Hooking up an alternator...
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Hooking up an alternator...

  1. #1
    Senior Member neattouch648's Avatar
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    Arrow Hooking up an alternator...

    Hey guys, I've got a question, puttin this motor back together i'm trying to figure out how to hook up the alternator. I figured out that the + obviously goes to the battery, but then i have 2 other plugs, 1R and 2F
    (or maybe its 1F and 2R) either way, a 1 and a 2 with an R and an F under it. Can anyone tell me what these are? I know nothing else about the alternator other than its 100 amp.

    thanks

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    Member TrynPas's Avatar
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    Here's a couple of drawings I've collected. Hopefully one of them will help you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by HawaiianJet View Post
    You done got my kentucky ass all confused!!!

  4. #3
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    I have a problem as well. I have a red wire going to my large post on the alternator--Chevy internal reg- and then a jumper wire from that to the plug in terminal on the alternator. The white wire is cut and does not appear to have been connected From the drawing It appears that I need to hook it back in the red wire that goes to the large terminal, but it needs a switch apparently. I am confused on this. Any suggestions would be apprecaited. I have thought about buying a one wire alternator and hooking it to my battery cut off and to the negative battery term. as per the diagram. If I can get this to work it would be alot cheaper

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    Default Switched 12 V

    Of course the large charging wire goes on the large terminal, then, looking from the back of the alternator, the male spade connector on the RIGHT needs to see 12 V from the ignition switch. The other wire, (2nd spade, on the left) was used for an idiot light on the dash and is not needed in our applications. Just yesterday I ran across a wiring diagram for these that was wrong.....Wired it like above, and it works great.......Ray
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  7. #5
    Junior Member dirtrider201's Avatar
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    Default alternator

    I just replaced my alternator and it sounds like we have the same one. I went to delco remy.com and it will tell what each terminal is used for.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    Of course the large charging wire goes on the large terminal, then, looking from the back of the alternator, the male spade connector on the RIGHT needs to see 12 V from the ignition switch. The other wire, (2nd spade, on the left) was used for an idiot light on the dash and is not needed in our applications. Just yesterday I ran across a wiring diagram for these that was wrong.....Wired it like above, and it works great.......Ray
    Ok, that explains why my white wire is cut. The red wire goes to the Large terminal and then jumps over to the plastic connector that goes into the alternator. This connector has one red wire and one white wire coming out of it. The red from the large terminal jumps to the red wire of the connector. I guess I need to put a multi meter on it just to double check the volt meter guage on the boat before I go crazy. Right now the alternator has voltage going to it all the time when the master cut-off switch is on and the key in the off position.

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Could be wrong but sounds like a GM Automotive type Alternator is used here, one lead (small red I belive) from the rectangular palstic plug typically "jumps" over to direct bat voltage (large lug the has direct Bat) and the other is the ignition "excite" wire (12V switchable,typically back to Violet) be sure to have a diode (radio Shack) in the alt excite wire in the direction of flow to the Alt to avoid ignition "feedback" to the balance of the system Call if I can help Tom

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    Default Yeah...

    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Could be wrong but sounds like a GM Automotive type Alternator is used here, one lead (small red I belive) from the rectangular palstic plug typically "jumps" over to direct bat voltage (large lug the has direct Bat) and the other is the ignition "excite" wire (12V switchable,typically back to Violet) be sure to have a diode (radio Shack) in the alt excite wire in the direction of flow to the Alt to avoid ignition "feedback" to the balance of the system Call if I can help Tom
    Yeah, the feed back deal is why I use the ignition switch for the 12 v source (exciter) instead of jumping across to the charge terminal.....AND the left terminal is not used in our applications........The automotive integral GM alternator SHOULD NOT BE USED ON ENCLOSED ENGINES........Ray
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moneypit View Post
    Yeah, the feed back deal is why I use the ignition switch for the 12 v source (exciter) instead of jumping across to the charge terminal.....AND the left terminal is not used in our applications........The automotive integral GM alternator SHOULD NOT BE USED ON ENCLOSED ENGINES........Ray
    No enclosed engine on this boat. 19 foot tunnel, with a 540 chevy. It is a GM internal reg alternator. So, I can change the small red wire on the plastic plug to a switched terminal, leave the white alone and I should be good to go? However it must have run for some time like it is currently wired-jumper from the charge post to the red wire in the conector. I will check output with a multi meter like it is now, but it does make sense to have the small red on a switched circuit.

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    Update on my alternator. I checked it today and it is putting out around 14 volts. So I guess mine is converted to a one wire somehow. Red wire to the post and then jumped to the red wire on the plastic connector. White wire cut off. I did not know it would work. Fixed the throttle cable issue and a couple of issues on the trailer and it is ready to go. Wish I knew how to post photos or I would post some.

  13. #11
    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    if it is a delco style alt then and it is working as a one wire those two terminals are jumped together the r is for regulator f is for field. if you want to make it a one wire just jump the two. but you have to look down inside the alt between the two terms and you might see a small connector to make it a switchable style then cut out the connector
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