Ignition Question...... Well, What I really mean is Ignition Problem,
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Ignition Question...... Well, What I really mean is Ignition Problem,

  1. #1
    Senior Member Areyouliving's Avatar
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    Default Ignition Question...... Well, What I really mean is Ignition Problem,

    I have an ignition issue that I need some help with. Any ideas are welcome.
    Heres the layout. BBF prestolite distributor with a pertronix conversion kit. Specifically Ignitor II coil and module.
    I start the boat up and let it start to warm up, it runs very well for about a minute and then shuts off. I loose all power to the ignition switch, two connectors on my wire bar (the thing on the back of the motor where all wires junction together) are hot to the touch. The two are the batt wire and ignition wire. The little breaker pops on my wire bar and it blows my ignition module. So I bought another module and had the exact same problem. The wire bar only gets hot when the motor is running. I can leave the ignition on without the motor running and nothing gets hot.
    The wiring on this boat is very clean. All grounds that I can find are tight. No loose wires hanging around. And the motor turns over VERY well. I have plenty of juice coming from the battery.

    Please help. Mind you I can't test with motor running because it keeps blowing the $100 modules.

    Thanks
    Bill

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    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
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    Did it ever run fine before?

    If so what did you change since then?

    Sounds like somthing in that petronix is wrong?

    You no longer are using the ballast resistor right?
    Last edited by Fonz69; 03-03-2011 at 04:18 AM.

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    Led
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    after you check the ignition wiring? I would check the alternator wiring, I have bought some boats that had some crazy wiring methods. On one of mine, the boat did the same thing and just...would run and just die in the middle of the lake. The hot wire going to the dizzy was used as a jump for some other stuff, and they had a bolt going through the glass on the back of the boat as the hot post...

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    Senior Member Areyouliving's Avatar
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    I just got the boat and haven't had it out yet. Previous owner is unaware there was an issues. Said it ran fine.
    There is no ballast.
    I was leaning towards altenator too. Something is sending power back through the ignition is my thought. Because it only does it when the boat is running, it seems to be either altenator or coil?

  7. #5
    "I'm just SPRAYIN' man!!" '78 Crusader's Avatar
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    I had a problem...I'm running a Mallory distributor with a Petronix conversion as well. My boat would get up to about 1,500 rpms and then die but the motor would still run.

    I found out that the distributor wire should be on it's own 12v line so the other components don't draw the power away from the dizzy. Once I seperated it, mine has run fine.
    Cliff
    1978 21' Crusader, 466 CID BBF, Berkely Jet
    1966 13' Boston Whaler sport, 40 HP Yamaha Two Smoker

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    Led
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    another thought, find you a DUI dizzy HEI for that Ford, I got away from points and the brain box. Do not buy a Pro Comp or ProForm, I cant remember, about $150.

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    Senior Member Schiada 201's Avatar
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    Run the power from the alternator direct to the positive side of the battery. X2 on the HEI single wire on e bay for $ 60-150 they work great.

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    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
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  11. #9
    LF2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Schiada 201 View Post
    Run the power from the alternator direct to the positive side of the battery. X2 on the HEI single wire on e bay for $ 60-150 they work great.

    X3 on that I put a DUI HEI on my boat last year after dealing with ign probs the previous summer and couldnt be happier. very simple setup and can get parts from any auto parts store if needed.

    Performance Distributors - High Performance and Racing Ignition Systems

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    Senior Member Areyouliving's Avatar
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    I worked on it yesterday and thought I had it fixed. Found a power wire that was loose and shorting out. So this morning I took a little time before work to water test it. I sat at the launch ramp with the boat on the trailer for about 15mins without issue. Held rpms high and low. Then I went out in the little cove by the ramp for another few minutes not a problem. So I went out into the open river and was running around for another minute or so, but just as I went to go back to the ramp I gunned it just a little and she shut off. Popped the breaker and burned up the module. I also saw my AMP meter shoot the 50 amps. The current in the Sacramento River is no joke right now. I quickly threw my anchor out which preceeded to drag and called for help. I was so sure I had it fixed I even left my truck on the ramp and trailer in the water so I could just load up and be gone.

    Man this is frustrating. I just wanna go boating!

    I'll run that altenator exciter wire somewhere else and replace with a DUI as suggested. Sounds like I need to have the ALT checked as well.


    Quote Originally Posted by LF2 View Post
    X3 on that I put a DUI HEI on my boat last year after dealing with ign probs the previous summer and couldnt be happier. very simple setup and can get parts from any auto parts store if needed.

    Performance Distributors - High Performance and Racing Ignition Systems

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    Does your boat have a remote starter sillinoid. I had the same problem you are having. Sometimes the boat would just fire then blow the fuse. Other times would run for ten minutes. I chased this problem for months. It turned out to be the sillinoid had a short in it.
    It's always the last place you look, at least it was a cheap fix.

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    Senior Member Schiada 201's Avatar
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    <P>Sounds like the alt is over charging, wire the alt hot wire directly to the battery, you don't need to run thru the whole system this will only charge the battery. The hot wire to ignition will come the batt or solonoid power side. Put that hot wire thru a 20 amp fuse to + side of the ignition; switch. run other items from the accesory side of the switch. when the key is turned to start that wire goes to ign solonoid.</P>
    <P>This way if you have a short it will blow the in line fuse not the ignition. If it continues to blow fuses you can look for a short. carry fuses with you This way you can't have a over load burning up the ign system </P>
    Last edited by Schiada 201; 03-05-2011 at 02:01 PM.

  15. #13
    Senior Member Areyouliving's Avatar
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    Ok I took all the advice you guys gave me and it worked! The alternator was grossly over charging, feeding into my ignition and popping the breaker which was then blowing my ignition module. Had the alt rebuilt, rewired it and put in another module. Had a nice test run.

    Thank you all who chimed in with advice. You made the difference.

    Bill
    Last edited by Areyouliving; 04-07-2011 at 11:31 AM.

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