Optima batteries?
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Optima batteries?

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    The Good mrjoshua's Avatar
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    Default Optima batteries?

    I want to mount my battery under the back seat. it will have to lay on it's side to fit. what batteries do you guys use. Is optima the only kind that are sealed. I'm only going to run the starter and gauges with it. no stereo. Which ones will take to recharging after the winter better? What size and what color would you recommend? Thanks Josh

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    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjoshua View Post
    I want to mount my battery under the back seat. it will have to lay on it's side to fit. what batteries do you guys use. Is optima the only kind that are sealed. I'm only going to run the starter and gauges with it. no stereo. Which ones will take to recharging after the winter better? What size and what color would you recommend? Thanks Josh
    I use blue tops. and have the speial charger for them.
    No Fool Like A Old Fool is there?

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    You can mount any AGM battery up-side-down, if you need to. No fluid to spill.

    Optima is what I use, as they are easy to get and are affordable. Sears has a DieHard AGM model. Odyssey is very good also.

    I have an Optima from 1998 that still starts my '57 Chevy every time. I think they are WELL worth the money. Others here have favorite brands, but regardless of brand - AGM is what you are looking for.

    And, before you say GEL, they are not GEL. GEL is a whole different animal. AGM is Absorbed Glass Mat.

    Here's where I get mine and they have the good CTEK (Optima-recommended) maintainers: Optima Batteries Free Shipping
    Last edited by Beer:30; 03-04-2011 at 06:06 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    mine is blue top.200$..2nd year comin up....im pretty sure my volt meter e=read 15.3....after a million starts...special charger 60$..so far they rock...ive also had 50 year old technology prove to be very reliable....im pretty sure it just boils down to karma...good luck...mikey

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    The Good mrjoshua's Avatar
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    Any requirements on "group size" for my application? Will the D34M work?
    Last edited by mrjoshua; 03-05-2011 at 07:27 AM.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjoshua View Post
    Any requirements on "group size" for my application? Will the D34M work?
    Yup. I currently have two of those in the boat. I put them in during Feb of 2005. There is a MarinePro dual-bank on board maintainer hooked to them so they never have a chance to sulfate (12.5v or below).

    When I upgrade the stereo, I plan on adding a TrollFury just for the stereo.

    And, something else from personal experience - When choosing a maintainer (either on-board or portable), you only need minimal amperage. Mine (circa 2005) is way larger than necessary. It is a 2-bank / 12-amp unit. It is a "smart-charger" that senses which bank needs the most charge. It will throw nearly all of the 12-amps to that bank until it comes up to the level of the other one and then evens out. The thing is, Optima batts have such low internal resistance that 6-amps resembles double-that to a flooded battery. Optimas will "cook" themselves with a 10-amp charger hooked to them. They only need about 2-amps at most to fully charge. The only way I have lost an Optima is by sticking a 10-amp shop (rolling) charger to it and leaving it overnight. The next morning I couldn't even leave my hand on the battery - it was so hot. Cooked it to death. On the 20+ red tops that I have in my stable of cars, I use the CTEK .8-amp (800 milli-amp) maintainer. It will charge a moderately dis-charged Optima in about 3 or 4 days. For Optimas, you wouldn't ever need more than CTEK's 3300 (3.3-amp) model. It will fully charge a dead battery overnight.

    So, think about what you do with the boat. It is driven for awhile and then you stop and play the stereo. Drive, play. Drive, play. So, the battery gets somewhat - if not fully - recharged by the time you are back at the dock/trailer. So when you park the boat, it is fairly well charged. So, in my case, there has been absolute NO TIME that I needed a 12 (dual 6) amp charger on board. The boat will be parked for AT LEAST a week at a time, so even 800milli-amps would charge BOTH batteries in a week.

    My 12-amp was the lowest one in this particular brand and it's not HURTING the batts since it's fully automatic. Basically, most of the time it is in maintenance mode anyway - 13.1v @ 500-800ma.

