If your intent is to replace the cable as opposed to removing it cut the cable off with a cutoffwheel or bolt cutters near the ster tube nut , likley is the new cable will be flexible enough to allow a reinstall easily ... Tom
Yeah when the steering gets stiff its time to change the cable. Then you find out that the cable is not available or hard to come by so you replace the whole steering system. And yes I had to remove the bell housing and the cable hits the bell housing when it goes back together. Might be able to find a better fitting cable but I was in a rush and just took something Larry's had on the shelf.
The new sytem has alot quicker ratio which took so getting used to but its nice.
did you have to pull your motor? The only problem is the solid steering tube at the end. I am hoping once we cut the other cable out that maybe we can grease the steering hole and work it in.
yep, the tube at the end usually hits the bellhousing before it will come out all the way. I've been able to prop the back of the engine up on a couple of boats, disconnect the bellhousing so it moves out of the way and then pull the cable out. On others, I've had to move the engine forward a couple of inches to get it out. Depending on the motor mounts you have, it could be a fairly easy to do or not.
You may not have to replace your cable though. I've "fixed" quite a few cables by removing it from the pump and letting tranny fluid seep into it. Just attach a funnel over the end of the cable making sure it's below the movable portion. Raise the cable up about 6' and fill the funnel with tranny fluid and let it seep in over a few hours. Sometimes you can speed the process up by moving the steering wheel back and forth.
I've done that to numerous cables and most have lasted a couple of more years. The cable on my boat has lasted going on 6 years now without stiffening up yet.
we just bought a brand new cable for it. So just have to swap them out but the motor is mounted with the hardin mounts to the bell housing so I have to figure out how we are going to do this. I hink we are going to cut the old cable out and just work th new cable in to the steering hole.
You may get it in the hole but getting the nut threaded on to the fitting is where the party starts it just won't line up and you don't want to strip it.
I had my motor, pump, and everything else out and figured I'd do the steering cable last. Boy that didn't go so well. Don't even get me started on the special fitting that connects the water hose from the pump to the motor
If you have the long driveshaft (H-Bar) like my 78 Tahiti does you can squeak a brand ne cable in there, but jus barely. You have to pull the rear of the cable out a bit, unscrew the fitting in the pump, so its loose, leave your new cable coiled up, its much easier to handle. slide the steering rod through the hull fittin on the pump (which you loosened up) Dont hook up the steering at the nozzle yet! now, start the fitting in the pump, and snug it up, now you should be able to start the nut, on the cable, on the thru pump fitting, leave it a little loose at this time. Now rout your cable to the steering gear. Next you may have to rotae the cable housing to spin the steering rod a little so it lines up with the nozzle (steering Bracket) put the pin in it, a stainless washer between the steering arm and the cable end, then a washer on top and the cotter pin, now tighten up the adapter if still loose, the the nut on the cable housing @ the pump. Now feed your cable through the steering head, depending if you have a rack or loop style. That should doit!
pulled the motor yesterday replaced the starter and the steering cale. Just not we have to re wire the stupid thin so the batter stays charged. We ripped out the old wiring and looked at the "typical" jet boat wiring diagram that i found on the website. Also just placed a diode on the new Alternator so it will trip the regulator on the 1 wire. Just confused about the aux selinoid.