My first berkeley overhaul!
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My first berkeley overhaul!

  1. #1
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    Default My first berkeley overhaul!

    Well, after running my spectra 20 for about six years I decided to overhaul the pump. I am going to replace the intake being it has a good size crack in it and the fins are half gone! I think the past owners were crack heads and never stored it properly over the winters. Lots of debris under the floor and seats rotting out.
    OK, on to the good stuff I found today! Removed the bowl and it looks kind of hammered! Let me know if its ok to run or if I should replace it? Pics to follow! When I bought it the guy said he had sucked up some rocks and his buddy rewelded the impeller! Ya, great! Of course I have a new one to put in but when I went to take it off tonight, the nut was finger tight and so I removed the nut and impeller with my hands! The shaft looks good but I thought I would need a puller to get it off?
    Should the new impeller go on tight? Like a press fit? Kind of a fun project if you ask me! These pumps are so simple, and quick to take apart! Love it!

    my stuff 138 by corrie_beebe, on Flickr


    my stuff 137 by corrie_beebe, on Flickr

    my stuff 136 by corrie_beebe, on Flickr

    my stuff 135 by corrie_beebe, on Flickr

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  3. #2
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    It's not a press fit, it can be a little tight going on at times but they shouldn't need any real force going on, if it does stop and find out why.

    Bowl is damaged but can be restored, don't get carried away with a grinding tool if your doing it yourself. Pump looks decent no major issues from what I saw.

  4. #3
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    The bowl seal is installed backwards, and if using the aluminum nut for impeller, use thread locker on it, or it will be finger tight next time too. Does not look bad at all, should be strsight forward.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


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  6. #4
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    Thanks for the info! Glad everything is in good shape! I will just take the die grinder and do some minor buffing to the blades inside the bowl!

  7. #5
    "Mad" Member Jet Mad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    The bowl seal is installed backwards, and if using the aluminum nut for impeller, use thread locker on it, or it will be finger tight next time too. Does not look bad at all, should be strsight forward.
    I stripped a pump I recently purchased today, what a mission. I have the Berkeley Jet overhaul tool kit, and even with that I broke 2 x power handles trying to get the impeller nut loose. The reason was thread locker.

    The Berkeley manual states that 80 ft/lbs is the torque spec for the impeller nut, do you put thread locker on the aluminium nut only? What if you need to remove the impeller in the future, I ended up splitting the nut with a pencil grinder, took me about 2 hours

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  8. #6
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    taking a jet apart can be fun, they dont always cooperate. i put thread locker on all nuts, especially the aluminum ones. probably not necessary if it is a steel nut with nylon. a little heat will go a long way in removing the stubborn ones. i too have had to take a cutter to some that would not let go. usually an air impact of good strenght will hammer them off easier.

  9. #7
    Boat Nut sleekcrafter's Avatar
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    Jonny is correct.... some of the steel nuts, just dont budge. They can actually rip the threads from the shaft. Some times cutting the nut is the only way, removes the risk of damaging the shaft threads.
    Upper Midwest Power Boat Association
    DRAG BOAT RACING UMPBA #926


  10. #8
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    I guess I got lucky on pulling mine apart!
    Picked up my blasted pump parts today and now ready for some paint!
    Also ordered up some heavy duty sea going putty for the intake.
    Now to grind out all the old putty, cant wait!

  11. #9
    "Mad" Member Jet Mad's Avatar
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    Looking at the pics of your shaft, the tail end looks a bit worn where the bowl bearings run.
    The shaft I took out looks the same, I ordered a kit from Duane at HTP to fix it. I figured that due to the service intervals on the pump I get it fixed while the pump is open. Some pics of the shaft I took out.

    Today I am going to strip the pump that is in my Kona, and remove the motor. I am fitting a rail kit for the motor, install a stuffer in the bowl, have the shaft prepared for the inducer impeller, new SS "A" impeller that was detailed by Duane, install a pressure gauge on the bowl for intake pressure readings and fit an ultimate wear ring -really looking forward to that

    I will post some pics as I progress of before and after the rail kit install and preparing the pump.

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  12. #10
    Senior Member Brendellajet's Avatar
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    I wouldn't go sleeving that shaft just yet. Looks fine to me, but the true test will be to mic it or measure with calipers. Its probably well within tolerance. New bowl bushings may be in order though...
    "He is a lover, not a fighter. But he's also a fighter, so dont get any ideas."

  13. #11
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    I have new bowl bushings for my install, plus I stuck a nice s.s straight edge on the shaft and there were no gaps visible! I will however stick the shaft on my atlas lathe and polish everything up. Same with my pto seal area. I love getting to use the fun tools!

    On a side note, I see that my bowl seal was in backwards! I guess thats why it never held oil so I just ran with the plugs out!
    My overhaul manual is kind of lacking as far as detail goes. Is there any pictures or diagrams anywhere that show which way all the seals are to be installed? If I didnt know any better I would have installed the new seal the same way.
    Last edited by spectra 224; 04-23-2011 at 07:47 AM.

  14. #12
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    OMG! Just finished grinding out all the old putty!

    That is some tough stuff! Last time I worked with that kind of glue, I was wrenching on heavy lift helicopters! Now my shed/garage is a frickin mess!

    Now I need to find out who in this town deals with fiberglass and resin! Wish I had a tap plastics near by!

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