    That being said, the CTEK US800 (800ma) unit is fully sealed. I mount them on my cars and just leave the AC cord accessable through the grill or under the front bumper. For a boat, there is no reason you couldn't get two of them ($50 ea) and mount one on each side - if your batteries are isolated from each other. If you have a Perko switch, you could just get a single US3300 (3.3amp), hook it to ANY of the batteries, and leave the switch on ALL. The CTEK would just see one big battery instead of 2, 3, or whathaveyou.

    This place: http://www.batterystuff.com/ has every type of charger/maintainer you could think of, although they don't seem to carry CTEK.
    Last edited by Beer:30; 03-05-2011 at 09:01 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

  9. #7
    The Good mrjoshua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Yup. I currently have two of those in the boat. I put them in during Feb of 2005. There is a MarinePro dual-bank on board maintainer hooked to them so they never have a chance to sulfate (12.5v or below).

    When I upgrade the stereo, I plan on adding a TrollFury just for the stereo.

    And, something else from personal experience - When choosing a maintainer (either on-board or portable), you only need minimal amperage. Mine (circa 2005) is way larger than necessary. It is a 2-bank / 12-amp unit. It is a "smart-charger" that senses which bank needs the most charge. It will throw nearly all of the 12-amps to that bank until it comes up to the level of the other one and then evens out. The thing is, Optima batts have such low internal resistance that 6-amps resembles double-that to a flooded battery. Optimas will "cook" themselves with a 10-amp charger hooked to them. They only need about 2-amps at most to fully charge. The only way I have lost an Optima is by sticking a 10-amp shop (rolling) charger to it and leaving it overnight. The next morning I couldn't even leave my hand on the battery - it was so hot. Cooked it to death. On the 20+ red tops that I have in my stable of cars, I use the CTEK .8-amp (800 milli-amp) maintainer. It will charge a moderately dis-charged Optima in about 3 or 4 days. For Optimas, you wouldn't ever need more than CTEK's 3300 (3.3-amp) model. It will fully charge a dead battery overnight.

    So, think about what you do with the boat. It is driven for awhile and then you stop and play the stereo. Drive, play. Drive, play. So, the battery gets somewhat - if not fully - recharged by the time you are back at the dock/trailer. So when you park the boat, it is fairly well charged. So, in my case, there has been absolute NO TIME that I needed a 12 (dual 6) amp charger on board. The boat will be parked for AT LEAST a week at a time, so even 800milli-amps would charge BOTH batteries in a week.

    My 12-amp was the lowest one in this particular brand and it's not HURTING the batts since it's fully automatic. Basically, most of the time it is in maintenance mode anyway - 13.1v @ 500-800ma.

    That being said, the CTEK US800 (800ma) unit is fully sealed. I mount them on my cars and just leave the AC cord accessable through the grill or under the front bumper. For a boat, there is no reason you couldn't get two of them ($50 ea) and mount one on each side - if your batteries are isolated from each other. If you have a Perko switch, you could just get a single US3300 (3.3amp), hook it to ANY of the batteries, and leave the switch on ALL. The CTEK would just see one big battery instead of 2, 3, or whathaveyou.

    This place: Motorcycle Batteries, ATV, Car, Marine, and Solar Battery Products | BatteryStuff.com has every type of charger/maintainer you could think of, although they don't seem to carry CTEK.
    Thanks for the Info. Josh

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    Senior Member INTHERED's Avatar
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    I am a running Deka. Only using it to power the motor and one gauge. You can mount it in any direction. 550 cranking amps...
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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by INTHERED View Post
    I am a running Deka. 550 cranking amps...
    For a small job like that, no problem. For running a stereo for an hour or two, an Optima or similar with between 800 and 1000cca is more fitting, eh?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Senior Member INTHERED's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    For a small job like that, no problem. For running a stereo for an hour or two, an Optima or similar with between 800 and 1000cca is more fitting, eh?
    I completely agree... anything over starting the motor and running gauges and you would need more than what the Deka has to offer.

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