Hyd. or manual diverter?
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Hyd. or manual diverter?

  1. #1
    Renegade jet tunneljet's Avatar
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    Default Hyd. or manual diverter?

    I have a 19' cheyenne with very little room inside. I also have a manual diverter and the handle takes up alot of precious space. I was wondering what your opinions are on the hydraulic version. Good or bad or 50/50. Is there alot of maintenace involved.

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    The Man cordog009's Avatar
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    Most people go from hydraulic to manual, not the other way around usually. Just alot less trouble with a manual and you always know what position it's in without buying and adding the extra trim gauge.

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    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cordog009 View Post
    Most people go from hydraulic to manual, not the other way around usually. Just alot less trouble with a manual and you always know what position it's in without buying and adding the extra trim gauge.
    Or you could put a stop on the diverter where the sweet spot is so it won't go past that spot when you go up with the diverter. With a manual diveter you have to much going on, ask HBjet.
    Keep the hyd set up.

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    Senior Member GAWnCA's Avatar
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    I just went from manual to hydraulic and it's true, you really don't know where it's at unless you get the trim gauge but, I like not having to muscle the divertor handle around. But, then I'm getting old and love things that do the work for me.

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    Renegade jet tunneljet's Avatar
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    How is the reliablity of the hydraulic setup? I don't want to replace something that works, with something that I have to fix all the time

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    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    i had a manual for one year, until i broke the handle off at the base. i've had nothing but hydraulic for the past 18 years, and wouldn't have it any other way. installed correctly, hydraulic is trouble free. playing with it for awhile, you'll get a good feel for nozzle position. a stop is pretty much essential for racing.

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    A couple of things I would do if your going with the Hydraulic set up:
    1)Ditch all the plastic hydraulic lines and go with stainless lines and fittings.....
    Way cleaner set up and no risk of lines coming apart. Ive heard of plastic lines kinking, melting, and being pulled off by peep and kids trying to get in the boat. The last thing you want is a hydraulic fluid all over your interior. I had a local shop make up some custom length lines and also picked up a pair of stainless bulkhead fittings to go through the transom cover for a nice clean setup.
    2) I personally would ditch the cheap plastic hydraulic pump mount. The mount will work but it just didn't look strong to me. That pump isn't the lightest thing and to be supported by a plastic piece just looked like it'll stress the reservoir too much imo. I made a mount that the pump sat on and then bolted to the transom.
    3) If your going to run the switch on your steering wheel, get your steering shaft drilled or buy one drilled out and hide your wiring. Way cleaner setup than the ol telephone cord. You can also get the steering wheel with the spokes machined for the switch too.
    Ive seen a couple other ways of trim switch mounting locations such as using a foot switch and I have seen a switch mounted under the seat, to the side down under your legs. I really like that setup cause it was hidden and actually easy to use.
    Im not running a trim gauge and I dont really think you need one. You can feel where the sweet spot is pretty quickly. Even if I had a gauge, i'd prolly still just go by feel.
    Set up correctly, the hydraulic diverter should give you years of trouble free service. Its a little more work than the manual setup, but you gain space (which it sounds like you need) and you have actually more adjustability than a manual diverter. (not that it really matters too much)
    Last edited by BustOuttAnuttaThouzy; 05-18-2008 at 11:59 AM.

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