Wedges
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 31

Thread:
Wedges

  1. #1
    "BEER BUDGET RACING" Bodean's Hammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Okmulgee, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    3,621

    Default Wedges

    I'm running a 4* wedge and a straight snoot. I'm going to take it out and try a 2*. I have a few questions:
    In theory this should put more down angle on the nozzle and help it launch harder? yes/no?

    Then once set it should lower the thrust angle and lift, helping the hull run dryer? yes/no?

    If this helps the fat girl pick up some I'll take the wedge out all together and see what happens.
    Last edited by Bodean's Hammer; 06-21-2011 at 01:59 PM.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member YumaJet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Yuma, Az
    Posts
    829

    Default

    do you have a inducer?

    In theory this should put more down angle on the nozzle and help it launch harder? yes/no? -trial and error kind of deal. but an inducer would help with a holeshot. i had a droop with 2* wedge down on my old daytona. after some head work, it launched hard and straight.

    Then once set it should lower the thrust angle and lift, helping the hull run dryer? yes/no? -it should
    boatless....

  4. #3
    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    LHC
    Posts
    6,570

    Default

    you have the snoot wedged up? do you have a place diverter or just a nozzle? what's the pin to pin angle of the snoot?

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    "BEER BUDGET RACING" Bodean's Hammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Okmulgee, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    3,621

    Default

    sorry guys, can't post from my phone anymore for some reason???


    Yuma, yes i put an inducer in it over the winter, it helped out a bunch!

    BP, yeah there is a 4* wedge between the bowl and the snoot with the fat side down. I do have a place diverter, and i'm not sure of the pin angle on the snoot. If i had to guess, I would say its whatever the "standard" is.

    Maybe this pic will help.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00788.jpg 
Views:	123 
Size:	88.2 KB 
ID:	120286  

  7. #5
    Senior Member TNYoungblood's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Clarksville, TN
    Posts
    5,104

    Default

    I would probley take it out all together and see what it will do . Then try the 2* and then try to flip it and see what it will do Never know till you try it
    WFLC The REAL #321 Kentucky Drag Boat Association 2016 NJBA 10.0 High Points Champ

  8. #6
    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    LHC
    Posts
    6,570

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bodean's Hammer View Post
    sorry guys, can't post from my phone anymore for some reason???


    Yuma, yes i put an inducer in it over the winter, it helped out a bunch!

    BP, yeah there is a 4* wedge between the bowl and the snoot with the fat side down. I do have a place diverter, and i'm not sure of the pin angle on the snoot. If i had to guess, I would say its whatever the "standard" is.

    Maybe this pic will help.
    a profile would be better. take a straight edge, hold it up to the bottom of the plate extended back past the nozzle, and make sure nothing will be dragging in the water when you remove the wedge(s). generally, the intake is set in the boat that will leave the pump angle at 4 degrees down. the standard snoot is 4* up angle, so it's back to zero compared to keel. so if you had an r nozzle, or stand ard nozzle, adding a 4* "up" wedge leaves the nozzle at 4* up compared to keel. about; you would need to check all that.

    but you have place diverter which allows you to set nozzle angle anywhere. if you were to remove the wedge, or wedge it down (keeping the nozzle above the plate angle), you lower thrust centerline, which can help get the boat on top at a lower speed than what it does with 4* up.

    the worst you can do is try it and find out if it works better or worse. i run a droop and i'll change the wedge from 2* up (slow) to 3* down (fast) as an adjustment to quicken the boat up or slow it down, depending on where i'm running. the worst thing that can happen is that, at top speed, you'll feel he boat get "too loose", moving around too much on the water. if the boat does that, slow down and raise thrust centerline, maybe 1* at a time, until it remains stable at top speed.... it's also helpful if you know exactly what you're nozzle angle is with the p/d...

  9. #7
    "BEER BUDGET RACING" Bodean's Hammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Okmulgee, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    3,621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bp298 View Post
    a profile would be better. take a straight edge, hold it up to the bottom of the plate extended back past the nozzle, and make sure nothing will be dragging in the water when you remove the wedge(s). generally, the intake is set in the boat that will leave the pump angle at 4 degrees down. the standard snoot is 4* up angle, so it's back to zero compared to keel. so if you had an r nozzle, or stand ard nozzle, adding a 4* "up" wedge leaves the nozzle at 4* up compared to keel. about; you would need to check all that.

    but you have place diverter which allows you to set nozzle angle anywhere. if you were to remove the wedge, or wedge it down (keeping the nozzle above the plate angle), you lower thrust centerline, which can help get the boat on top at a lower speed than what it does with 4* up.

    the worst you can do is try it and find out if it works better or worse. i run a droop and i'll change the wedge from 2* up (slow) to 3* down (fast) as an adjustment to quicken the boat up or slow it down, depending on where i'm running. the worst thing that can happen is that, at top speed, you'll feel he boat get "too loose", moving around too much on the water. if the boat does that, slow down and raise thrust centerline, maybe 1* at a time, until it remains stable at top speed.... it's also helpful if you know exactly what you're nozzle angle is with the p/d...
    OK, I'm going to put it all together to night and take those measurements. It wont be till the weekend before I can test it. I also drilled and tapped my suction houseing to get intake pressures, but thats for another thread.

