Anyone used this rub rail
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Anyone used this rub rail

  1. #1
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Default Anyone used this rub rail

    http://cruisermarine.com/Hollow-Back...-Rub-Rail.html

    @ $30 a 12' stick for 1/2 his prices are great. I am aware of the shipping expense. I've already sorted that out with them. I'm probably going to order tomorrow as long as there are no bad reviews.
    Last edited by Last Mohican; 11-07-2010 at 02:19 PM.

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  3. #2
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Guess I'll be the guinea pig.

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    WFL Crew TINTDESIGNZ's Avatar
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    I used the 5/8 rivet-on black with the rubber insert. The insert helps in case you get "bumped".

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  6. #4
    TRG
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    That SS rail can be tough to work with due to its rigidity, bends are tough to do especially around the nose of most smaller v-bottoms, if the boat is painted, I would recommend pre-forming with a similar radius then attach!
    the backside of some of the brands are rather sharp and will dig into the gel and cut right through the clear on a 2 stage paint job, just take precaution and you should be good!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TINTDESIGNZ View Post
    I used the 5/8 rivet-on black with the rubber insert. The insert helps in case you get "bumped".
    I thought about that but I like the look of the aluminum rub rail on Don's Aristocrat.

    Where did you get the 5/8 with insert? How much was it?

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRG View Post
    That SS rail can be tough to work with due to its rigidity, bends are tough to do especially around the nose of most smaller v-bottoms, if the boat is painted, I would recommend pre-forming with a similar radius then attach!
    the backside of some of the brands are rather sharp and will dig into the gel and cut right through the clear on a 2 stage paint job, just take precaution and you should be good!
    I was wondering about that. The boat is the original gel. There is a compound curve at the back where the side transitions to the transom. Would I be better off with aluminum?

  9. #7
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Just talked to them again. The agree that the stainless will be too hard to bend. Guess I'll look for aluminum. I know there are board sponsors that have it. It is just too expensive for this boat. Wish I could find some used rail from another Rebel.

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    You need the 1/2-inch aluminum rail. I think if you use that hollow back product, you will eventually dent it, the edges will spread and gouge the gel all in one brief moment.
    I did this on a rebel after paint. Looks great, just have to go real slow on those corners, use towels, tape, your hands and rubber mallet to form it out, be careful and go slow, take all steps you can think of to protect your gel and you'll be fine. The other part that's kinda tricky is popping the rivet gun, always be sure to stabilize the nose of the gun with your other hand before the rivet pops or put pull back pressure on it or something. The nose of that gun will bounce on you unexpectedly and scratch you gel faster than you can imagine. Just be extra careful on the first few and you will get the hang of it.


  11. #9
    WFL Crew TINTDESIGNZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Last Mohican View Post
    I thought about that but I like the look of the aluminum rub rail on Don's Aristocrat.

    Where did you get the 5/8 with insert? How much was it?
    Matt i ordered it from Penn Industries in Dallas,which is a trim supplier for auto trim shops. It was less than 2 bills with the insert. It bends nice with a lil heat from a heat gun and the insert must be in it to bend -otherwise it flattens out.I did my buddies picklefork-the nose was a lil tricky! I've worked with it for years-used to be a hot item on alot of cars.

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  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by TINTDESIGNZ View Post
    Matt i ordered it from Penn Industries in Dallas,which is a trim supplier for auto trim shops. It was less than 2 bills with the insert. It bends nice with a lil heat from a heat gun and the insert must be in it to bend -otherwise it flattens out.I did my buddies picklefork-the nose was a lil tricky! I've worked with it for years-used to be a hot item on alot of cars.
    Thanks Scott. Penn is not far from me. Maybe I'll go by and see what they have.

  13. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RadMan View Post
    You need the 1/2-inch aluminum rail. I think if you use that hollow back product, you will eventually dent it, the edges will spread and gouge the gel all in one brief moment.
    I did this on a rebel after paint. Looks great, just have to go real slow on those corners, use towels, tape, your hands and rubber mallet to form it out, be careful and go slow, take all steps you can think of to protect your gel and you'll be fine. The other part that's kinda tricky is popping the rivet gun, always be sure to stabilize the nose of the gun with your other hand before the rivet pops or put pull back pressure on it or something. The nose of that gun will bounce on you unexpectedly and scratch you gel faster than you can imagine. Just be extra careful on the first few and you will get the hang of it.
    Rad, Great looking boat. I was actually looking at a pic of it earlier today. I found it through photobucket though. Didn't realize you were on the board here and that you were somewhat close to me (In the same state). Do you remember where you purchased that rail from? From the sound of it you used the solid back not the hollow back. I was debating rivets or screws. Once again, great looking boat.

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    I think it was also Penn where I found it, this was 1997, so it's been a long while, but that looks like the place. I also bought from them the matching trim that has a tiny lip on one side for around the bottom of the dash and sides inside the boat to finish the interior edge. Both these pieces were solid. I used rivets, not screws. If you use rivets, don't rely on home depot/lowes, buy them online from a marine supplier to insure the silver stays silver for years to come. I got burned on this back in the day.

  15. #13
    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RadMan View Post
    I think it was also Penn where I found it, this was 1997, so it's been a long while, but that looks like the place. I also bought from them the matching trim that has a tiny lip on one side for around the bottom of the dash and sides inside the boat to finish the interior edge. Both these pieces were solid. I used rivets, not screws. If you use rivets, don't rely on home depot/lowes, buy them online from a marine supplier to insure the silver stays silver for years to come. I got burned on this back in the day.
    Great info. Thanks Rad.

  16. #14
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    No love at Penn industries on the solid aluminum stuff. Guy said he had been there 14 years and never seen the solid aluminum stuff. They do have the 5/8 insert type Scott mentioned.

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