension on the cap faces you..there should be a 3 wire connector that comes from the dizy that plugs into that....closer towards you from that plug are 2 connectors..the one on your right is dizzy power, the one on the left is tach signal.

    I don't know how familiar you are with what you are doing.....no vacuum advance on a boat.....and i just installed same basic dizzy in my olds....i had 2 different uni-no lites....both had very limited mechanical advance
    The HEI...i don't how much it HAD...musta been almost 30 degrees in it....which means to get the 38 total i wanted..i had to set the initial at like 8-10 degrees.....which will make for a nice smooth idle..as long as
    there is no load on the motor..and as long as all ya want to do is idle....
    Throttle response from idle is way lame.....

    Add to that, mine is set up v-drive with freeway flier gears...to get even close to no wake speed i need a 750-800 rpm idle.....that makes enough power to push the boat.....

    As it ends up i have the mechanical advance limited to about 8 degrees....it start and idles decent..and it got really soft springs so total advance is all in by 1800 rpm....

    so 2 wires..one make it go...and the other one tells you how fast it's going...and if ya get lost..pm me...more than happy to help.....
    mike
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jet mad View Post
    Have a look at this link, they explain everything very easy. I used it to re-wire my entire boat harness.


    http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/10140.pdf


    Wikus
    Which way is that..the south African way?

    Don't you guys on the other side of the equator do everything
    backwards

    The wiring diagram might have helped if he was doing it from scratch....

    Old boat like that..who knows what has been 'repaired"..or like mine...all black wire...all the same size...don't matter to me..only has 1 circuit breaker and a relay for bilge pump and an ignition kill switch for spinning it over if it's been sitting for a while..had to use it a couple time for a hard start hot...and it's kinda handy on the ramp to just crank full rudder and spin the motor over to turn the boat......
    "A liberal paradise would be a place where everybody has
    guaranteed employment, free comprehensive healthcare, free
    education, free food, free housing, free clothing, free
    utilities, and only law enforcement has guns. And believe it or
    not, such a place does, indeed, exist: It's called prison."

    Sheriff Joe Arpaio
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    "Mad" Member Jet Mad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sold honda.bought hondo View Post
    Which way is that..the south African way?

    Don't you guys on the other side of the equator do everything
    backwards

    The wiring diagram might have helped if he was doing it from scratch....

    Old boat like that..who knows what has been 'repaired"..or like mine...all black wire...all the same size...don't matter to me..only has 1 circuit breaker and a relay for bilge pump and an ignition kill switch for spinning it over if it's been sitting for a while..had to use it a couple time for a hard start hot...and it's kinda handy on the ramp to just crank full rudder and spin the motor over to turn the boat......
    My bad, I see now he only needs the wiring for the distributor

    Even our drains empty the other way around.

    How you keeping, by the way? We are freezing our asses of over here Snow on all the mountains around Cape Town.

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    Senior Member Schiada 201's Avatar
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    One is 12v+ the other is tach

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    Default THanks.....

    All,

    Thanks for the help. I got most of my issue cleared up with your info....im going to spend a few hours on it this AM, and see what I can figure out. If its a no go, off to the family mechanic it goes, and back to AutoShop 101 I go. Again, thanks to everyone...Hope everyone has a good Memorial Day....

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    Quote Originally Posted by My73Tahiti View Post
    All,

    Thanks for the help. I got most of my issue cleared up with your info....im going to spend a few hours on it this AM, and see what I can figure out. If its a no go, off to the family mechanic it goes, and back to AutoShop 101 I go. Again, thanks to everyone...Hope everyone has a good Memorial Day....
    Actually,now that i have had my third coffee..on top of the dist. cap it says

    BAT...but don't hook the battery there..

    there should be a wire dangling there that used to run the old ignition.
    that is the wire that needs to go to bat


    .or when in doubt...post pics
    "A liberal paradise would be a place where everybody has
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    education, free food, free housing, free clothing, free
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    Senior Member Schiada 201's Avatar
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    goes to the ign switch 12 + on

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    The original 73 ign was set up with a ballast resistor between the 12 Volts offered from the ign switch and coil to reduce the voltage to 8-10 volts. There was also a jumper wire from the starter solonoid to bypass the ballast resistor durring starting to give the coil a full 12 volts. if your proform is a HEI set-up (as mine is) you want to eliminate the ballast resistor and jumper wire from the solonoid and have it come directly from the ign. switch.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jet mad View Post
    My bad, I see now he only needs the wiring for the distributor

    Even our drains empty the other way around.

    How you keeping, by the way? We are freezing our asses of over here Snow on all the mountains around Cape Town.

    Wikus
    Aw....spring is here....101 today
    "A liberal paradise would be a place where everybody has
    guaranteed employment, free comprehensive healthcare, free
    education, free food, free housing, free clothing, free
    utilities, and only law enforcement has guns. And believe it or
    not, such a place does, indeed, exist: It's called prison."

    Sheriff Joe Arpaio
    Maricopa County Sheriff's Office

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    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlson-jet View Post
    The original 73 ign was set up with a ballast resistor between the 12 Volts offered from the ign switch and coil to reduce the voltage to 8-10 volts. There was also a jumper wire from the starter solonoid to bypass the ballast resistor durring starting to give the coil a full 12 volts. if your proform is a HEI set-up (as mine is) you want to eliminate the ballast resistor and jumper wire from the solonoid and have it come directly from the ign. switch.
    not a true statement starter under load is going to be less than 12v drop from the bat dues to the huge draw. It Aplies avalible battery volted to coil
    "Horsepower sells Engines but torque wins races."
    "winners never quit, quitters never win
    those who never win and never quit are idiots"
    "if at first you don't succeed redefine success"
    "why is there never time to do it right, but there is aways time to do it twice"

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    Hey, this was my first post on this forum, and just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I really appreciate the advice. I got everything going, so i should be at fishers in a few weeks. Thanks again....

    Bry

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