^^ Holley Fuel Pressure Gauge Question ^^
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^^ Holley Fuel Pressure Gauge Question ^^

  1. #1
    "Floatin' Motor" BoNeS's Avatar
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    Default ^^ Holley Fuel Pressure Gauge Question (RESOLVED) ^^ WOT Fuel Cutout Prob Now!!

    I installed a new Holley fuel regulator, it's supposedly preset at 7lbs but i'm not getting any reading of pressure on fuel pressure gauge. To increase the lbs. i simply turn the screw on the top clockwise, right?

    FYI, it's a BBC and the pressure gauge is mounted on the fuel log.
    Last edited by BoNeS; 03-18-2011 at 04:33 PM. Reason: Prblem fixed, have new 1 that might be related to solved problem.

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoNeS View Post
    I installed a new Holley fuel regulator, it's supposedly preset at 7lbs but i'm not getting any reading of pressure on fuel pressure gauge. To increase the lbs. i simply turn the screw on the top clockwise, right?

    FYI, it's a BBC and the pressure gauge is mounted on the fuel log.
    how did you plumb it? M

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    "Floatin' Motor" BoNeS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    how did you plumb it? M
    Tank ---> fuel pump ---> regulator ---> carburetor

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Do you KNOW it has actually primed and is pumping liquid?? May be just air (hence nothing to move the needle of the gauge) and zero fuel??
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Senior Member Fonz69's Avatar
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    just to make sure you have the fuel in and out hooked up right on the regulator right?

    Yes loosen lock nut and turn center in a regulator clockwise to increase psi, I would start around 6 psi

    is it a dead head (no return to tank) or bypass type (return to tank)?

  8. #6
    "Floatin' Motor" BoNeS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Do you KNOW it has actually primed and is pumping liquid?? May be just air (hence nothing to move the needle of the gauge) and zero fuel??
    Yes, was out on the lake yesterday running it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fonz69 View Post
    just to make sure you have the fuel in and out hooked up right on the regulator right?

    Yes loosen lock nut and turn center in a regulator clockwise to increase psi, I would start around 6 psi

    is it a dead head (no return to tank) or bypass type (return to tank)?
    Lol, yes it's hooked up right...and yes it's a dead head.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoNeS View Post
    Yes, was out on the lake yesterday running it.



    Lol, yes it's hooked up right...and yes it's a dead head.
    Faulty gauge perhaps?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    "Floatin' Motor" BoNeS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Faulty gauge perhaps?
    Hmmm, that could be a possibility.

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    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Did you use Teflon tape on the fittings? I have seen numerous times where little strings of the tape break off and clog up things like needle and seat and gauges. There is no need for sealant on flare fittings. It is the flare that seals not the threads.

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    "Floatin' Motor" BoNeS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Last Mohican View Post
    Did you use Teflon tape on the fittings? I have seen numerous times where little strings of the tape break off and clog up things like needle and seat and gauges. There is no need for sealant on flare fittings. It is the flare that seals not the threads.
    No i didn't use teflon tape on it, i actually just gave it a few turns and it registers at @8lbs. Took it out this afternoon and it seems to loose fuel flow and pressure a few seconds at WOT. I'm not understanding this fuel issue at all.
    Last edited by BoNeS; 03-18-2011 at 04:25 PM.

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoNeS View Post
    Tank ---> fuel pump ---> regulator ---> carburetor
    reason for the question is there 2 types of regulators. one is for a bypass system and the other for a constant pressure regulated for delivery to carb. Now you loosing pressure qwik? Might want to check! Also the plumbing question was how into the regulator. Your'e response is the standard deal but the regulator was what I was asking

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    "Floatin' Motor" BoNeS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    reason for the question is there 2 types of regulators. one is for a bypass system and the other for a constant pressure regulated for delivery to carb. Now you loosing pressure qwik? Might want to check! Also the plumbing question was how into the regulator. Your'e response is the standard deal but the regulator was what I was asking
    From the fuel pump it plumbs into the bottom of the regulator the out to carb from the side, the other side is capped off cuz it's a ''dead head'' setup..(no tank return line). As far as the pressure, it drops only at wide open throttle after a couple of seconds of being at WOT. It's almost as if the fuel pump (Blue Holley) can't keep up with the consumption of the carb/motor. I'm using -6AN lines for the fuel plumbing.

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    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoNeS View Post
    From the fuel pump it plumbs into the bottom of the regulator the out to carb from the side, the other side is capped off cuz it's a ''dead head'' setup..(no tank return line). As far as the pressure, it drops only at wide open throttle after a couple of seconds of being at WOT. It's almost as if the fuel pump (Blue Holley) can't keep up with the consumption of the carb/motor. I'm using -6AN lines for the fuel plumbing.
    What kind of filter and where is it? I had an issue on my cruiser similar to what you are experiencing. It was a bad fuel filter before the pump. What carb?

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    Senior Member YumaJet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoNeS View Post
    It's almost as if the fuel pump (Blue Holley) can't keep up with the consumption of the carb/motor. I'm using -6AN lines for the fuel plumbing.

    use ALL -8an lines for the fuel system and see if it helps. what kind of fuel filter are you using? make sure to not use many "home depot" style fittings, because that will restrict flow. i could see that being alittle problem. as far as the guage, toss it, and try another.

    might need to go this route..

    Last edited by YumaJet; 03-18-2011 at 08:02 PM.
    boatless....

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