Motor mount
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Motor mount

  1. #1
    Cole SS cole ss's Avatar
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    Default Motor mount

    At what point do you change the way you mount your motor? I have a 20' Cole ss with a 454. I will be running a 450hp motor. The way it is mounted now is with motor mount bolted to stringers with 4 bolts. Bell housing is attached to pump with aluminum u- bolt. Thanks

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    Senior Member SuperJet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cole ss View Post
    At what point do you change the way you mount your motor? I have a 20' Cole ss with a 454. I will be running a 450hp motor. The way it is mounted now is with motor mount bolted to stringers with 4 bolts. Bell housing is attached to pump with aluminum u- bolt. Thanks
    What you have is a three point mount. Not as strong as a 4point or rail kit, I am changing my boat to a 4 form a 3 this winter. with the 4/rail kit you are able to put more hp in the motor and have the boat be stronger and more positive.
    Quote Originally Posted by cordog009 View Post
    Nitrous is like a really hot chick with an STD...you know you wanna hit it, you're just afraid of the consequences

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    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    I just did mine today....Good time to check pump, shaft, joints...ect.
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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cole ss View Post
    At what point do you change the way you mount your motor? I have a 20' Cole ss with a 454. I will be running a 450hp motor. The way it is mounted now is with motor mount bolted to stringers with 4 bolts. Bell housing is attached to pump with aluminum u- bolt. Thanks
    Like said this is a classic 3 point "production" type mount system , probably adequate for your cruiser and 450 hp, of all the mounting systems the cleanest,strongest , easiest to rig and most able to support increased power are the rail kit systems if your plans include more mods and future increases you may want to give thought to a rail system IMO Tom

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    I have run and built quite a few boats with the three point mounts above 650 HP. My own Eliminator Daytona ran near 1000 HP with a 3 point mount for about 4 years til I sold it and lost track. Before I bought it, it had a blown BBChevy in it for years. Yep, three point mounts. Eliminator, builder of top quality, go fast, expensive boats didn't see the need for the 4 point mounts on hot rod boats, do you really need them? Answer: if the stringers are solid, don't worry about it, if thy are soft or rotted, fix the problem. If you like bling, waste your money on a rail kit, they look impressive, even if you don't need one. Myself, I would rather spend the cash only on what I need, and spend the rest on making it fast. I love to beat blinged boats with a sleeper! Its what I live for. Most of the time, peeps that recomend that you NEED somthing, are the ones that happen to have one for sale. I own a complete boat shop, AND engine building facility (we build mostly aluminum headed, ported, roller cammed stroker motors, and many blower/nitrous motors too), but I don't see the need to push something you don't need. BTW I have them in stock, but I talk most customers out of them. Let the screaming begin! TIMINATOR
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    Senior Member Mash on It's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TIMINATOR View Post
    My own Eliminator Daytona ran near 1000 HP with a 3 point mount for about 4 years til I sold it and lost track. Before I bought it, it had a blown BBChevy in it for years. Yep, three point mounts. I love to beat blinged boats with a sleeper! TIMINATOR
    1000 hp BBC blower motor = a sleeper?

    ( I guess I'm reading the wrong book)

    Full stringers? Go 4 point or rail kit. 1/4 stringers? find a full stringer hull.

    Just my $.02
    Daniel
    Mash on it
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    '76 Eliminator 21'

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    Member lenker's Avatar
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    I have a similar setup. will this give unwanted stress on the pump and intake?
    Brett Lenk
    Missinglenkmotorsports.com

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenker View Post
    I have a similar setup. will this give unwanted stress on the pump and intake?
    Consider that the front bearing cap in a typical 3 point mount set up (and whats below it) on a "Berkeley" type jet application ends up being sole rear weight support,"cushioning" and positioning control for the rear of the engine assembly. The cast bearing cap alone is attached to the front of the jet suction with 4 5/16" bolts, a tiny machined register and then bellhousing "clamp" that then the engine sets atop a 3/16 thick rubber insulator.... it would have to give pause for concern in any extreme situation Tom

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    tintingsandiego krusn56's Avatar
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    I started to get some vibration at idle and when I first would stomp on it. When I removed mine yesterday the bolts weren't to tight and the insulator was kinda mashed... It has a four point now.
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    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Consider that the front bearing cap in a typical 3 point mount set up (and whats below it) on a "Berkeley" type jet application ends up being sole rear weight support,"cushioning" and positioning control for the rear of the engine assembly. The cast bearing cap alone is attached to the front of the jet suction with 4 5/16" bolts, a tiny machined register and then bellhousing "clamp" that then the engine sets atop a 3/16 thick rubber insulator.... it would have to give pause for concern in any extreme situation Tom
    if the two front mounts are close to the standard motor mount holes on the block, there's very little "weight" being supported by the front bearing cap. it should be balanced so the greatest amount of weight is on the motor mounts and the stringers.

    having said that, with a 3 point, there's only a couple of bolts through each stringer to hold the engine. taking up, maybe, 8 square inches of each stringer if a healthy backing plate is used. if the stringers are strong enough, should be fine with well more than 450hp.

    but, with 4 point rails, usually the rails sandwich the stringers over a 3 or 4' length with bolts every 10-12". it should be fairly obvious that, with a rail kit, the weight of the engine is distributed over a much greater area, then it would be with a 3 point. that said, the 3 point should be just fine as long as there is no weakness around the area of the stringers where the motor mounts bold through. especially if it's an older cruiser that used 2x8s for stringers.

  13. #11
    Member lenker's Avatar
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    http://www.cpperformance.com/images/.../620-91150.jpg

    This is the deal I have. Thought maybe it was putting to much weight on the pump.. Although I guess that's what it was designed for. Good- bad??? Always wondered if it would be better to switch to a rail kit.
    Last edited by lenker; 12-23-2011 at 10:57 AM.
    Brett Lenk
    Missinglenkmotorsports.com

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    Senior Member hihosilver's Avatar
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    mine has no stringer and a 3 point so I added some alum rail and tied in a brace to the pump with a 489 @550 hp, want to do stringers and rails for next motor @750hp, tried to add pics but won't let me

  15. #13
    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenker View Post
    http://www.cpperformance.com/images/Product/large/620-91150.jpg


    This is the deal I have. Thought maybe it was putting to much weight on the pump.. Although I guess that's what it was designed for. Good- bad??? Always wondered if it would be better to switch to a rail kit.
    same thing i have in my cruiser, same thing tons of other boats have. works fine. but.... we still have to use a reverse rotation starter (works fine, but can be a pita locating parts if you have to rebuild it), can't service the driveshaft without pulling the engine, can't remove the pump for service without pulling the engine. with a rail kit, normal rotation starter that you can replace from anywhere, easy to service the driveshaft, and easy to pull the pump if necessary.

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