Confused on Cooling System
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Confused on Cooling System

  1. #1
    Junior Member cal30_sniper's Avatar
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    Default Confused on Cooling System

    Hello all,

    This is my first post on the forums, as I've only been a jet boat owner for about a week now. Last week, I bought a 1972 Sidewinder Lo-Pro in Pittsburgh, PA, and trailered it down to Annapolis, MD where I'm stationed currently. It has a '71 Olds 350 in it, out of a Delta 98 with 50,000 miles.

    I started going over the boat with a fine-tooth comb to see what all would need to be done, and I'm completely confused about the cooling system. It has a water pump (not sure why, shouldn't the pressure from the Jet-Pump be more than enough to push water through the block?). It appears that water is tapped off the pump, run through the oil cooler, then enters the block at the top of the thermostat housing. From here, two lines run to the front of the headers, and one large line (radiator hose size) runs from the thermostat housing to the water pump (runs from where the upper radiator hose would hook up on a car, to where the lower radiator hose would hook up.) I couldn't find an outlet, so I'm assuming all the water runs through the block back to the thermostat housing, and is then dumped out the exhaust?

    Other than the fact that there is a water pump, I'm confused how this system works. Do I have it traced correctly, or am I looking at this wrong? It seems to me like there should be a dump somewhere to relieve pressure. It also seems to me that the water pump would be way over-pressured at the inlet, as it is fed from the Jet-Pump.

    Here's the diagram I drew up in paint to try and show what I'm talking about:



    Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help!

    -Levi
    Last edited by cal30_sniper; 08-24-2010 at 01:15 PM.

    88 Trans AM GTA – Flame Red/Tan, 350 TPI
    86 C20 Suburban - 454/TH700 & HD Towing Package
    90 GMC Suburban – 350 Vortec, 1-ton suspension
    87 Firebird Formula – heavily modified (but totaled) donor car for GTA
    72 Sidewinder 18' Jet Boat – Viper Red/White, 350 Oldsmobile
    (click links to view vehicles)

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  3. #2
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Default

    Actual pics of the cooling system might help.

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    Cas
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    it should be routed like in this picture.



    the difference is that your oil cooler would be plumbed in after the valve coming off the pump. The water pump is not needed due to, as you mentioned, the pump creating enough pressure to push the water through the cooling system.

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    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cal30_sniper View Post
    Hello all,

    This is my first post on the forums, as I've only been a jet boat owner for about a week now. Last week, I bought a 1972 Sidewinder Lo-Pro in Pittsburgh, PA, and trailered it down to Annapolis, MD where I'm stationed currently.-Levi
    oooh my please post some pics, im also a winder owner and love to see others. cooling issue: i have seen this before i dont think it is necessary for the extra pump just more weight and more things to go wrong. post some pics and we may be able to tell you whats going on. but there should be more lines than you pic shows.
    Last edited by lefty's pride; 08-23-2010 at 07:19 PM.
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  7. #5
    Junior Member cal30_sniper's Avatar
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    Here's some shots from the day I brought her home:







    The clear water line you see entering the thermostat housing from the driver side is the line from the jet pump that goes through the oil cooler.

    Hope you enjoy,

    -Levi
    Last edited by cal30_sniper; 08-23-2010 at 07:56 PM.

  8. #6
    Junior Member cal30_sniper's Avatar
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    So, I guess my main question is this. Is the water pump driven cooling system adequate, or do I need to convert to something like is shown in diagram 2, by plumbing directly from the jet-pump to a tee to the front of the block? I don't see any way that it could run through the headers first, as there is only one port on each that I can find. Am I missing something here?

    Thanks,

    -Levi

  9. #7
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    You have a factory style marine cooling system set up. You will find this setup on most inboard and I/O style boats. It allows you to use a thermostat and keep water flowing to cool your exhaust manifold. The circulating pump keeps the water moving in the block, especially when the thermostat is closed. It will provide a very even and consistant engine temperature.

    That being said most jet boaters and high performance boaters choose not to run a circulating pump (hp draw) and regulate engine temperature with valves or other restrictions. There are some thermostat sytems that will work without the cirulating pump, but the engine temps will vary more than the system your boat has.

    The system you have will work just fine and most marine mechanics understand how it works and can service it for you. You only need to make a change if you want to use the hp to push the boat instead of turn the cirulating pump.

