How do you cool a SBC if you can't run water logs?
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How do you cool a SBC if you can't run water logs?

  1. #1
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    Default How do you cool a SBC if you can't run water logs?

    Flirting with the idea of running turbos on a SBC. So, assuming I need to run a dry exhaust, how would I heat up the water before injecting it into the engine? And then how would I shoot it back into the water?

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    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
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    Run a Jacketed header maybe?????????
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    CODE8 code8's Avatar
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    will the lighting exhaust work for you? I have some on my sbc and they work great....

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    I don't know what either of those are.

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    Senior Member gregb's Avatar
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    You don't need to heat it up before it gets to the engine. Any boat with a set of Bassetts gets whatever water temp the lake is directly to the engine with no heating. Then it goes out of a water outlet on the intake to a fitting somewhere on the transom and is just ejected back to the lake. That's the jist of it.
    Last edited by gregb; 10-18-2010 at 10:21 PM.

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    Awesome, thank you. So a transom is just the part of the hull on the rear of the boat above the water line I'm guessing?

    Do you restrict the valve in your jet to feed it less water? What temp does your motor operate at?

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    Quote Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
    Awesome, thank you. So a transom is just the part of the hull on the rear of the boat above the water line I'm guessing?

    Do you restrict the valve in your jet to feed it less water? What temp does your motor operate at?
    Yes, the rear of the boat is the transom. You usually install a valve on the inboard side of the transom in the hose from the pump to the engine to control the amount of water going into the engine. I like to set the idle temp. around 180ish, but it'll drop once you start moving and pumping more cool water into the engine. If you have your idle temp set too low (too much water flowing through the engine) it'll never heat up the oil enough to burn off any condensation and the cylinders won't expand because of the cold water. Hot pistons expanding, cold cylinders not expanding is usually a bad mix.


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  10. #8
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    If you wanted to preheat the water YOU Can run an oil cooler and run the water threw their first
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    Senior Member pilot940's Avatar
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    You can also get a thermosatat kit from Rex Marine if you would like to keep the temp of your engine up. I am running oine in my olds and get 140-180 with a 180 stat and 160-200 with a 195 stat. They work great and help control water pressure in the engine by dumping excess pressure.

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    Senior Member gregb's Avatar
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    There are so many ways to do it. Mine had the water control valve on the outlet side of the engine, and I've seen them set up with a valve on the inlet and outlet. I used to show about 150 running and 170 idling with the valve 1 turn open. I have since put a pressure regulator on the inlet side and ditched the valve, now the gauge never goes about 140. Honestly, I think that an oil temp gauge would be better than the water temp. I just let it warm up now to where the cylinder head is hot to the touch before hammering it, and don't pay so much attention anymore to the temp gauge. As long as I see water coming out the back it's good.

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    Senior Member CK7684's Avatar
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    Don't really need to heat the water up first. Just make sure the engine is built with proper marine clearences for said expansions. I am running a thermostat kit and water pressure regulator, but I'm not really convinced I need the thermostat. It does work pretty good though. I dont get any wild temp fluctuations at all with it, which was something I was worried about before I installed it...

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    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
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    my water goes through a intercooler first which only heats it up while under load. brings the 140* up to about 190* full throttle. i have a bbc though.
    Last edited by turbo wog; 10-21-2010 at 04:09 PM.

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    Hoodys and swim trunks Elkidminoltu's Avatar
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    I ran mine like this on my SBC. I run a gate valve at the pump, to a T, then into the block where the waterpump was, and then it exits out the thermostat and dumps over the back of the boat. Open your valve one turn, fire it up at idle and adjust from there. You should have a couple pee streams out of the tubes at idle. Then get it up to 2000rpm while cruising and adjust it so there's a steady stream or you see 140 on the dash. You won't see 180 like this unless your valve is almost all the way closed and that can cause air pockets in the heads. Mind you, this is temporary, but it worked for the afternoon that I had the boat out there.


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