broken bow-eye what to do next
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broken bow-eye what to do next

  1. #1
    SOUTHERN HOATBOATER 78SPRINT's Avatar
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    Default broken bow-eye what to do next

    so putting the boat on the trailer i broke the already loose bow-eye on my 78 eliminator sprint. Now where to go next, with a bulkhead in the way do i cut it out enough to get it fixed or do i cut the top for a bow light? Of all the sprints that have found pics of none that i can find seem to have lights on them. the top of the hull is not flat as you can see in the pics. So where do i go from here, please give me some ideasClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	125546Thx in advance steve
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    Senior Member YumaJet's Avatar
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    same thing happened to my 73 southwind.



    you can cut it and fiberglass it. a bow light is probably the quickest way though.
    boatless....
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  4. #3
    Senior Member fourtznme's Avatar
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    Is there access through the bulkhead? Cut the other bolt on the eyelet and send the smallest person with some tool abilities. If it cant be reached I have seen it done where people have put a fake gas filler to get access to the bolts.
    Murrieta / Needles Marina Park
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78SPRINT View Post
    so putting the boat on the trailer i broke the already loose bow-eye on my 78 eliminator sprint. Now where to go next, with a bulkhead in the way do i cut it out enough to get it fixed or do i cut the top for a bow light? Of all the sprints that have found pics of none that i can find seem to have lights on them. the top of the hull is not flat as you can see in the pics. So where do i go from here, please give me some ideasClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	125546Thx in advance steve
    with a full width bulkhead...i would cut a nice neat rectangle hole in the middle & crawl thru & fix the bow eye...use a piece of wood & washers for the eye to go thru, so, it wont come loose again...you will also gain some storage space up front with the open bow ...i have mine that way...works great for getting stuff out of the way ...just sayin' my .02 cents
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  7. #5
    Member apollo18's Avatar
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    I like what Fast Rat said.. Thats the easiest and best bet. Not all boats have a bulkhead or need one. With a lil glass work you can also glass in the piece you cut out of the bulkhead. that's my .02 cents
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  8. #6
    Senior Member SoldHondaBoughtHondo's Avatar
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    I couldn't get to the one on my hydro even with the bulkhead removed. I ended up with a 2x2 and a snap on air ratchet hose clamped to the end and to go button hose clamped on, Plumbed the air to a blow gun to run it....Given the time i sent.....i could have probably drilled a hole big enough for a qtr. drive 9/16 deep socket, and fixed the hole in the same amount of time...
    I would be all about a bow light on your deal and if you don't like it plug the hole when you paint....that is if you can't get to it without an access hole in the bulkhead and some to crawl in.

    And i did end up with a bow light for the hydro...it goes on with a suction cup and i jammed 8 AAA ni-cads in it and it recharges off cigarette lighter.
    I have a suction cup run light for the air scoop and a hy-po spotlight, my g/f has expressed interest in 'playing on the lake under a full moon"
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  9. #7
    Red Blooded American The Doctor's Avatar
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    It may be a foregone conclusion but whatever you do, put a much larger backing plate inside the hull before installing the new stainless bow eye. The best fix is cutting the toe board out and sending someone very skinny (and non clostrofobic) up to the nose to tighten down the stainless nylock nuts down to your new backing plate so you don't have to do it again.

    Lastly, remember to float the boat as far up on the trailer as you can so you don't rely on that tiny bow eye to pull a couple thousand pounds up on the trailer.
    The best things in life aren't things!
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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Bought this Sanger a few years back heres how the former owner had approached that Delima (Sawzall)


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  11. #9
    TSUNAMI BOATS SUCK :( Sis Q Kid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Doctor View Post
    It may be a foregone conclusion but whatever you do, put a much larger backing plate inside the hull before installing the new stainless bow eye. The best fix is cutting the toe board out and sending someone very skinny (and non clostrofobic) up to the nose to tighten down the stainless nylock nuts down to your new backing plate so you don't have to do it again.

    Lastly, remember to float the boat as far up on the trailer as you can so you don't rely on that tiny bow eye to pull a couple thousand pounds up on the trailer.
    I concur with the dotor, had it happen to me just recently, thankfully i just mounted the spare
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  12. #10
    SOUTHERN HOATBOATER 78SPRINT's Avatar
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    thanks for all the ideas, i guess i will try the bulkhead first. the only problem with that is the bulkhead is still 3 ft. away from the boweye, so i need to cut a pretty big hole in the bulkhead to get my head and shoulders through, or get a really skinny guy with long arms. If the top of my hull was flat it would be a no brainer i would just cut it for one of those flip up bow lights cause like hondo said my wife has expressed interest in a midnight ride also.
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  13. #11
    Member hollbrow's Avatar
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    Default Uggghh...

    I had to do the bulkhead cut on mine to access the bow eye when I re-did the hull- I went to the nearest marine dealer and bought a used aluminum 'bezel' frame about 14" x 22" that I could fit through and cut my hole the right size for it then just fitted that into the hole after I was done- looks nice and I have bow storage now. My hull had a center stiffener fully tabbed in under the bulkhead almost all the way to the nose- I crammed my butt in there and after a bunch of wiggling and cursing and becoming one with the hull I was able to reach it to get it bolted up and tightened down with a new much larger backing plate. X2 on the stainless nylon locknuts- don't want that bastard coming loose again. I also sealed it with resin from the inside while I was in there. Almost got stuck in that damnable confined space- breathing fiberglass dust and resin. Got glass all over me from where I had been grinding and doing repairs. It sucked for sure.
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  14. #12
    Senior Member SoldHondaBoughtHondo's Avatar
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    I dug out some pics....just in case ya thought i was funnin ya about the air
    ratchet on a stick.Click image for larger version. 

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    This is w/bulkhead removed. It's 11" from bottom of dash to the floor and it's not even in-frame yet. Socket has slot cut into it to be able roll onto stud because the deck was so close. And yep, pokin a hole in the deck would have been way easier....i guess i was in need of a challenge that day.lol. I actually had the boat hanging on it's side and i could stand in the sponson and barely touch that 1/2 bulkhead.
    My challenge might pay off someday...it might be worth a hun to someone to tighten up a couple of nuts....or maybe i'm a little nuts

    Oh....and it's not the nuts backing up, mine had ny-locks on it already...I think it's the bow eye getting yanked around and compressing material
    Last edited by SoldHondaBoughtHondo; 08-01-2011 at 11:24 AM.
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  15. #13
    Senior Member wizard612's Avatar
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    Before you do the blukhead cutting check with Shoemaker. He might remember if they foamed the bow on those boats. It would be a B...ch to cut open your bulkhead and find a blob of foam covering everything you need to get to.
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  16. #14
    I'm No Expert Shaun's Avatar
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    I'd cut a hole in the bulk head, make sure you leave enough material so that the bulk head is still strong. If there is foam up there remove it. On my boat the foam was old, oil soaked, and heavy. Find somebody skinny enough to get up there, then replace the foam, or do what i did and buy a couple 4 packs of those cheap orange life jackets and stuff them up there. I wouldn't cut a hold in the deck!
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