MSD timing retard setup
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MSD timing retard setup

  1. #1
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Default MSD timing retard setup

    Ok, so on the boat I have a 7al-2, msd billet distributor, msd coil, and a msd timing retard box with an 11* pill in it. I belive that's good for the 300 shot that the kit is jetted to. Anyways, I have a pushbutton on the steering wheel that runs back to a generic 12v solenoid on the back of the pass. side cylinder head. This solenoid is what gives power to the n20 solenoids. I want to wire in a WOT switch inbetween there, but that's a different story.

    Right now what looks to be the power wire to the retard box isn't connected to the relay, but appears that it will go onto the same terminal on the relay that the power to the solenoids go to. So in theory, if I hook it up like that...once I push the button for the juice, at the same time the solenoids activate, the timing retard box will get power and will drop the timing 11* ?
    Last edited by cordog009; 04-22-2011 at 07:41 PM.


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  3. #2
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Anybody?


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    Senior Member stoker2001's Avatar
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    not an expert by any means,but why couldnt you verify that the 11* retard is working with a timing light at idle,just turn the bottle and enrichment pump off and bypass any fuel safety swithes if so equipted..
    have someone arm and activate while you watch the timing pointer
    Whacker Smacker M/E #561 IHBA "first looser"champ 2006&2007&Sportsman Driver of the Year

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    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    That's a good idea. I just never have anybody around to give me a hand


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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cordog009 View Post
    Anybody?
    Cordog, no that wire from the msd has to go right to the solenoids 12v wire . When that wire is grounded it has no retard, when it goes ungrounded or see's 12v then you get the retard. When you wire it to the 12v wire that goes into the solenoid it see's ground through the solenoids coil when the solenoid isnt energized. If that wire isnt grounded or sees 12v either one, you will have the retard. In other words it doesnt take 12v to make it retard, all it has to do is not be grounded. Make sense?
    And you can verify that its working simply by touching that wire to ground and watching with a timing light. Simple.
    Last edited by Hass828; 04-24-2011 at 08:45 AM.
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    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    Msd has changed the way the retard is triggered it used to be done through a ground the way hass explained, on the newer stuff retard is activated by supplying 12v. What part number is your retard unit?

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    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cs19 View Post
    Msd has changed the way the retard is triggered it used to be done through a ground the way hass explained, on the newer stuff retard is activated by supplying 12v. What part number is your retard unit?
    The part # is 8972.


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    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    Thats an older unit but will work fine.

    Brown, orange and grey are your step retards, brown is step one so when you remove that wire from a ground it will pull timing. Hook that wire to your solenoid like mentioned earlier. You may be able to hook it up at the relay, do some work with a test light or meter and find out the simplest way to wire that up.

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    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Thanks


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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cs19 View Post
    Msd has changed the way the retard is triggered it used to be done through a ground the way hass explained, on the newer stuff retard is activated by supplying 12v. What part number is your retard unit?
    Hmmm Hadnt heard that they changed with the new ones. Thanks.

    Like I said Cordog, just put the whatever amount of retard chip in there you choose to run and use a timing light on the balancer, touch that brown wire to ground and then unground it while watching the light, you should see it move the proper amount.
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    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    Hmmm Hadnt heard that they changed with the new ones. Thanks.

    Like I said Cordog, just put the whatever amount of retard chip in there you choose to run and use a timing light on the balancer, touch that brown wire to ground and then unground it while watching the light, you should see it move the proper amount.
    They're now triggering retards by adding 12v to the step retard you are trying to activate, you can also ramp the timing in and out on some units.

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    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Thanks alot guys. Re-wiring for the nitrous is one of the last things I need to get done.


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    1977 Custom Sprint Jet wickedsanger's Avatar
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    There are a few different methods of wiring and testing to see if it works. If your unsure about what these guys are saying. Go to MSD's website and go to "instructions". Then type in 8972, and it will give you all info needed on how to wire it for different configurations. I noticed you said you were taking out 11* for a 300 shot. If thats a true 300 that you are shootin, that may not be enough. Would like to know a little more info. What motor, and whats initial timing, plate... fogger, what jets, spark plugs??? What these other guys are saying about the wiring is good. These dudes are pretty damn smart!!!. I run a sbc with NOS, and im usually around 14-16 total timing on a 350 shot.
    Wickedsanger... Gettin it done with a Small Block!!!!

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    Senior Member Hass828's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickedsanger View Post
    There are a few different methods of wiring and testing to see if it works. If your unsure about what these guys are saying. Go to MSD's website and go to "instructions". Then type in 8972, and it will give you all info needed on how to wire it for different configurations. I noticed you said you were taking out 11* for a 300 shot. If thats a true 300 that you are shootin, that may not be enough. Would like to know a little more info. What motor, and whats initial timing, plate... fogger, what jets, spark plugs??? What these other guys are saying about the wiring is good. These dudes are pretty damn smart!!!. I run a sbc with NOS, and im usually around 14-16 total timing on a 350 shot.
    I believe he's running a BBC, so depending on were he is at on initial that should be pretty close. I ran a 325 shot AND 17psi of boost from some turbos on my BBC and had the timing locked at 28-31 for over 10 yrs and never hurt a thing. But there are tons of variables like the fuel he is running,heads, camshaft, static compression, ect. So if its your typical 10-1 BBC with the cam from the top of the page and he is at 36 initial then that putting him at 25 which should be pretty conservative.
    "if we keep doing it the same way we always do..we will always get the same results"
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