    My advice is try it and run it as it is for now - summer is short. After you know how the boat performs decide if you want to make changes to this boat to go faster or possibly look for a different "go fast" boat.

    Doug

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    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Real McCoy View Post
    You have a factory style marine cooling system set up. You will find this setup on most inboard and I/O style boats. It allows you to use a thermostat and keep water flowing to cool your exhaust manifold. The circulating pump keeps the water moving in the block, especially when the thermostat is closed. It will provide a very even and consistant engine temperature.

    That being said most jet boaters and high performance boaters choose not to run a circulating pump (hp draw) and regulate engine temperature with valves or other restrictions. There are some thermostat sytems that will work without the cirulating pump, but the engine temps will vary more than the system your boat has.

    The system you have will work just fine and most marine mechanics understand how it works and can service it for you. You only need to make a change if you want to use the hp to push the boat instead of turn the cirulating pump.

    My advice is try it and run it as it is for now - summer is short. After you know how the boat performs decide if you want to make changes to this boat to go faster or possibly look for a different "go fast" boat.

    Doug
    Great advise.

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    Cas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Real McCoy View Post
    You have a factory style marine cooling system set up. You will find this setup on most inboard and I/O style boats. It allows you to use a thermostat and keep water flowing to cool your exhaust manifold. The circulating pump keeps the water moving in the block, especially when the thermostat is closed. It will provide a very even and consistant engine temperature.

    That being said most jet boaters and high performance boaters choose not to run a circulating pump (hp draw) and regulate engine temperature with valves or other restrictions. There are some thermostat sytems that will work without the cirulating pump, but the engine temps will vary more than the system your boat has.

    The system you have will work just fine and most marine mechanics understand how it works and can service it for you. You only need to make a change if you want to use the hp to push the boat instead of turn the cirulating pump.

    My advice is try it and run it as it is for now - summer is short. After you know how the boat performs decide if you want to make changes to this boat to go faster or possibly look for a different "go fast" boat.

    Doug
    Quote Originally Posted by Last Mohican View Post
    Great advise.
    after seeing what you have, I also agree with the above. Cool boat!

  12. #10
    Cheers for beers! DELTA~HOLIC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Real McCoy View Post
    You have a factory style marine cooling system set up. You will find this setup on most inboard and I/O style boats. It allows you to use a thermostat and keep water flowing to cool your exhaust manifold. The circulating pump keeps the water moving in the block, especially when the thermostat is closed. It will provide a very even and consistant engine temperature.

    That being said most jet boaters and high performance boaters choose not to run a circulating pump (hp draw) and regulate engine temperature with valves or other restrictions. There are some thermostat sytems that will work without the cirulating pump, but the engine temps will vary more than the system your boat has.

    The system you have will work just fine and most marine mechanics understand how it works and can service it for you. You only need to make a change if you want to use the hp to push the boat instead of turn the cirulating pump.

    My advice is try it and run it as it is for now - summer is short. After you know how the boat performs decide if you want to make changes to this boat to go faster or possibly look for a different "go fast" boat.

    Doug
    The cooling system on my jet is rigged this exact way, and I stay a solid 160* at all times, wot, idle, etc...



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    Senior Member hihosilver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cas View Post
    it should be routed like in this picture.



    the difference is that your oil cooler would be plumbed in after the valve coming off the pump. The water pump is not needed due to, as you mentioned, the pump creating enough pressure to push the water through the cooling system.
    this is the right way but as said run it the way it is, if you have issues or decide you want more power etc. change it, just make sure you drain it after you use it( run the motor after you pull it out)

  14. #12
    Junior Member cal30_sniper's Avatar
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    I was under the impression that running the Engine (and Jet Pump) out of the water would have more of a negative impact on the impeller than the positive impact of draining the cooling system. Which is more important?

    Thanks,

    -Levi

    88 Trans AM GTA – Flame Red/Tan, 350 TPI
    86 C20 Suburban - 454/TH700 & HD Towing Package
    90 GMC Suburban – 350 Vortec, 1-ton suspension
    87 Firebird Formula – heavily modified (but totaled) donor car for GTA
    72 Sidewinder 18' Jet Boat – Viper Red/White, 350 Oldsmobile
    (click links to view vehicles)

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    It is not necessary to "drain" the system, no need to run the engine/jet out of the water.

    (Of course you need to drain it for the winter, but that doesn't involve running the engine either.)

    Doug

  16. #14
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    Very good point. Not good to turn the pump out of the water.

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