Engine Plate Question
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Engine Plate Question

  1. #1
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    Default Engine Plate Question

    This is on my 78 Bahner I am getting ready to pull the engine and repaint it and deal with the bilge (flow coat), my question is what should I do with the front engine plate don't understand what someone was trying to do, looks like someone put a lot of work into going around the water inlets on the front of the motor,, even cut out for the plug on the front of the head I also want a alt.
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    Senior Member Need4Speed77's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghiafreak62 View Post
    This is on my 78 Bahner I am getting ready to pull the engine and repaint it and deal with the bilge (flow coat), my question is what should I do with the front engine plate don't understand what someone was trying to do, looks like someone put a lot of work into going around the water inlets on the front of the motor,, even cut out for the plug on the front of the head I also want a alt.
    I would trim a lot of it off. No need for that big plate there. Then polish, powder coat, or paint it to match the motor.

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    Senior Member H20MOFO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghiafreak62 View Post
    This is on my 78 Bahner I am getting ready to pull the engine and repaint it and deal with the bilge (flow coat), my question is what should I do with the front engine plate don't understand what someone was trying to do, looks like someone put a lot of work into going around the water inlets on the front of the motor,, even cut out for the plug on the front of the head I also want a alt.
    The water inlets are kewl. I would consider adding some rails....I have never seen nothing like that. On the left side it looks like there is one bolt barley holding on at the bottom....could jut be the pic and I am not seeing everything. How about a pic of the back side of the ft. plate where it bolts.....I dont quite know what I am lookin at.
    Another Hot Boat refugee

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    A whole lots of xtra material there, unsure what they were thinkin ? Heres ours

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    A whole lots of xtra material there, unsure what they were thinkin ? Heres ours
    I'm going to buy one of your's for my TX19 that i'm building, just didn't want to redo everthing on this one, I'll trim it up should I leave the material around the water inlets or just trim it down low?

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    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    The water inlets are kewl. I would consider adding some rails....I have never seen nothing like that. On the left side it looks like there is one bolt barley holding on at the bottom....could jut be the pic and I am not seeing everything. How about a pic of the back side of the ft. plate where it bolts.....I dont quite know what I am lookin at.

    It has two bolts in it but doesn't look good on that bottom bolt.

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghiafreak62 View Post
    I'm going to buy one of your's for my TX19 that i'm building, just didn't want to redo everthing on this one, I'll trim it up should I leave the material around the water inlets or just trim it down low?
    Personally Id lose the support over the top of the timing covers and trim it back to just above the two front bolts on either side of the timing cover (assuming its 3/8 plate?) Tom

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    Some guy obnoxious001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Personally Id lose the support over the top of the timing covers and trim it back to just above the two front bolts on either side of the timing cover (assuming its 3/8 plate?) Tom
    If he did that, he would have two separate pieces, right?

    Ghia,,depending on how much you want to clean it up,, it may almost be worth your time to buy a new rail kit from Jetboatperformance. I think he can customize it to the width of your stringers, and then you just have to adjust the angle of the engine to align properly with the pump.

  11. #9
    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    i've seen several that incorporate the water inlet bolts into the engine plate. using 8 bolts to tie the plate to the engine is going to add more rigidity than four, although four are routinely used. neither the single rail under the damper, nor the rail over the top, are providing any structural integrity for the engine. those square upper outside edges aren't doing anything structurally either.
    what i can't tell is how the plate connects the engine to the stringers. that looks awfully weak, and also looks like the bottom edges of the plate are resting on the hull????
    whatever you do, i wouldn't cut it up or throw it away. if nothing else, you can use it as a template since the bolt holes are in the right place.

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghiafreak62 View Post
    It has two bolts in it but doesn't look good on that bottom bolt.
    ghia, looking at this again I see that the "mount feet" originally designed for cast aluminum 4 point style mounts have been used versus setting on lengthwise rails,they (the feet) were designed to fit into the original front and rear cast mount plate by virtue of a groove or rectagular cast inset (example below) ,when used the way yours are they put enormous stress on the feet attaching bolts (bottom) IF you intend to modify and re use your existing plates you may want to ad some rails and corner blocks Tom


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  13. #11
    Senior Member bp298's Avatar
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    here's an example using ONLY the water inlet holes for the engine mounts, posted by hud on the cfw thread. i realize it's a flat, but the concept is still the same. with a little power, there's still torque applied through those mounts....



    just to be clear, i'm in no way suggesting there's anything wrong with tom's rail system. just that there are multiple ways to do this, and they can all work well. a key to it is how the plates mate to the stringers. if you're using the old 4 point system, it was fine, but it was designed for the engine mount to sit on top of the stringer mount (an old one i had included little rubber cushions), not bolt front to back. if there's just a piece of aluminum angle bolted through the stringer, and that plate is just bolted through the piece of angle, i'd seriously re-think that method.
    your plate can work ok, but re-think how the thing is fastened to the stringer. if nothing else, you could install "short" rails, maybe 18" long, on each stringer, attach some feet in the right location and attach the plate to the feet, slightly modifying those edges of the plate. there's plenty of options to use what you have, make it a bit more solid, clean it up a bit...
    Last edited by bp298; 01-02-2012 at 11:06 AM.

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