Re-plumbing
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Re-plumbing

  1. #1
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    Default Re-plumbing

    After reading just about all the plumbing advice threads and looking at the many diagrams, here is what I came up with. Wanted to know your opinions before I proceed forward with it. Thanks in advance.
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    Looks like it could work. If this is for OT headers, I would normally have the ball valve on the water dump to create back pressure to the bassett T-valve as recommended by Bassett. Any reason for the two water dumps?

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    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Ditch the thermostat and you only need one dump line
    #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by cp562 View Post
    Looks like it could work. If this is for OT headers, I would normally have the ball valve on the water dump to create back pressure to the bassett T-valve as recommended by Bassett. Any reason for the two water dumps?
    CP-

    They are OT headers. In what I've read in the many threads on this issue, the idea is to dump as much water out as your putting in to prevent excessive pressure in the cooling system so not to blow head gaskets, etc. Having the thermostat in (in my theory) would create the back pressure for the t-valve and keep the engine at a temp where it likes to run efficiently. In my eyes the thermostat is doing the regulating of what we would use a valve for without constantly adjusting, trying to find the "sweet spot" under all conditions, WOT or none. Does that make any sense??

    Thanks again for any input!
    Cheers!
    Last edited by Fabreezai; 01-21-2011 at 04:42 PM.

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    The thermostat wll not work well. Ditch it or buy the real marine deal with the 4 hoses to it with the bypass.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DuaneHTP View Post
    The thermostat wll not work well. Ditch it or buy the real marine deal with the 4 hoses to it with the bypass.
    Duane-

    Exactly how does the t-stat bypass work/function? other than that, does everything else look good? Input, input, input (Johnny 5)!

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    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    the marine bypass design will bypass incoming cold water until the thermostat
    opens then the cold water will pass thru the engine. without the bypassing water
    the exhaust will get too hot. without the bypass the thermostat will need to open and close extremely fast to maintain the 180 degree temp.

    the reason you only need one dump line is you only have one feed line.
    while your at it you really don't need the second valve going to the tee valve.

    don't over think the system. there's been thousands of jet boats manufactured
    without the thermostat.
    Your pressure regulator is the best addition to modernize the system, most engines
    were designed to run under 20 psi water pressure. Just My Opinion

    edit; I would also change the ball valve closest to the pump to a gate valve
    Last edited by Outlaw; 01-21-2011 at 08:39 PM.
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    I assume your actually running Bassett headers and not logs??
    #55

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    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
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    Outlaw you beat me to it..........Dump the ball valve on the line in off the pump and use a good quality Gate valve instead, its easier to set and regulate the water then guessing with a ball valve. Toss the ball valve out before the Bassett T you dont need it. Some guys will run a drilled out bushing or carb jet right before each header to limit the water amount.

    Also your pressure regulator should have a large dump line off it to loose the extra psi at WOT.

    Unless you plan on making those two dump lines larger then the rest then it might work to keep the psi down.
    Last edited by Fonz69; 01-21-2011 at 08:58 PM.

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    Senior Member 74glencoe's Avatar
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    Default opinion

    1. a good gate valve should always be the first thing off the pump, just in case you blow a hose or some other leak.

    2. a regulator should come next, It solved some issues I had.

    3.Take this one with a grain of salt, (thats why it says OPINION), cuz there are alot of guys on here that are smarter and have been doing it longer, but cold water directly from the lake boils faster on the headers and also facilitates better cooling of the headers.
    Boating is nothing like cocaine, boating is much more addictive and results in bigger parties!

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    Yes I am running Bassett headers.
    Going with the advice given here, less the thermostat bypass does this look better? or should the T go after the regulator?
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    Last edited by Fabreezai; 01-22-2011 at 10:21 AM.

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    You don't need two water dumps. The regulated 20psi is a good idea for cooling and not blowing head gaskets. I agree with gate valves. The problem you may run into is the T-Valve may not open to put water to the headers. The reason for the gate valve on the dump is to give you adjustment for the headers. The 20psi is a constant which may or may not open the T-valve the way you have it set up in the last picture. You may need to create back pressure by closing down a little on the dump gate valve to open the T-valve. Have you looked at the Bassett web site?

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    This is from the Bassett Racing Web site. Just add the regulator and you are good to go.
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  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cp562 View Post
    You don't need two water dumps. The regulated 20psi is a good idea for cooling and not blowing head gaskets. I agree with gate valves. The problem you may run into is the T-Valve may not open to put water to the headers. The reason for the gate valve on the dump is to give you adjustment for the headers. The 20psi is a constant which may or may not open the T-valve the way you have it set up in the last picture. You may need to create back pressure by closing down a little on the dump gate valve to open the T-valve. Have you looked at the Bassett web site?
    CP-

    Have not looked at the bassett web site but I will. As far as enough pressure for the T-valve, in the last pic I would be supplying the t-valve with water before the regulator after the gate valve, so I think that would resolve that problem. Do you agree?

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