??Best way to equilize water out headers??
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??Best way to equilize water out headers??

  1. #1
    S&S
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    Default ??Best way to equilize water out headers??

    I have a 79 Rogers jet boat with 454, berkeley jet, bassett o/t headers. Can't figure out why there is more water coming out one of the pipes than the other. not trying to start a plumbing thread, I've gained alot of insight reading through all of the threads on that subject, and I'm sure she is plumbed correctly. I have no other issues (high block pressure, overheating, temp too hot/cold, nothing). Just don't know why the water coming out of pipes is not equal. On one side the water/mist "comes in" before the other side and mist dries out before the other side. I'm talking sometimes like a 3-5 second difference. Once I'm up to speed, water/mist is equal as far as I can tell. If there are any threads on this subject, just list them please.

    I have found a few ideas of how to fix the issue, but don't know the pros/cons of them
    1.Ball valves right before each of the spider lines.
    2.Install "jets" in the AN fittings at the spider lines.
    3.Make one side of hose from Bassett T shorter or longer.
    4. Any better ways to fix???????

    Water is plumbed:

    In
    In from pump to 1/2 gate valve (always wide open) ~~ 1/2" hose
    Then to a tee, with both sides going to tees installed in water inlets on front of motor ~~ 5/8" hose
    Then both continue to top ports of Hardin Marine 4-port thermostat ~~5/8" hose

    Out
    Out bottom 2 ports of thermostat both to 2 overboard dumps (no valves) ~~ 5/8" hose

    Header Water
    1/4" ball valve off water port top of intake manifold ~~ 1/2 hose
    To Bassett T (that I put 2 SS washers in to increase pressure) Because water was still misting out of pipes at idle, even if water was cut way down on inlet from intake manifold (almost off).
    Then from Bassett T to spider lines on headers. ~~ 1/2" hose


    Thanks for any ideas.
    Last edited by S&S; 11-27-2011 at 08:00 PM.

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    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
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    Wtf???????????????????????????
    No Fool Like A Old Fool is there?

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    S&S
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVILFORCE View Post
    Wtf???????????????????????????
    I agree, maybe i'll try to edit that mess???

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    Default Pressure drop from first "T"

    Read what you posted. 1/2" hose, split to 4, 5/8ths hoses..... Huge pressure drop right there. Try 3/4 hose to the lower "T", to your 4, 5/8ths feed hoses... 3 to 5 seconds difference isn't a big deal as long as the water gets there...Also, regulate one of the dump hoses to create a little back pressure in the engine. With the pressure drop you're seeing in the "in" side, you may have air pockets, which aren't good....
    Ray
    PS At least I think I read what he wrote correctly...
    Last edited by Moneypit; 11-27-2011 at 08:11 PM.
    LOUD BOATS SAVE LIVES

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    S&S
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    I routed the lines like the paperwork that came with the by thermostat said. 2 lines into front water ports, then continue to top of housing. I see what your saying if the bypass part of the thermo were not working. But my understanding is that only one side takes in water at a time. It either goes in the block thru the front water ports or "bypasses" out the housing to the 2 dumps?? Not trying to argue, just trying to understand. Thanks for the idea.

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    S&S
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    I was running 5/8" coming in from pump and block pressure was spiking at about 30 PSI on gauge @ WOT. The 1/2" in for the first part seemed to fix that spike.

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    Cas
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    are the lines from the Bassett T to the headers the same length?

    Personally, I'd abandon the header line coming off the top of the intake as it might be getting an air pocket for a few seconds. I'd plumb it like this-



    it works real well

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    Default is the "T" level?

    I had the same issue and I noticed that the basset "T" was not level. When it opens the water will go towards the low side until there is enough water to fill up the high side. There is also some fittings that connect to the header water lines that have a very small hole in them, to only allow a small amount of water to the headers.

    I just left the "T" the way it was, but I dont think that there was a 3-5 second difference in mine.

    Good luck,

    Chris

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    S&S
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    Thanks for the ideas. Great diagram. I will definitely move the line for the Bassett T to come off the the main water coming in. For the most part boat is plumbed EXACTLY as the diagram shows, except for that. Man I've tried everything so far as far as making sure the Bassett valve is level, zip-tied to other lines to keep it that way, lines from the tee the exact same length. I know I'm real close to getting it perfect. I think most would be happy with the way it is right now, I just want to make sure both pipes are getting same amount of water ALL THE TIME.

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    Cas
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    here is a picture of how I originally did mine-


    make sure the header water is tapped in before the main valve to the engine so the adjustments are completely independent from each other. I adjusted the header water by backing the boat into a lake with the lines disconnected from the header water lines (after the Bassett T). Start the engine with the little header valve in the off position, bring the rpms up to about 1800 and start turning the little valve on slowly until you see water coming out. As soon as you see the water, stop turning the valve and let the engine go back to idle, the water should stop flowing to the headers. Double and triple check the setting by bringing the rpms back up to make sure it comes on about 17 to 1800 and then it shuts off about that same rpm, adjust if necessary.

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    Senior Member N2GLOCK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cas View Post
    here is a picture of how I originally did mine-


    make sure the header water is tapped in before the main valve to the engine so the adjustments are completely independent from each other. I adjusted the header water by backing the boat into a lake with the lines disconnected from the header water lines (after the Bassett T). Start the engine with the little header valve in the off position, bring the rpms up to about 1800 and start turning the little valve on slowly until you see water coming out. As soon as you see the water, stop turning the valve and let the engine go back to idle, the water should stop flowing to the headers. Double and triple check the setting by bringing the rpms back up to make sure it comes on about 17 to 1800 and then it shuts off about that same rpm, adjust if necessary.
    Thanks for posting this pic. I recently bought a set of headers for my Rogers and I wasn't sure on how to get water to them. This pic helps alot.

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    About 500' AGL MudPumper's Avatar
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    I wouldn't worry about a 3 to 5 second difference of when the water comes in and dries out. Sounds like it's working pretty good otherwise.

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    just put a set of .100-.120 restricters in the two fittings between the hoses and the header injection lines and it will work fine. restricters are available from Rex Marine or you can make your own with a set of 7/16 fine thread set screws drilled out and tap the # 8 fitting going in the injecter line to install.

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    S&S
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    Yeah that seems to be the best way. That way if I have to adjust side to side, I can do so by just putting in different sizes on either side.

    Thanks for the ideas

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