fuel psi regulator vs. fuel return
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fuel psi regulator vs. fuel return

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    Senior Member steadymobbin's Avatar
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    Default fuel psi regulator vs. fuel return

    what are the pros and cons of running a fuel psi regulator vs. fuel return!? which one is better for what application? or does it even matter?

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    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    ^^^

    Damn good question ?

    I think there are variables within a fuel system design that make one better than the other. But in a boat where the fuel pump is close so close the the tank and the carb is just a few feet from the pump I think it makes a big difference than pushing the fuel over 8ft to the front of a car.

    With good size fuel lines and a fuel pump that is preset at 9-12 psi and regulated at 6-7 psi I don't think a return is necessary. I run two Holley 150's with no return line

    JMO

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    gn7
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    sleeper, you need to get some bigger carbs. 300 cfm just isn't enough for a 500+ inch motor. Even a Ford.



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    Senior Member steadymobbin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    sleeper, you need to get some bigger carbs. 300 cfm just isn't enough for a 500+ inch motor. Even a Ford.
    im sure he ment 750cfm lol... thanks sleeper. yea someone was talkin shit about regulators and said i need to run a fuel return. said they were much better, then recommended that i run his fuel return haha thanks for the info! makes me feel a lot better about my rig and what i have going on with her

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    Two of these: Holley 150 hp's


    The most flow I could get without having to run a return line.


    And one of these:








    Dual carbs are for people who need a crutch

    S CP

    "Dark Sarcasm"
    Going fast is only half the fun ... what you make go
    fast is the other half.
    " A Government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have"

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    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    I've ran CP140's for many years, with a dead head regulator. I think it depends more on the style of fuel pump, that you use.
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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Dead-heading through a regular PSI regulator puts a hell of a lot of drag on the pump(s). Especially at idle, where almost no fuel is being used. The pump is trying to push 800hp worth of fuel and the regulator is basically shutting down the flow, so it would be like sticking the nose of your boat against a wall and then go WOT.

    A BYPASS reg trickles off the amount that is NEEDED at any time (idle, cruise, WOT) and RETURNS the rest back to the tank. This takes all of the dead-head load off of the pump and allows the fuel to flow freely at any time. The pump runs smoother, longer, and cooler. Not necessarily in THAT order.

    If you don't want to run a return line all the way back, you can just Tee it into the FEED line of the fuel pump. Same-same. Excess fuel just pushes back through the feed line to the tank(s), OR just feeds the pump. Depending on where the throttle is at.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


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    I fed 2 1150 dom's with a mallory 140 to a BG 4port dead head with -6 lines. The tanks ran to a Y into a filter, then to the pump. 6yrs without a fuel issue.

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    Senior Member steadymobbin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sleeper CP View Post
    Two of these: Holley 150 hp's


    The most flow I could get without having to run a return line.


    And one of these:








    Dual carbs are for people who need a crutch

    S CP
    HAHA thats awesome i feel the same way about nitrous lol
    im not familiar with your 150hp's. is it a fuel pump? im guessing. im running a clay smith mechanical pump

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    Senior Member Schiada 201's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Dead-heading through a regular PSI regulator puts a hell of a lot of drag on the pump(s). Especially at idle, where almost no fuel is being used. The pump is trying to push 800hp worth of fuel and the regulator is basically shutting down the flow, so it would be like sticking the nose of your boat against a wall and then go WOT.

    A BYPASS reg trickles off the amount that is NEEDED at any time (idle, cruise, WOT) and RETURNS the rest back to the tank. This takes all of the dead-head load off of the pump and allows the fuel to flow freely at any time. The pump runs smoother, longer, and cooler. Not necessarily in THAT order.

    If you don't want to run a return line all the way back, you can just Tee it into the FEED line of the fuel pump. Same-same. Excess fuel just pushes back through the feed line to the tank(s), OR just feeds the pump. Depending on where the throttle is at.

    Thats it in a nutshell, well written, good info.

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    Jackwagon Patrolman Rexone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Dead-heading through a regular PSI regulator puts a hell of a lot of drag on the pump(s). Especially at idle, where almost no fuel is being used. The pump is trying to push 800hp worth of fuel and the regulator is basically shutting down the flow, so it would be like sticking the nose of your boat against a wall and then go WOT.

    A BYPASS reg trickles off the amount that is NEEDED at any time (idle, cruise, WOT) and RETURNS the rest back to the tank. This takes all of the dead-head load off of the pump and allows the fuel to flow freely at any time. The pump runs smoother, longer, and cooler. Not necessarily in THAT order.

    If you don't want to run a return line all the way back, you can just Tee it into the FEED line of the fuel pump. Same-same. Excess fuel just pushes back through the feed line to the tank(s), OR just feeds the pump. Depending on where the throttle is at.
    Good info, I would also offer:

    Fuel teed back into the supply line mostly returns to the pump vs the tank so depending on fuel demand of the engine at the time some (to most at idle) is returning in a circle and you are not getting the fuel "cooling" effect that you would returning it to the tank. I do concur that it is still much better than deadheading, however it was not that many years ago when deadheading was the rule rather than the exception on just about everything other than race apps and pumps still lasted a long time, the exception usually being when water got in the fuel system and rusted them internally (Holleys particularly sensitive to water and rust).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Good info, I would also offer:

    pumps still lasted a long time, the exception usually being when water got in the fuel system and rusted them internally (Holleys particularly sensitive to water and rust).
    As stated elsewhere the type of pump makes a big diff. We ran two Mallory 140's for 6-8 seasons when we use to go everyother weekend. Only problem we ever had with those was the electrical connections. Those pumps were internally regulated at 12 psi +/- running them in a dead-head situation didn't seem to bother them.

    S CP

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    Quote Originally Posted by steadymobbin View Post
    HAHA thats awesome i feel the same way about nitrous lol
    im not familiar with your 150hp's. is it a fuel pump? im guessing. im running a clay smith mechanical pump
    Holley Performance Products 150 GPH Billet Base HP Fuel Pump*12-150 ( click on )


    That nitrous is not a "crutch" it's insurance

    S CP

    "Dark Sarcasm"
    Going fast is only half the fun ... what you make go
    fast is the other half.
    " A Government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have"

  16. #14
    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    My experience is mainly with EFI setups. You guys are way more familiar with late-model low-psi pumps than I am. As you have stated - it really probably depends on the pump(s) used. An AeroMotive pump that is designed to support 1000hp EFI setup running 50-60 psi would not like being restricted to 14 or less psi without a return line.

    However, the other thing to think of is fuel temp. A bypass system keeps fuel constantly flowing THROUGH the system. It doesn't sit in one place and get heated as is passes by exhaust and whatnot.

    EITHER system will definitely get the job done. I am merely posting the differences that I know of and I am sure there are others that I don't know.

    There would also be other factors in play which would help decide which system is most efficient for the task at hand:

    1) Is the boat mainly WOT with little-to-no idle/cruise time?
    2) Is the usual environment hot or mainly cool ambient temps?

    Really_good_info_here_(click)
    Last edited by Beer:30; 02-13-2011 at 09:28 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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