Performance guys, -8 or -10 with no cooler?
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Performance guys, -8 or -10 with no cooler?

  1. #1
    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    Default Performance guys, -8 or -10 with no cooler?

    Ok, how many of you guys with performance mills (650+ HP) are running a -8 water lines with a single inlet and no oil cooler?

    What water and oil temps are you seeing while cruising around 3K and what temps are you seeing when pushing it hard?

    I'm starting to wonder if i should of ran -10
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    Resident Ford Nut Sleeper CP's Avatar
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    Just your water feed line off the pump to the engine?


    What size line do you have exiting the engine ?

    S CP

    "Dark Sarcasm"
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    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    everything is one size in and out -8. I know some people talk about -8 in and -10 out, no regulator, gate value, yadda yadda yadda but that's not really what I'm after.

    I just want to make sure that -8 is large enough for a performance mill.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
    I just want to make sure that -8 is large enough for a performance mill.

    I believe that it is, but is it running hot or you just want to make sure that it won't ?

    my built roller cam 472" never had an issue with a -8 feed and no oil cooler but you may find that you'll have to restrict the water flow...slow it down in the engine so the heat transfer is more efficent.

    S CP

    "Dark Sarcasm"
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    " A Government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have"
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    Senior Member VDRIVERACING's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sleeper CP View Post
    I believe that it is, but is it running hot or you just want to make sure that it won't ?

    my built roller cam 472" never had an issue with a -8 feed and no oil cooler but you may find that you'll have to restrict the water flow...slow it down in the engine so the heat transfer is more efficent.

    S CP
    I'm running a -16 and a cooler, but that's just me... Check you oil and water temp under a hard run and that will help you figure out where you stand. Check it while operating under the most wot you're ever going to make, 'cause that will be when you need it most.
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    Senior Member cyclone's Avatar
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    i run a -8 from the pump to a pressure regulator, -10 out of the regulator that splits into the stock water pump inlets at the front of the engine, and a single -10 ooutlet from the intake manifold dumping overboard. temp gauge barely moves with this setup. runs about 150 degrees all the time regardless of how hard i push it.
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    Senior Member Need4Speed77's Avatar
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    I run -8 in from the valve to the "T" the to the water pump inlets. Then I have 1 -10 dump line. I run a consistent 135 degrees with no issues.
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    Senior Member Pattymelt18's Avatar
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    Have you pulled the 3/8 pipe plugs on each side of the block and drained the water out if the block. Alot of times the block will get filled with sand and could be restricting flow to the rear cylinders. Also where are you taking water temp from. And is your gauges electric or mechanical.
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    Shaun posted a bit more info in the dyno section. His 230-240* oil temp at 3,000 rpm cruising just doesn't seem right.

    How many qrt oil pan?

    S CP

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    fast is the other half.
    " A Government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have"
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclone View Post
    i run a -8 from the pump to a pressure regulator, -10 out of the regulator that splits into the stock water pump inlets at the front of the engine,
    With having a psi regulator in the system do you just run your water valve wide open?

    S CP

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    Going fast is only half the fun ... what you make go
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    " A Government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have"
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    Senior Member Pattymelt18's Avatar
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    I read that also jon. But these are new coming problems which leads me to belie something is restricted or something is going away such as a gauge or motor as a whole
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pattymelt18 View Post
    I read that also jon. But these are new coming problems which leads me to belie something is restricted or something is going away such as a gauge or motor as a whole
    Well lets hope for the gauge...that would suck otherwise but as you stated he should remove the plugs and see in the engine is sanded.

    S CP

    "Dark Sarcasm"
    Going fast is only half the fun ... what you make go
    fast is the other half.
    " A Government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take away everything you have"
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    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    I pull water temp from the top of the manifold, right before the dump (the temp sending unit is before and lower than the dump). Yes this is a fairly new problem, I think part of the issue has to do with me not going through the pressure regulator this winter. Every time i go through it, there is corrosion and the screen normally has a bunch of crap in it. My water temps were only about 10* higher than normal. I was just curious if -8 was sufficient enough or if running -10 would be better.

    Cyclone, thanks for the reply. Your one of the fastest guys here on the boards so it's nice to hear from somebody with real experience and with a engine putting down some power!
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  16. #14
    Senior Member cyclone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sleeper CP View Post
    With having a psi regulator in the system do you just run your water valve wide open?

    S CP
    not water valve in the system. I see 22psi pressure at WOT, about 15 at cruise.
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