Running on the hose - reverse feed the pump?
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Running on the hose - reverse feed the pump?

  1. #1
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    Default Running on the hose - reverse feed the pump?

    So I need to flush the antifreeze and do some (extensive) carb tuning, so I was going to run the engine on the hose this weekend. I have one of the "Y" fittings to run 2 garden hoses, one to the engine and the other to the pump.

    Instead of the convoluted deal trying to squirt water up thru the intake, what about just shoving the hose up the nozzle and into a bowl vein, and letting the water splash around in there while the hose runs? The only thing the water is doing is lube the impeller and wear ring, right? So the pump wont care that the water isnt coming in the right end? And I doubt there is any water splashing up to the shaft bearing anyway, regardless of which direction the water is coming from.

    Oh- and before i get scolded for running the pump out of the water, this isnt some newly rebuilt super tight detailed prize pump. its an old lake boat.
    Thoughts?

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  3. #2
    mo balls than $cents$ IMPATIENT 1's Avatar
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    feed water thru the intake, not bowl. stick your hand back there when the pump is runnin and you'll feel it blowing air like crazy out jus like a leaf blower, therefore water ain't gonna move forward in the pump and lube the wearring and impellor

    Dare to be different, if it turns out great you can claim you planned it that way.

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    Really? I wouldnt have thought it would move any air. Working a hose in under there is such a stinkin pain...

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    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Your not going to get enough water to transfer any heat energy from the wearing/impeller. Disconnect the pump when running out of the water. Any performance left in the pump will be compromised each time, it is run dry.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
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    I always disconnect my driveline when running the engine out of the water so I do not even risk pump damage- BUT, can someone who assembles these pumps for a living tell me what actually happens to damage the wear ring/impeller? The way I understand it from reading the shop manuals, they are assembled with a clearance- and are not supposed to touch each other. If the pump is put together correctly, and does not have trash in it then they should not rub, and there should not be a problem.
    I can understand the need to cool the rope packing seal as it is cooled/lubricated by water.

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    Senior Member rogerroost's Avatar
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    I don't run mine on the hose anymore, but just a thought as I read this thread. What about stickin the hose in the hand hole (cleanout)??

  9. #7
    Senior Member W.O.T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerroost View Post
    I don't run mine on the hose anymore, but just a thought as I read this thread. What about stickin the hose in the hand hole (cleanout)??
    That would lube the impeller but do nothing for engine cooling. I always disconnect the driveline and run water throught the motor. Then you can run her all you want. just dont rev it up too much.

  10. #8
    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Since spending a bunch of money on my pump, I don't run it on the hose with out pulling the coupler. (it's a 2 piece and pretty easy to remove.)
    BUT, when I did before it was like this.

    See the 2 red valves on the floor? they are in the hard line from the pump. Between those valves is a metal hose bib in line. (It is capped with a metal, O-ringed cap hand tight)

    I would hook the hose up there, and could regulate the water to the pump or motor.
    Usually would run hose until the motor was flowing out, then open the pump side valve all the way and flood the pump.
    Close the engine valve most of the way and start her up!

    When I pulled the pump apart later I could see no signs of heat checking or any thing detrimental at all. I did that for 2 years before tricking out the pump. I don't do it now, but would if I had to for some reason.
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  11. #9
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    I don't know about super tight racing jets, but My Dad had a Islander 19 family jet boat 1974-1980 and we ran it in the driveway often- changing oil, tune-up, or flushing after a day around Antioch/Pittsburg. Never noticed any drop in performance. Ran a flush connector in the line from the pump to the engine- water would pour out the nozzle and the intake.

    One important thing to remember; Berkeleys have "Oil Bath" rear bearings, but Dominators have water bath, so you can toast the rear shaft support bearings on them. If you have a way to put oil or grease into the rear bearing, then it should be ok.

  12. #10
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    Default No easy way

    On some applications there is no easy way to disconnect the pump, short of pulling the engine forward off the spline, and then removing the drive flange from the crankshaft........So, disconnecting is not an option on those applications...
    In reality, the wear ring and the impeller should not touch at any time. While it is true they do get little pieces of stones, dirt, hardbacked bugs, and just junk in there, a short run time, a couple of minutes, on the garden hose, is tolerable on most of the "stock" type pumps. How you plumb it is open to discussion, but cooling the engine is critical, and some water on the INTAKE side certainly won't hurt.........If you have a bunch of money in your pump, I would submerge it at the ramp before running it at all....Also a good idea if you've traveled very far to get there as "road dirt/grime" is a pump killer..........Ray
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  13. #11
    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hollbrow View Post
    I always disconnect my driveline when running the engine out of the water so I do not even risk pump damage- BUT, can someone who assembles these pumps for a living tell me what actually happens to damage the wear ring/impeller? The way I understand it from reading the shop manuals, they are assembled with a clearance- and are not supposed to touch each other. If the pump is put together correctly, and does not have trash in it then they should not rub, and there should not be a problem.
    I can understand the need to cool the rope packing seal as it is cooled/lubricated by water.

    For starters can you be sure there is nothing in the wear ring?

    Have you ever run a fuel pump dry? If so how well did that fun end?

    Rope seal staying wet is important too.


    You know on second thought we should all stop replying to these type of things where guys want to run there pumps dry so the pump shops can get some more bussiness in this bad economy when they need a new wear ring or impeller from running their pump dry. Just a thought
    Last edited by Fonz69; 06-12-2010 at 12:09 PM.

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