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olds cam info

  1. #1
    Senior Member glastornjet73's Avatar
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    Default olds cam info

    i know i have started this thread before butt well after a few months of beeing on the backburner i am getting my engine back togeather block is at the machine shop now getting studs line hones zero decked ballance checked honed and assembled after all the oiling stuff has been done so now i am on the the cam choice thing 1st off i am debating a solid roller or solid flat tappit i was told olds engines alond with the plethera of other oiling problem has trouble keeping the lifter pumped up so i am going to go with a solid but what do you guys think as far as roller or flat tappit? also what grind's work well with each

    i have ka heads that are extencivly ported heat risers filled ect and am looking for a set of eddy's for the rite price but odds are it will be getting the iron ones 2323f pistons total seal gapless rings zero decked arp throughout ballanced all the oiling mods under the sun 1.6 harland sharps and still debating on intake and carb what do you guys think thanks dj

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    Senior Member pilot940's Avatar
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    I am running a 455 in my jet and have the following set up.

    hyd flat tappet JM-25-28 (Mondello) nice lope to it, but not too much to cruise.
    Flat top 30 over pistons, decked with a .080 thous cometic gasket 10.6:1
    No oil mods except drain back lines from the back of the heads and 10qt pan.
    750 holley vac secondaries, performer intake.

    approx 425hp @ 5200 rpm

    I say go for it with the solid cam, if you go to mondellos, opp, or rocket racing, you can find a good set up for what you want. I suggest calling rocket, they are great to work with.

    As far as the lifter pump up, I havent heard anyone complain of it. Just make sure you get good lifters that can handle your cam. I am running lunati suggested by rocket and they work just fine.

    As far as the oil mods go, my machinist talked me out of them and my motor runs great. Mondellos will try to sell you every restricter and oil mod under the sun, but don't do it.

    page 2 of this thread has an oiling diagram and page one explains the restricter issue.
    http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-...ml#post1261270
    Last edited by pilot940; 02-21-2011 at 08:21 PM.

  4. #3
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Just finishing this one up this week for a customer in the midwest , with some Eddies ,Comp Hydraulic and some other Comp pieces etc , attached are a couple pics of the external drainbacks to the pan rails , more details pics and ifo on this build if your interested Tom


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  6. #4
    Senior Member glastornjet73's Avatar
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    yeah deffinatly i did not do all the reastrictors i just modified the rear main cap smoother out all the oil passages opened up the drains in the block smootherd the valley champherd every spot where oil transfers through a bearing and champhered the crank smoothed out all the passeges in the pump opened up the drainbacks in the heads so i dont think oiling will be an issue especially with the big pan and oil cooler ect my i am finishing my heads now i am putting ferrea valved in them and filling the heat risers and finishing the job the last guy should have when he ported the heads the heads have very extencive port work guy just cheaped out and didnt buy the metal to melt into the heat risers im just gonna use some old cast pistons and melt em own and pour in there and make 2 indivdual exhaust runners and weld up the spot in the middle where the header bolts on to make that actually 2 runners also i am undecided on the crosswind or victor manifolds and 850 carb and want to do a cam somewhat close to this one but in a solid flat tappit and am unsure what i would use in a roller if i so decide to go that way

    Adv. dur. 288/302
    .050 dur. 244/254
    Lift .554/.570
    LC 114

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    Poor stock oil return from the heads to the pan and the high bearing speeds (heat) caused by the Old's large diameter bearings... are it's performance weaknesses

    Open up the oil return holes and/or add external drains... build to the wide side of factory recommended bearing clearances, use the thinnest (synthetic) oil that will give you adequate oil pressure, use large pan and HV oil pump

    I use the rod notch mod as it 'supposedly' allows oil to flow through the bearing faster to remove heat, and it also throws the escaping oil up under the pistons to lubricate and cool the piston pins on these long stroke engines

  8. #6
    Senior Member glastornjet73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcfloater View Post
    Poor stock oil return from the heads to the pan and the high bearing speeds (heat) caused by the Old's large diameter bearings... are it's performance weaknesses

    Open up the oil return holes and/or add external drains... build to the wide side of factory recommended bearing clearances, use the thinnest (synthetic) oil that will give you adequate oil pressure, use large pan and HV oil pump

    I use the rod notch mod as it 'supposedly' allows oil to flow through the bearing faster to remove heat, and it also throws the escaping oil up under the pistons to lubricate and cool the piston pins on these long stroke engines

    yes sir got all of that done well everything except the drainback in the heads thats just cause i have been lasy any have not done it yet lol it is on he adgenda tho and im probly going to run a 10w30 full synthetic racing oil royal purple probably god i hate to think how huch thats gonna cost $100 plus filters

  9. #7
    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    Don't look at the oil as cost! Look at as good insurance.
    Duane HTP

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