? hook to a hose to tune or not?
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? hook to a hose to tune or not?

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    Default ? hook to a hose to tune or not?

    Ive encolsed a picture of this hose hooked to my pump. Is this where i can hook a water hose to my boat and tune it out of the water? Will this deprive my jet of water? There are a couple ball valves on the water lines too, one on each side of motor. They are in the open position. My boat coughs a little if i nail it. Could be timeing, and id like to check things out at my shop. Get it dialed in before i put it in the water again. Another thing is will a mechanical pump keep up with these dual 4barrel carbs? (Im dubtful) It looks to be a large one and real new, but im not sure its keeping up. Kinda serges the power at high rpms running. I know the timeing/distrib needs to be check out first. And then deal with dialing in fuel/carb issues. How can i do this on land in the comfort of my shop?
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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 79tahati View Post
    Ive encolsed a picture of this hose hooked to my pump. Is this where i can hook a water hose to my boat and tune it out of the water? Will this deprive my jet of water? There are a couple ball valves on the water lines too, one on each side of motor. They are in the open position. My boat coughs a little if i nail it. Could be timeing, and id like to check things out at my shop. Get it dialed in before i put it in the water again. Another thing is will a mechanical pump keep up with these dual 4barrel carbs? (Im dubtful) It looks to be a large one and real new, but im not sure its keeping up. Kinda serges the power at high rpms running. I know the timeing/distrib needs to be check out first. And then deal with dialing in fuel/carb issues. How can i do this on land in the comfort of my shop?
    In the Case of a Panther Drive becasue if its design (not the rest) its unlikely you will do any damage assuming theres clearance betweekn the body of the jet (which comprises the Impeller wear surface) and the impeller blades AND theres no significant runout in the shaft bearings and bushings ,attach a hose to the fitting in your photo and start the engine BEFORE you turn the hose also shut off the hose before the engine and BTW you will not likley get any water thru your header injectors , call if you need help Tom `

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    Default fuel pump

    good to know about the hose. and since the water wont be going to the headers i assume the problem there is overheating them. discoloring, pos cracking them, right? How about that mec fuel pump? What do you recomend? Is it eneugh? Someone thought it was. I didnt build this thing, but id like to think at one time or another it ran good with this set up. IDK. I trust you guys alot more than the seller.
    Last edited by 79tahati; 01-15-2012 at 01:03 PM.

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    Senior Member EVILFORCE's Avatar
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    While on this topic I have seen guys put the water hose on the water dump side. That puts the water into the motor and then out the pump keeping it wet. The only thing I see bad about that is the chuncks of rust also go out thru the pump. What you think of that Mr. Tom?
    No Fool Like A Old Fool is there?

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    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVILFORCE View Post
    While on this topic I have seen guys put the water hose on the water dump side. That puts the water into the motor and then out the pump keeping it wet. The only thing I see bad about that is the chuncks of rust also go out thru the pump. What you think of that Mr. Tom?
    Seen this as well Rick , but we always keep the water going in the direction it flows normally

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    If you are just going to set timing and idle. Take it to the boat ramp.

    You can fill the engine with water and run water into the pump with the female end of a water hose if it's too cold to go to the ramp. Disconnect that hose and put your water hose on it.

    If it coughs wehn you stab the throttle make sure the accelerator pumps are pumping. Maybe needs more pump discharge.
    If For Some Reason I Do Something Worthy Of Recognition. God Provided The Ability And Deserves The Credit.


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    Default re

    I will be checking that too infoman

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    Horsepower sells Engines lefty's pride's Avatar
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    engine load is a big part of set up you may get it right at the shop and find it is not when you hit the water get it close and head to a ramp that is slow so you dont piss anybody off. what is the fuel press if its there there is enough fuel.
    "Horsepower sells Engines but torque wins races."
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    those who never win and never quit are idiots"
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    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    If you look at the floor on the right side you can see 2 red valve handles. This is the water line from the Jet.
    In between the valves is the hose connection. (with a cap on it)

    When running on the lake, these valves are both wide open for straight flow.
    When I hook the hose up with the driveline out, I just shut the water off to the rear. (jet)

    If the driveline is in, I first turn on the hose with both valves open, then when the engine is full and water is coming out the dump, I pinch the engine water down some and put most of the water through the pump. Then start the engine.
    I don't run it very long or at any big RPM's if the driveline is in.



    One thing to remember, as I look at your hose, that 50 cent hose clamp is all that is keeping your boat from sinking!

    I almost lost my first Miller years ago running it with rubber hose and clamps. I just happened to look back and saw water pouring in while under way.
    Was able to shove the hose back on and paddle to shore. Never did find the clamp.
    Last edited by thatguy; 01-17-2012 at 08:04 AM.
    Tommy
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
    "So as through a glass, and darkly
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    Many names, but always me."

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    Quote Originally Posted by thatguy View Post


    One thing to remember, as I look at your hose, that 50 cent hose clamp is all that is keeping your boat from sinking!

    I almost lost my first Miller years ago running it with rubber hose and clamps. I just happened to look back and saw water pouring in while under way.
    Was able to shove the hose back on and paddle to shore. Never did find the clamp.
    X2 on the hose clamp. Make sure that yours is ALL stainless steel. Looks like the screw is just plated steel.

  13. #11
    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpkardell View Post
    X2 on the hose clamp. Make sure that yours is ALL stainless steel. Looks like the screw is just plated steel.
    In addition, that looks like a plain garden hose or washing machine barbed hose end attached to the hose.

    Lots of boats run just fine with rubber hose, but that hose end and hose clamp have to go!
    Do yourself a big favor and change that hose fitting to something more reliable.
    The boat you save may be your own!
    Tommy
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
    "So as through a glass, and darkly
    The age long strife I see
    Where I fought in many guises,
    Many names, but always me."

    Gen. George S Patton

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    Important!!! Make sure you close down the inlet valve after you do your tune. You should only be running 20psi max. into the engine. You don't want to blow a head gasket with to much water pressure. If no pressure gage, close it down all the way, then open 1 turn. Run it on the lake and keep an eye on your engine temp gage and open up 1/2 to 1/4 turn at a time and run it to find the right engine running temp.

    The water dump valve is for creating back pressure so water comes out of the headers.

  15. #13
    Living in a cage of fear thatguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cp562 View Post
    Important!!! Make sure you close down the inlet valve after you do your tune. You should only be running 20psi max. into the engine. You don't want to blow a head gasket with to much water pressure. If no pressure gage, close it down all the way, then open 1 turn. Run it on the lake and keep an eye on your engine temp gage and open up 1/2 to 1/4 turn at a time and run it to find the right engine running temp.

    The water dump valve is for creating back pressure so water comes out of the headers.
    I ran that way for years with out any trouble, but have changed it up.

    I now run the inlet wide open, restrict the dump, and use a pressure dump valve overboard. (It can also be seen in the above pic, as well as the dump restrictor valve on the T housing)
    I feel that restricting the inlet in any way is a negative, and can lead to air pockets in the heads.
    Just my opinion.
    Tommy
    Quote Originally Posted by Rexone View Post
    Tommy please remove all Jimsplace quotes from your sig and don't put more back. He doesn't like it and it is against the rules. Thank you.
    "So as through a glass, and darkly
    The age long strife I see
    Where I fought in many guises,
    Many names, but always me."

    Gen. George S Patton

  16. #14
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
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    IF one feels the need or neccesity to run thier rig out of the water , a simple "pit bucket" like this this can be used just about anywhere (for a short time) consists of some basic hardware store pieces and a 500 GPH 12V bilge pump


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