so it begins!! floor and stringer replacement....
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so it begins!! floor and stringer replacement....

  1. #1
    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    Default so it begins!! floor and stringer replacement....

    i know summer just began, but shit ive been out twice and my go pedal ripped outa the floor and i can feel the boat twist with the swells of the river.. im not gonna bandaid it.. plus i may have a new motor in the works

    found the glass seperated from the wood the bilge leaks under the floor through a crack in the glass and it just wont hold screws anylonger.. im pretty sure over last summer water got under there and finished the rot job.. not to mention its 36 yrs old... lol

    gonna go from 1/4 stringer to 3/4.. and replace the floor while at it.

    what resins and glass should i use to finish this project.. id like to get back on the water ASAP!! opinions on wood??

    Matt 74 tahiti 468 olds 72 mph.
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    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/matt1840/sig.jpg

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    if you can use epoxy or vinyl ester . if your looking to save a few bucks use polyester. i use 10 oz cloth.

  4. #3
    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sangerfan76 View Post
    if you can use epoxy or vinyl ester . if your looking to save a few bucks use polyester. i use 10 oz cloth.
    what are the diffrences between the epoxy and polyester... strength, longevity, how does it hold up to spilt gasoline or oils?

    i was thinkin 10oz cloth so im on with that..

    sorry for the questions but when i sell this hull to someone else id like it to be a top notch job and not sell them somethin i slapped together.
    Matt 74 tahiti 468 olds 72 mph.
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    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    I used 3/4 marine grade plywood and West System epoxy when I did mine. So far so good. Best tip I can give you is to use a piece of styrofoam sheathing to make a template for the replacement floor. You can get it at your local hardware store. It was much easier to take the styrofoam in and out to trim and fit it than the wood. Then just one test fit with the wood after cutting it to match the styrofoam and I was golden.

    I'm no expert but it really was not that hard. I started mine the Tuesday before memorial day and was at the lake that weekend.

  7. #5
    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Last Mohican View Post
    I used 3/4 marine grade plywood and West System epoxy when I did mine. So far so good. Best tip I can give you is to use a piece of styrofoam sheathing to make a template for the replacement floor. You can get it at your local hardware store. It was much easier to take the styrofoam in and out to trim and fit it than the wood. Then just one test fit with the wood after cutting it to match the styrofoam and I was golden.

    I'm no expert but it really was not that hard. I started mine the Tuesday before memorial day and was at the lake that weekend.
    great tip! somethin ill use lol.. any reason why you chose epoxy?
    Matt 74 tahiti 468 olds 72 mph.
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    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/matt1840/sig.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Last Mohican View Post
    I used 3/4 marine grade plywood and West System epoxy when I did mine. So far so good. Best tip I can give you is to use a piece of styrofoam sheathing to make a template for the replacement floor. You can get it at your local hardware store. It was much easier to take the styrofoam in and out to trim and fit it than the wood. Then just one test fit with the wood after cutting it to match the styrofoam and I was golden.

    I'm no expert but it really was not that hard. I started mine the Tuesday before memorial day and was at the lake that weekend.
    Sounds great. But make sure the cloth and mat is epoxy friendly. Not all are. But West Systems is great stuff. It's what unlimited hydroplane parts are put together with.

  9. #7
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt1840 View Post
    great tip! somethin ill use lol.. any reason why you chose epoxy?
    From the research I did online some were saying polyester has a great chemical bond but no so much when it some to mechanical bond. Some said poly was fine for a floor replacement other said don't use it. No one said don't use epoxy. The polyester resin is cheaper but epoxy didn't add that much to the total cost of the project. I figured since I was already in that deep what's another $50 for piece of mind.

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    Senior Member watergun4u's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt1840 View Post
    i know summer just began, but shit ive been out twice and my go pedal ripped outa the floor and i can feel the boat twist with the swells of the river.. im not gonna bandaid it.. plus i may have a new motor in the works

    found the glass seperated from the wood the bilge leaks under the floor through a crack in the glass and it just wont hold screws anylonger.. im pretty sure over last summer water got under there and finished the rot job.. not to mention its 36 yrs old... lol

    gonna go from 1/4 stringer to 3/4.. and replace the floor while at it.

    what resins and glass should i use to finish this project.. id like to get back on the water ASAP!! opinions on wood??


