Beating a dead horse.... Water plumbing?
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Beating a dead horse.... Water plumbing?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Lildave's Avatar
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    Default Beating a dead horse.... Water plumbing?

    I've searched and searched, and found the 10 million different opinions that all seem to work. I'm fixing to re-plumb my whole setup to get rid of the ugly copper tubing the previous owner thought looked good. I have some questions...

    I have OT Bassett Headers, BBC, Dominator Pump (don't know if any of that matters)

    I think I would either like to run a water bypass system to reduce pressure, or the 4 port thermostat housing to keep engine temps constant.

    I was at the lake last weekend and saw a neat setup where the fresh water came in the bottom of the engine by the oil pan in those two drain plugs on each side. The owner said it helped keep oil temps cooler. Is this true? What are the pro's and con's to this?

    If you run the 4 port tstat setup, do you still need a pressure regulator or a bypass regulator?



    Basically what it comes down too, is I want to run a really nice looking setup that will keep the engine in its operating temp that it needs to be in...... It's a lake boat that is never going to see a drag strip. It gets the occasional heads up lake race, but that's it. mostly cruising.


    Can someone please tell me what is the BEST way to plumb one to keep pressure down, heat up to where it needs to be, and be reliable.


    Filter on the feed? Yes? No?

    Thanks for any help guys!

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  3. #2
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    I run a pressure regulater and a bypass t-stat (four hole). Works great no problems.

  4. #3
    southwindsforsure justsquirtin's Avatar
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    i run a 4 port thermo housing set-up on my ford no problems=no pressure relief / ot headers

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    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    I have used a pressure regulator before, but don't have one on this boat. All of mine have been plumbed the same way. Hard line comes into the boat to a ball valve, then braided hose to the front where it goes into a T and two hoses going to the water pump bosses on the block. Out of the thermostat housing I had a ball valve on each outlet, one to the dump line and one to the header ball/spring valve. I got rid of my Bassett headers so I plugged that one line off at the housing.

    I just added a pipe T fitting after the ball valve @ the transom to add a water faucet valve so I can run the engine on the hose easier.


    1984 Youngblood TX-19 SOLD

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    Senior Member Alter Ego's Avatar
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    Ok, dave, i can tell you the way that i had the TX done, i had a bypass regulator, which can be run to a four port thermostat housing if needed or it can be routed directly to an overboard. i had mine going overboard because i always had engine temp, and ran my headers dry. water came in, through the bypass, regulated water went to a "T" and in through the water pump mounting location 9 i ran my last water set up like Tim and dales, and didnt notice a huge difference. one unregulated overboard water line for the spent heated water. for you with your headers, you would need to run two exits with ball valves, one overboard, and one to the header t-valve. sometimes you will have to regulate the exiting waste water to build enough pressure to open the header t-valve. i have the regulator that was in the TX, just something to keep in mind if you decide to go that route.

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    I have the same questions lildave does and I am also running BBC/Berk. I will be totally rewiring and replumbing the boat. Idk about lildave, but if you guys have any pics of your set ups it would help me out some. Don't mean to jack the thread, just looking for the same help

  9. #7
    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    A water bypass kit to control pressure in the cooling system is a good idea. They can be run with or without the thermostat system; makes no difference. One controls pressure, the other controls temperature. With wet headers, you need two exits from the stat housing. One to the Basset T-Valve and one with a gate valve in it for the overboard water. Route your water from the bypass to the water pump inlets on the front of the block. Do not enter the water into the drain plug holes at the bottom of the block by the pan. The head gaskets and head watering holes are designed to make the water entering through the water pump ports move from the front of the block to the rear of the block to create an equal cooling system through the heads. Putting the water in through the drain plug holes can starve the front cylinders for cooling water and cause problems.
    Duane HTP

    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/Wa...ass%203714.JPG

  10. #8
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Here's a commonly used diagram:



    1984 Youngblood TX-19 SOLD

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    Senior Member Lildave's Avatar
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    So if I done this would it be a good setup?

    Relief valve overboard.... Then run to water pump holes and bottom of a 4 port.... Run top two ports of stat overboard.... Use a port on the front of my intake with a ball valve to feed the headers.

  12. #10
    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lildave View Post
    So if I done this would it be a good setup?

    Relief valve overboard.... Then run to water pump holes and bottom of a 4 port.... Run top two ports of stat overboard.... Use a port on the front of my intake with a ball valve to feed the headers.
    That one is from Bassett so it's a trusted setup.
    Here is a link to some pics and info on the thermostat setup. http://www.performancejet.com/ttjetb...necooling.html
    Last edited by cordog009; 08-27-2011 at 09:09 PM.


    1984 Youngblood TX-19 SOLD

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    Senior Member DuaneHTP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lildave View Post
    So if I done this would it be a good setup?

    Relief valve overboard.... Then run to water pump holes and bottom of a 4 port.... Run top two ports of stat overboard.... Use a port on the front of my intake with a ball valve to feed the headers.
    This will work, but Why are you leaving out the Basset Valve? That is the most important part of the system.

    Duane HTP

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    Senior Member Widetrack's Avatar
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    Watts pressure valve! Setup the system in the old school way one line going in and two out of the thermo! One to a dump and the other to headers! (with Tee-Valve) Set the presure going in and adjust the header water then set the dump valve for heat and forget it! Ready to float and squirt!


    SOMEONE SAID YOU CAN'T TAKE IT WITH YOU! SO,IM BURNING IT UP ONE GALLON AT A TIME!
    WT

    WFL Crew!!!

  15. #13
    Senior Member hotbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Widetrack View Post
    Watts pressure valve! Setup the system in the old school way one line going in and two out of the thermo! One to a dump and the other to headers! (with Tee-Valve) Set the presure going in and adjust the header water then set the dump valve for heat and forget it! Ready to float and squirt!
    X2
    WFLC


    2011 Performer SS
    built by Scott Seastrom.

  16. #14
    Senior Member Lildave's Avatar
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    Dwayne sorry I overlooked that obvious part. Yes it will be in there Inline after an on off valve coming from a port on the intake manifold. Is that cool?

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