dual tank plumbing
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dual tank plumbing

  1. #1
    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    Default dual tank plumbing

    The new boat has dual imco saddle tanks....the dipshit I bought it from had a 5/16 rubber line coming from each tank into a manual selector valve, then a single 3/8" feed from there to the mechanical pump. I'd like to not run a manual selector. I would like to either run both tanks together or a remote actuated selector. Any good electric tank selectors out there with big holes in 'em?

    Also, line sizes...will a -8 feed support 800hp?
    Last edited by lbhsbz; 08-08-2010 at 09:45 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Head back over to IMCO and buy one of their "Super Fuel Valve" selectors. It will flow all the fuel you'll need to feed 800HP. A -8 line should be adequate, a -10 even better.

  4. #3
    i'm back!! 1QuickCP's Avatar
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    I had them put a 1/2 pipe "drain" in the rear bottom corner of each tank. The 1/2p goes to # 8 on each side to a common block next to pump area, then to #12 an filter to #12 to pump. Will support anything flow wise and always keeps tanks with equal fuel.
    Problem is most pickups from top of tank suck. And for liability reasons they hate puttin fuel feeds at the bottom.

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  6. #4
    Cas
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    Pat,
    I switched from a little 1/4" Pollak to a 3/8" Pollak motor driven tank selector and it's worked out real good with my TR set-up. Not sure if the aluminum body is still available.

  7. #5
    Senior Member lbhsbz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cas View Post
    Pat,
    I switched from a little 1/4" Pollak to a 3/8" Pollak motor driven tank selector and it's worked out real good with my TR set-up. Not sure if the aluminum body is still available.
    I'm looking for at least a 1/2"....or something with 1/2" NPT threads in it. Seems everything is 3/8"npt that I've been seeing.

  8. #6
    Cas
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbhsbz View Post
    I'm looking for at least a 1/2"....or something with 1/2" NPT threads in it. Seems everything is 3/8"npt that I've been seeing.
    oops, I forgot to add that if you can find the aluminum body valve, there is plenty of material to remove the 3/8" nipples then drill and tap in 1/2".

  9. #7
    Member Jet Hydro's Avatar
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    Just install a "T" and be done with the valves all together.
    Better to be an "Innovator" than a "Duplicator"
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  10. #8
    Senior Member skippers WFOT's Avatar
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    thats what i did. id rather have the boat more balanced in the water
    1977 Charger 17Foot. jacuzzi golden eagle
    402 BBC tunnel ram with dual 660 fuel leaks on the top.

  11. #9
    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jet Hydro View Post
    Just install a "T" and be done with the valves all together.
    Quote Originally Posted by skippers WFOT View Post
    thats what i did. id rather have the boat more balanced in the water
    X3

    Although I did put a petcock on one side to even the flow.
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    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
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  12. #10
    Senior Member OkieDave's Avatar
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    Default fix the one you have

    you can take apart the manuel valve and drill another hole in it and have the option of running both at once or one or the other or shutting it all off. if you look at it, its easy to figure out. makes me wonder why they didn't come that way from the factory.

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