    Have fun, I just finished redoing the floor, towboard,and transom, on my tahiti, get ahold of
    uscomposites.com they have polyester resin, and mat and cloth 10 oz works great! it took me 3 gallons of resin to redone the hole boat! have pics if you want to see!

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    Senior Member BrotherWolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Last Mohican View Post
    I used 3/4 marine grade plywood and West System epoxy when I did mine. So far so good.
    I'm no expert but it really was not that hard.


    Ditto!!!!!

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    Senior Member jetjunky's Avatar
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    there's some pretty good threads going on this here subject over in the paint and fiberglass section with valuable input from some very experienced experts too. looks like fun to me, good luck.

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    Member Katanna's Avatar
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    Us composites is the way to go. I just ordered 6 gals from them on ebay. I restored a glastron carlson last year with new transom floors and stringers-it was a piece of cake.

    You want to use epoxy, it comes from them in the non-blushing formula, which means you dont have any prep in between layers. Normal epoxys will have to be sanded between layers.

    Great tip on the styrofoam template-I will use that when I cut the floor on my python.

    Steve

  14. #12
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Problem with westsystems is it's not UV rated, unless the 207 hardener is used. The cost difference is considerable, close to $50.00 a gallon difference. Working time and work areas are limited, so your likely to use more than you first plan, especialy if working alone. Good prep work is key to, good adheasion, and quailty repairs. When I started Rebuilding boats I prefered Epoxy for the ease of mixing, but learned over time the secrets Polyesyter resins. Today I prefer Polyester over epoxy resins. Rolling out glass/resin makes a huge difference in the finished product, both by appearance and strength....

    As for plywood, use an exterior grade from the lumber yard, no more than 5/8" thickeness is needed, if you coat the wood, both sides with two coats of resin, first one thinned, so it penetrates the wood, last one to seal the wood. Lay down the hull/ floor binding strip, six inches wide minimum, followed by one layer of rolled mat over the floor, to the hull. You will find the hull is very bullet proof once all tied together. Any holes you need to add to the floor will need to be pilot drilled, as just screwing into the floor will break the fasteners.


    You will find you can shed quite a bit of weight from the boat, by removing the wet wood and using thinner replacement stock, coated with resin. Have fun with the project, they seem bigger than they actually are, set time aside and don't rush it, it will go smooth....
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


  15. #13
    Senior Member matt1840's Avatar
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    Default some progress...

    in the hour i had to mess around after work today i got some done on the floor... tomorrow will be stripping away the foam and rest of wood under the bow, start sanding and cleaning.. i hauled out atleast 100 lbs of soaking wet wood, soaked foam, and about 6" of water in the bottom... the front of the bildge had a crack in the glass and it was seeping through.. hopefully with this lost weight i can pickup some speed? quick question... how hard is it to replace stringers??? ive only got 1/4 stringer at the moment but if i were to hack them out and replace with say a 3/4 is it just as simple as taking the spacing measurement and putting as long of stringer i want in the same location??? this boat i was able to feel twist under hard acceleration and any waves or wake felt like i was gonna break in half.. longer stringer and a bulkhead (which i dont have) should help with this correct?

    here are some pics of what i got myself into.. i opened a can of worms lol




    Last edited by matt1840; 06-16-2010 at 09:55 PM.
    Matt 74 tahiti 468 olds 72 mph.
    ----------------------------------------------------
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/matt1840/sig.jpg

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    Full stringers and a bulkhead will stiffen the boat mucho.. Just measure between your existing stringers and make spacer blocks to space stringers apart and square. Then install full stringers. Taper them at the front so the tips can flex a little. Then install bulkhead, 1/2" from sides and deck. Glass both sides. Good luck. Pat

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