Tips for installing Hydraulic Place Diverter
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Tips for installing Hydraulic Place Diverter

  1. #1
    S&S
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    Default Tips for installing Hydraulic Place Diverter

    Gonna be installing a hyd place diverter this weekend. Looking for do's and don't that some of you may have run into in the past. Things that might make it a cleaner install or ways to make it operate as good as it can. Going on a 18' Rogers with a Berkeley JG (split bowl). Maybe some pics or ideas on where to run the hyd lines or where to put the hyd pump. For now just going to use the black plastic lines for hydraulics and the other stuff that was supplied with the unit. I have the setup that has the buttons on the steering wheel, any wiring tips?? It all looks pretty straight forward, but I would hate to not ask and them find out a better way of doing things AFTER I'm done installing it.

    Thanks for any ideas

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    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Make sure you have a good ground and power connection. Straight to the battery is best.

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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    I used the plastic lines at first also with no problems. I now have braided on the outside (#4) and the plastic on the inside.
    Ground pump straight to the battery.

    I also installed the steering wheel buttons.

    (Here)
    Place Diverter Trim Switch - CP Performance

    I never ran the dash switch, and am glad because I would be steering with one hand quite a bit if I had.

    Our Miller is kind of radical for a lake cruiser (I know, nothing like some of the upper end boats out there!!)
    But at 80 MPH I really wouldn't want to be reaching for a dash switch.

    One other "must have" IMO is an indicator.
    Place Diverter Trim Indicator Kit - CP Performance

    Both are pretty straight forward installs, with easy to follow instructions.

    Here is the sending unit for the trim gauge. The cable makes a hard turn inside the transom, but has never been a problem in 2 years.






    Here is the penetrations. I used one of the bulkheads for the plastic lines for the trim cable penetration. Just spot faced the cover first, then drilled and tapped the hole for the pipe threads on the plastic bulkhead fitting.


    Here is the assembly at the pump, with the indicator cable connection.
    Tommy
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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    You can see the pump placement in this pic.

    TIP!!

    Leave the 4 wood screw a little bit loose until you have the pump in place, then tighten them up!!

    Tommy
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
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    Senior Member cave's Avatar
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    I run a bosch 30amp style relay so I can get 12volts direct to the Bennett pump. Definitely ground to the battery. Bad grounds kill MSD box's and Bennett pump!

    You can also buy the female connection end for a cleaner wiring job.

    If you stay with the plastic tubing, NAPA has the same stuff for a 1/4 the cost of what anyone else sells it for.

    If you plan to run the plastic tubing for a while pick up a few unions at home depot. Sucks to loose hydraulics when a tube leaks. Don't run them under your weep holes under your headers, if applicable. Those hot drops will loosen that tube in a short distance. BAM tube burst.

    Or you could get one of these from Banderlog, If he still making them. Simple to hook up.

    http://www.banderlog.com/products/po...owerRelay.html
    Last edited by cave; 12-24-2011 at 08:14 AM.
    Takin it home

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    AKA OhOneWS6 Last Mohican's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cave View Post
    If you stay with the plastic tubing, NAPA has the same stuff for a 1/4 the cost of what anyone else sells it for.
    Good info there. I looked all over trying to find that line local. Everything I found did not meet the pressure rating.

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    S&S
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    Thanks for the replies. Just getting up and around, letting it warm up a little outside its probably still only around 30* right now out there. I'll be going out and starting on the PD here in a few. But I'll be checking back in throughout the day/weekend for any more ideas.

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    Screamin SeaMonkees Schi-502's Avatar
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    same stuff, diferent boat...
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    S&S
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    Thanks for the pics everyone. That's the kind of stuff I was hoping people would post up. I'm getting there on the install. Finished up outside the boat yesterday. Moving to the inside, mounting the pump and up/down switch on the steering wheel today. If all goes good, should be ready for a test run sometime tomorrow. I'll be checking back later. Thanks again.

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    I run a bosch 30amp style relay so I can get 12volts direct to the Bennett pump. Definitely ground to the battery. Bad grounds kill MSD box's and Bennett pump!


    Got any pics of the way you have this set up?? Or explain where/how to wire this up. Looks like a good idea in a small package, that won't drain the bank account. I understand the ground straight to battery, but does this take the place of those little diodes that came with the PD or go somewhere else in the wiring?? Wiring is kind of like smoke in mirrors for me. I was a truck driver, not an electrician, when I was growing up.

    Thanks,
    Steve

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    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    no. the diode has to be wired in exactly as the instructions tell you to. if you have any confusion regarding the wiring, call tim place. he's very helpful.
    i've run the hydraulic p/d for 22 years on 3 different boats. i've always run the ground to the block, always used poly lines, never used a relay, and never had a problem. that's not to say you can't do these other things, but if you just follow the instructions to the letter, it'll work just fine.

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    I use the poly lines inside the boat but ran the stainless on the outside. The stainless lines on the outside are actually 1/4" water supply lines that you can find at just about any home improvement center. I got the needed 1/4" brass fittings and put it all together for less than $20.00 at the time. Even though the diverter operated just fine, I installed the Banderlog relay a few months after I did the initial install and can say it made the operation a whole lot smoother and faster.



    It surely isn't as pretty as some out there but it works great.

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    Yea I've talked to Tim. Really nice guy. Your right, I should set it up exactly like the instructions say First. And if there are no issues, leave it alone. Still curious about how to set up the relay though.

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S&S View Post
    Yea I've talked to Tim. Really nice guy. Your right, I should set it up exactly like the instructions say First. And if there are no issues, leave it alone. Still curious about how to set up the relay though.
    Incorporating a simple relay system for your Diverter pump (or for that matter an Electric fuel pump) will transfer a solid electrical signal from the battery over to the "pump" with less opportunity for current drop. Older Jet Boats , because of thier lengthy wire harness design tend to have sometimes expirience a significant voltage drop from the battery to the ignition switch and then all the distance back to the wire connector block at the rear of the engine and thus to the accessory (pump) Suggest you check all with a digital multimeter during your install and contrast that to available voltage Tom

    this relay and harness was from Summit but this could be done with an auto parts store generic headlamp relay

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