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Help Squished Headers

  1. #1
    Junior Member Fuel 4 Your Luv'n's Avatar
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    Default Help Squished Headers

    What did I do to these. OTT Water injected Rewarder Headers. #8 looks pinched almost together and is cracked underneath. #6 similar but not as bad. #1 has crack underneath. Looking for help as to cause, and potential fix if possible before I go looking for new. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance F4YL

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  3. #2
    MPR FAB southwind011's Avatar
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    Default

    Pics

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    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    Sounds like lean out or too slow timeing.
    Duane HTP

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  6. #4
    Junior Member Fuel 4 Your Luv'n's Avatar
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    I will post pics as soon as the kids get home. We have had this boat for 2 years and haven't changed anything. It has always idled hot (this year with more water it takes longer to get out of the 5mph area) 200ish but then drops down to 160 and runs good all day long. 454 / TR / MSD.Could this be a heat issue? I know pictures are worth a 1000 words. Thanks F4YL

  7. #5
    Junior Member Fuel 4 Your Luv'n's Avatar
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    Default Squished Header Pics

    Here are the pics of headers.
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  8. #6
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
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    The tube got too hot and collapsed. a fix would be to cut the flattened tube off and tig weld a new piece in. As for it not happening again while idling out, put the boat in neutral and rev it a few times, it will send cold water through without making a wake.
    Last edited by sandeggo; 07-29-2010 at 07:45 AM.

  9. #7
    History Repeating Storz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandeggo View Post
    The tube got too hot and collapsed. a fix would be to cut the flattened tube off and tig weld a new piece in. As for it not happening again while idling out, put the boat in neutral and rev it a few times, it will send cold water through without making a wake.
    Excellent advice for cooling the headers, I do it often. However it looks like where his collapesed was before the water entry...
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  10. #8
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Storz View Post
    Excellent advice for cooling the headers, I do it often. However it looks like where his collapesed was before the water entry...
    If you look at the middle pic closely, the whole bend is collapsed. Its normal for the header to get hot near the flange, if that heat spreads then this will happen. I would check that end line for a clog as well. That tube is the first tube to take the weight of the collector. Heat+load=flat tube
    Last edited by sandeggo; 07-29-2010 at 08:05 AM.

  11. #9
    Senior Member skippers WFOT's Avatar
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    so he would be a candiddate for short headers and or header braces?
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  12. #10
    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    X 2! On the cloged lines! It is always a good thing to check once in a while anyway! But man that would have to get real hot to do that! IMO!


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  13. #11
    Senior Member sandeggo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skippers WFOT View Post
    so he would be a candiddate for short headers and or header braces?
    I'm betting on a clogged line. With the heat a brace would've helped most likely. It shouldn't be gettin hot enough to do that in the first place.

  14. #12
    Senior Member Boat 405's Avatar
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    Has nothing to do with the water injection. It is running way lean. Lots of guys are running headers dry without problems. What about car guys they don't inject water I can assure you and they don't have this problem.

    See the greenish color on the chrome. That means it is way too hot. Blue and gold are typical of a appropriate temperature.
    Boat 405.

  15. #13
    Junior Member Fuel 4 Your Luv'n's Avatar
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    Thanks to all that have replied it is much appreciated. Two years of running at the lake (Pine Flat deeper water) never an issue vs. 1 weekend at the slough ( Shallow / Silt) now this. I haven't had a chance to pull injection lines to inspect for cloggage. This would be easy fix going forward. What concerns me is how to check for lean creating high temps. I can say late last summer one of the rubber vac covers on rear carb tore, but was replaced. Other than that I am a complete novice and appreciate all replies. Thanks F4YL

  16. #14
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    you might want to try an old trick used to fix two stroke pipes when they get crunched or dinged pretty bad . cap one end with rubber cap or plug of some sort fill it with water cap other end and throw in freezer as the water freezes it expands and pushes out the dent you might have to do it a coulpe of times to get it pretty close wont be perfect but beats buying a new set of headers..

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