couple questions on drive line and clearance.
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couple questions on drive line and clearance.

  1. #1
    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Default couple questions on drive line and clearance.

    I put a digital level on the pump intake flange and zeroed it and then put the level on the carb mounting flange and i have 1* difference. Is this ok?
    Also at the drive line and the pumpbrace I have a 1/2" clearance. is this Ok or is it to close for comfort?

    Here are a couple of pics of the DL does it look too straight or does it look ok?







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    I'm not here for a long time, I'm just here for a good time!
    If your not on the edge.......your taking up too much room......Drive it like you stole it!

    73 KONA Restoration http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=10678
    '81 Spectra 20 Facelift http://www.performanceboats.com/user...-facelift.html

    18' Advantage http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-...k-project.html

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  3. #2
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    i stole it fer sure somn blakk paint gets rid of thatt rust silly goose......blakk paint eats rust ya no

  4. #3
    Senior Member holorinhal's Avatar
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    Yea it will get fixed up in a minute. Still have to replace ujoints. Just mocking up right now.....H

    I'm not here for a long time, I'm just here for a good time!
    If your not on the edge.......your taking up too much room......Drive it like you stole it!

    73 KONA Restoration http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=10678
    '81 Spectra 20 Facelift http://www.performanceboats.com/user...-facelift.html

    18' Advantage http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-...k-project.html

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  6. #4
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Default

    Hal it looks fine to me, 1/2" is enough clearance IMO
    remember you need 1/8 to 1/4 inch end clearance also
    #55

  7. #5
    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    Pull two ujoint keepers off the caps on the two parts that go the crank and the one that goes to the pump. Turn the joint up and take a stright edge and two nuts put the nuts where the keepers would go and use the stright edge across the two nuts! As long as it is level not cocked you are good to go! Now turn the joints 90* to the side and check alignment again if level there run the piss out of it! You can be a little off cause you don't want 0* needs a little offset for joint movement! WT

    Your setup looks real good and close!


    SOMEONE SAID YOU CAN'T TAKE IT WITH YOU! SO,IM BURNING IT UP ONE GALLON AT A TIME!
    WT

    WFL Crew!!!

  8. #6
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    Default Reference points

    Your set up looks fine. However, the top of the intake leaves a lot to be desired as a reference point. Crank centerline, and intake mounting surface are not necessarily parallel. A better reference point is a magnetically mounted indicator off the crank flange to the pump shaft. The pump shaft and the crank centerline need to be parallel, but not necessarily "inline" with each other. As mentioned, a u joint likes to be a little off of perfect, but the margin of error, if excessive, will result in premature u joint wear, and use up HP overcoming the friction created. Just as a "perfect", (nothing mechanical is ever perfect), or too little angle, will also cause wear... Before you disassemble it for u joint replacement, mark the assembly with a centerpunch so you can reassemble the pieces in the same "clocking" as it was originally.......

    And yeah, black paint does dissolve rust

    Ray
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

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