  10. #8
    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Southwest corner AR
    Posts
    4,045

    Default

    To check your pin angle on the snoot! Take a tape and see how long the snoot is from flange to bottom hole leading edge! Then check the top length if the same you have a 0* If the top is slightly shorter you have the 4* pin angle! By the looks in the pic. I think you have the 0* snoot!

    If it is the 4* pin then I would try it heads up and see what it does then you may want to pitch it down 2* JMO!
    Last edited by Widetrack; 06-22-2011 at 09:11 AM.


    SOMEONE SAID YOU CAN'T TAKE IT WITH YOU! SO,IM BURNING IT UP ONE GALLON AT A TIME!
    WT

    WFL Crew!!!

  11. #9
    "BEER BUDGET RACING" Bodean's Hammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Okmulgee, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    3,621

    Default

    Wow 2* is alot. It doesnt look like much but once you get out there to the nozzle its a couple inches of down. I'm still above the plate, I took all the measurements like Bp said. Widetrack it is a 0* snoot. I dont think I could have just flipped my 4*.
    Last edited by Bodean's Hammer; 06-24-2011 at 06:55 AM.

  12. #10
    B1 Racing cs19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    6,523

    Default

    On something like this I'd be more concerned about the diverter settings or angles on the launch than the wedge, wedges are fine tuning for thrust height. Try it with different amounts of down off the launch, 3 degrees down for example till the boat is up and going then give it some up in the diverter. Once you get a starting point that's sorta working then fine tune the amount of down, how long you wait to give it up nozzle and how much up nozzle. This is the name of the game with the race boats that leave from a dead stop with a diverter, no different with the lake guys.

    Watch Pattymelts boat leave and that's what you want. We've been tweaking on it all year and it's deadly the way it leaves, the 2 most important things are running the least amount of down possible and when to hit the up. If you a measure a diverter at full down it's not uncommon to 15 degrees of down, that's way too much and eats up way too much time with the hyd. Unit to get to full up.

  13. #11
    "BEER BUDGET RACING" Bodean's Hammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Okmulgee, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    3,621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cs19 View Post
    On something like this I'd be more concerned about the diverter settings or angles on the launch than the wedge, wedges are fine tuning for thrust height. Try it with different amounts of down off the launch, 3 degrees down for example till the boat is up and going then give it some up in the diverter. Once you get a starting point that's sorta working then fine tune the amount of down, how long you wait to give it up nozzle and how much up nozzle. This is the name of the game with the race boats that leave from a dead stop with a diverter, no different with the lake guys.

    Watch Pattymelts boat leave and that's what you want. We've been tweaking on it all year and it's deadly the way it leaves, the 2 most important things are running the least amount of down possible and when to hit the up. If you a measure a diverter at full down it's not uncommon to 15 degrees of down, that's way too much and eats up way too much time with the hyd. Unit to get to full up.
    I've been playing with that, I've been leaving with the diverter all the way down, and going to level about the time the nose startes to set down. I'm thinking now that I have lowered the thrust angle a little I should be able to leave with the diverter level and maybe go one click up once it sets.

    I was really kinda looking for more stern lift, it would seem like my hull is running pretty wet for a tunnel. I dont think it will ever run as dry as yours CS due to the keel. Plus I'm just experimenting, would like it to be as nasty as it can be without dropping a bunch of coil to get it to the next level. Plus I'm trying to learn a little, this is my first jet boat.

    The intake pressure readings are probably going to tell the tell. I'm real curious to see what those are.

  14. #12
    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    LHC
    Posts
    6,570

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bodean's Hammer View Post
    Wow 2* is alot. It doesnt look like much but once you get out there to the nozzle its a couple inches of down. I'm still above the plate, I took all the measurements like Bp said. Widetrack it is a 0* snoot. I dont think I could have just flipped my 4*.
    correction; standard snoot is 0*, odd one is 4*.

    as cs noted, the next thing is to dial in your nozzle angle. you might want to add an up stop and a down stop, so you know exactly where you have the down (launch) angle set, as well as the up (running) nozzle angle. once you know what those are, you can wedge up or down, reset the nozzle angles to what they were, and go.
    you may want to get a 1* wedge, just to experiment with.

  15. #13
    "BEER BUDGET RACING" Bodean's Hammer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Okmulgee, Oklahoma, United States
    Posts
    3,621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bp298 View Post
    correction; standard snoot is 0*, odd one is 4*.

    as cs noted, the next thing is to dial in your nozzle angle. you might want to add an up stop and a down stop, so you know exactly where you have the down (launch) angle set, as well as the up (running) nozzle angle. once you know what those are, you can wedge up or down, reset the nozzle angles to what they were, and go.
    you may want to get a 1* wedge, just to experiment with.
    10-4

    Wildhair let me borrow a 1* and the 2* I put in it.

    I took the straight edge like you said, and measured it with the 4 in it and with the 2 and I bet there was a 2" difference at the nozzle, but still about 4" above the ride plate.

  16. #14
    Senior Member YumaJet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Yuma, Az
    Posts
    829

    Default

    take off the diverter and put a race nozzle on it and change the diameter of the nozzle to see what best suites your needs. since i didnt run a diverter, it was much easier to set it at the correct level and mash the pedal knowing i was going to go straight.
    boatless....

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95