Clean Plugs after running 5 gallons
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Clean Plugs after running 5 gallons

  1. #1
    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    Default Clean Plugs after running 5 gallons

    I cant seem to find the problem. I just replaced my intake gasket as my last was a valley and it had a leak on one side but all the plugs were showing slight signs. I have a 750 vc sec with 74 pr and 84 sec(I just switched to 76 p/86 s after run). Intake was free of any damage/cracks. I have replaced my fuel pump(carter marine mech), fuel pressure gauge(holding 5 1/2 -6 psi), ran all new lines, inspected tank(new aluminum), replaced plugs (to get a good reading)....Its a 460 mild cam d3ve heads performer intake with log exhaust. I ran it this weekend at elcap and water temp was around 130 give or take a couple. My timing is set at 33 @ 3000. I do ad mystery oil (1/2qt to a full tank 40gal) in my gas and run 91. The plugs after a couple runs around the lake and some 30 + mins of idling around they looked like I washed em. I could see all the way down the ceramic....whats next?
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    Senior Member sleekcraft137's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krusn56 View Post
    I cant seem to find the problem. I just replaced my intake gasket as my last was a valley and it had a leak on one side but all the plugs were showing slight signs. I have a 750 vc sec with 74 pr and 84 sec(I just switched to 76 p/86 s after run). Intake was free of any damage/cracks. I have replaced my fuel pump(carter marine mech), fuel pressure gauge(holding 5 1/2 -6 psi), ran all new lines, inspected tank(new aluminum), replaced plugs (to get a good reading)....Its a 460 mild cam d3ve heads performer intake with log exhaust. I ran it this weekend at elcap and water temp was around 130 give or take a couple. My timing is set at 33 @ 3000. I do ad mystery oil (1/2qt to a full tank 40gal) in my gas and run 91. The plugs after a couple runs around the lake and some 30 + mins of idling around they looked like I washed em. I could see all the way down the ceramic....whats next?
    try setting your timing lower and give it a shot. i had kinda the same issue.
    And the new project begins!

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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    What heat range plugs and how is the boat performing. Just to start! M

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    Senior Member 42johnny's Avatar
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    How do the electrodes look...? any sign of excessive heat (discoloration?), if not then I would also try lower timing, but is it pinging under heavy load..?
    if it is not pinging under load then I would keep timming where it is and maybe a different plug..
    sounds like you are just a little lean...
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    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    V power ngk UR4 gapped at 38. These are a stock heat range. The electrodes look ok no excesive heat damage. The boat ran very well. I noticed after I got it back and put 76 in the prime it has a slight stumble when I stomp the throttle (on the trailer). Didnt have any stumble in the water or pops/pinging. My timing is 33 @3000....what would a safe number be to lower time @ 3000. I am running a mallory unilight with canister and ballast. This pic kinda sucks but its the best I could do close up with my phone...The threads have some anti seize on them.
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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Okay computer diagnostics. Fisrt off, the 4 series plug is stock for an over the road vehicle with themostat controled temp at 195 to 210 degrees. you are running almost half that! Point being TO HOT. Timing is way to far retarded for a marine app. I would like to know the squirter size and the color of the secondary spring. If it were me I would be running a total advance of 36 @ 3500 rpm and if this a 3310 series holley a 78 primary and a 37 squirter to start. also about a 6 series on the plug. Remember that NGK runs backwords from the autolite,champion and AC heat range chart. I always had good luck with the Autolite 25 plug with my Fords. M

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    Senior Member Schiada 201's Avatar
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    X 2 on 25 autolite , different plugs mfgrs don't use the same porclain and won't show color till lots of runing. Years ago we used to run Champion for color then switch back to Autolite. The fuels used today also have additives that will wash the plugs and color comes hard. Also a colder plug not standard should be used, too hot they won't color and in time will melt something.

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    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    Going to get new colder plugs and bump the timing to 35 and I just went up to 76 in the prime. I am going the the river this weekend and will give this a run. Will look into the carb details( squirter and spring )....Making small adjustments and go from there. How about the spark gap...my 4's are @ 38?
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    Senior Member HotRodJosh's Avatar
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    130* engine temp is a little on the cool side for an engine to run effeciently...regardless of spark plugs and what application engine is in.

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    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    I run my water gate open all the time and the water was still cold at elcap...Will get up to 160-180 at the river in the summer.
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    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by krusn56 View Post
    Going to get new colder plugs and bump the timing to 35 and I just went up to 76 in the prime. I am going the the river this weekend and will give this a run. Will look into the carb details( squirter and spring )....Making small adjustments and go from there. How about the spark gap...my 4's are @ 38?
    I run the same ign with a gap of .035. If you are running anything smaller than a .031 squirter plan on that change for sure! Fords like a "fat hit" to lose the off-idle stumble, I also assume you have checked the float levels. M

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    You have to remember just because the gauge says 130 does not mean thats the engines actual temp. The water never has a chance to get to actual engine temp because it passes straight thru the engine and overboard. The oil temp is alot more accurate than the water temp in a jet. Fatten thet carb up until you see some color, it will get there.

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    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    Float levels are good. How will gapping a colder plug smaller effect the burn? This is a mild cam...basically stock 460. unilite with canister....I am getting a oil temp gauge today. I do notice that after a run back to idle the oil pressure drops to 25 then back up to 50 after a few minutes of idling. I am assuming this has to do with the hot plugs? I have a basset 10qt pan with val race 20/50
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    Senior Member Schiada 201's Avatar
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    I run a 460 Ford and the oil pressure should not drop that much mine did until I added a oil accumulator, worth every penney, its keep the oil flow pretty much normal. The plug gap depends on how strong the system you have. If not a high energy go with the normal gap the engine normaly does. Such as HEI you can go up to fifty, however 44 is a GOOD NUMBER AND 32-34 ON THE TIMING. Plug range has nothing to do with plug gap ,ignition does.

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